Died. Cranks, but no start

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1955moose

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Most fuel pumps in tank that have gone out on me, were recently after filling up. Don't know if it's just coincidence or not. I do know wrestling with a full tank is no fun. I did the one on my 86 Mustang, I drained off around 10 gallons or so, the silly mechanic at my work, did my 89 Lincoln. He didn't bother draining off some of the fuel, and he rocked the tank lowering it, splashing his work shirt big time. He wasn't a happy camper.

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Gregg Eshelman

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Most fuel pumps in tank that have gone out on me, were recently after filling up. Don't know if it's just coincidence or not. I do know wrestling with a full tank is no fun. I did the one on my 86 Mustang, I drained off around 10 gallons or so, the silly mechanic at my work, did my 89 Lincoln. He didn't bother draining off some of the fuel, and he rocked the tank lowering it, splashing his work shirt big time. He wasn't a happy camper.

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100% of the in tank fuel pumps I've had die were right after filling the tank, especially after running around for a while with really low fuel. Many of these pumps depend on the fuel for cooling with the pump at least partially immersed. Some use an open cell foam sleeve around the pump motor to wick up fuel when it's really low.

So on a nice hot day, been running around on fumes for a while. Then you pour in 20 gallons of gasoline at 65F, that's going to thermal shock the pump motor.
 
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DD31

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Well update time, the shop i took it to replaced the crank sensor and then couldn't get it started.... said they need to call in a specialist.... super
 

stamp11127

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Well like the old Dragnet TV show....just the facts Ma'am.

Fuel Pressure is: need psi readings
Impulse signal from crank sensor: Y/N
Impulse signal from cam sensor: Y/N
Signals indicate timing between cam & crank is correct: Y/N
PCM firing injectors: Y/N
PCM firing coils: Y/N

It's so easy a caveman can do it.......but you just need the correct tools today.
 
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DD31

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lol. nothing yet. Their specialist is supposed to check it out today, so we will see. I'm almost to the point that I'm going to have it towed back to my house and work on it myself. Or strip it down and sell it for parts. One of those two :)
 
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DD31

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UPDATE. Crank Sensor.

Apparently the first one they used came from NAPA and was determined bad by the 'specialist'. The specialist got an OEM sensor and also replaced the wiring pigtail for some reason.
 

stamp11127

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If the connector was bad that it required replacement none of the replacement sensors would "work" until the electrical connection was fixed. There may have been nothing wrong with the original crank sensor. Seeing that it was 11 years old it is a good investment to replace it before it would quit anyway.
Next question - how did they connect up to the existing wires? Solder and heatshrink, twist the wires together and electrical tape them or use the wonderful butt connectors.
 
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