07 A/C not working.

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Jacob Garff

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I’ve got a 2007 EL limited. A/C stopped working about a month ago. Fuses all good, diode went bad, replaced it. AC clutch now engages and pins the compressor. However, the air does not cool off. I checked the AC charge level and it is up to the pressure it needs to be. Could it possibly be plugged in the line somewhere? Is there an in-line screen somewhere that I can check?
We have had issues in the past with the compressor and it came apart. The dealer did not flush it, but told me to take it in to get that done. I did, but I’m kinda doubting that they actually did.

If there is a thread already up on this, please post the link. I’ve looked but can’t find anything.
 

bobmbx

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I’ve got a 2007 EL limited. A/C stopped working about a month ago. Fuses all good, diode went bad, replaced it. AC clutch now engages and pins the compressor. However, the air does not cool off. I checked the AC charge level and it is up to the pressure it needs to be. Could it possibly be plugged in the line somewhere? Is there an in-line screen somewhere that I can check?
We have had issues in the past with the compressor and it came apart. The dealer did not flush it, but told me to take it in to get that done. I did, but I’m kinda doubting that they actually did.

If there is a thread already up on this, please post the link. I’ve looked but can’t find anything.
Check to see if your AC system uses an orifice tube. They can clog up and stop the system from cooling.
 
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Jacob Garff

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Check to see if your AC system uses an orifice tube. They can clog up and stop the system from cooling.

Where would that be located? Thanks in advance.
If it’s the plastic piece that sits behind the firewall that houses the heater core and ac, with a nipple to drain it, it’s free.
 

stamp11127

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According to Rock Auto your 2007 uses expansion valves not the orifice tube.

When you checked the system pressure, what was the ambient temp and the pressure reading you got?

You can't diagnose an ac system without knowing the high and low side pressures while it is running.
 
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Jacob Garff

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According to Rock Auto your 2007 uses expansion valves not the orifice tube.

When you checked the system pressure, what was the ambient temp and the pressure reading you got?

You can't diagnose an ac system without knowing the high and low side pressures while it is running.

I’ll have to take it up to the shop and check actual pressures tomorrow. What I was looking at today was a “do it yourself” kit from the parts store. We were up in the mid to high 80’s today.
 

TobyU

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Many people misread the gauges on cans and think they are charged when they are not.

You need to know your low and high side pressures. Hold the rpms at 1500 and see if the clutch cycles on and off.
If so its is most likely low.
You should be at 28-38 on the low side at 1500 rpms with the fan on high and set to max and recirc if possible.
The clutch should cycle rarely and typically should stay on all the time.

You might just be 10-12 oz low.
 

stamp11127

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If you can bring the gauges to the Expy while the system and engine are cold you will be able to read the static pressure on the system. This is a rough estimate of how much refrigerant is in it. It will usually run 2-3 lbs higher than the ambient temp if the charge is real close to factory spec. You read both the low and high sides. You will also be able to see if the system has equalized since it hasn't been run. The low side gauge will have a finer scale to read the pressure.

Once you have the static pressure turn the system on max, blower on high. Make sure the cooling fans are running also. You should hear the compressor clutch engage and the gauge readings start changing. Let the system run for 10 minutes then record the low and high side pressures. If the high side pressure nears 350psi turn the system off, no need to risk lifting the safety on the compressor.

Don't ever use refrigerant that has sealer in it. That crap ruins the recycle machines. You can use the cans that have dye in it without problem though.

Cans and gauges - they run around $23 depending on where you buy it. A good set of Master Cool gauges cost me about $150 a few years ago. Which do you think is more accurate?
 
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Jacob Garff

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A6CC80F1-51CA-45DB-99DA-F24DC186B176.jpeg CB1CA247-37E8-4A6D-B935-19CA0E6049DF.jpeg
If you can bring the gauges to the Expy while the system and engine are cold you will be able to read the static pressure on the system. This is a rough estimate of how much refrigerant is in it. It will usually run 2-3 lbs higher than the ambient temp if the charge is real close to factory spec. You read both the low and high sides. You will also be able to see if the system has equalized since it hasn't been run. The low side gauge will have a finer scale to read the pressure.

Once you have the static pressure turn the system on max, blower on high. Make sure the cooling fans are running also. You should hear the compressor clutch engage and the gauge readings start changing. Let the system run for 10 minutes then record the low and high side pressures. If the high side pressure nears 350psi turn the system off, no need to risk lifting the safety on the compressor.

Don't ever use refrigerant that has sealer in it. That crap ruins the recycle machines. You can use the cans that have dye in it without problem though.

Cans and gauges - they run around $23 depending on where you buy it. A good set of Master Cool gauges cost me about $150 a few years ago. Which do you think is more accurate?

It was 85 when I hooked it up. We ended up recharging the whole system, but it still isn’t putting out cold air worth a crap. When it was in recovery mode, it didn’t even pull out a pound worth of refrigerant. We refilled it with 33 oz of refrigerant (because that’s what the specs I found say it takes, seems a bit low to me though), but like I said, it still doesn’t cool worth a dang. I’m simply frustrated and don’t know what to do.
 

stamp11127

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Pulling out that low of refrigerant indicates a leak. Did the recovery unit perform a leak test?

Low side pressure is too high, high side pressure is about right.

How much oil did it pull out? Have you added any oil in the past or this recharge?

First item to check is the txv (expansion valve). You'll need to be connected to the gauges for this. If you haven't run the system you can get the static pressure and note the ambient temp first. If you have run the system, connect the gauges & run the system for a few minutes. Shut off and observe how fast the high and low sides equalize. Normally it should be slow. If the txv is stuck open it will equalize quickly.
Another next thing to check is the airflow over the evap. Check all hvac filters for clogging. When we run across dirty evaps, we clean them with Simple Green sprayed into the plenum through the vents and the fan inlet. Make sure the drain is clear first and don't be stingy with the spray.
 
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