A/C is warm

stamp11127 said:

Don't worry about the oil, you shouldn't have had a large amount come out.

This link is applying refrigeration test procedures to automotive systems. The ir guns aren't accurate for measuring the line temps.

http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/heat-load-test-orifice-tube-system/

Click to expand...

About two ounces of oil and dye came out. It was clean pretty clean no sludge, floater, crap or metal. Color is amber as opposed to the clear that went in.

I have to get some welding done late today.

Specs call for 14oz of oil on front & rear system and we usually cut that back 25 to 50%. The amount that came out won't hurt.
To be on the safe side if the compressor starts making a racket turn it off quickly.

stamp11127 said:

Specs call for 14oz of oil on front & rear system and we usually cut that back 25 to 50%. The amount that came out won't hurt.
To be on the safe side if the compressor starts making a racket turn it off quickly.

Click to expand...

My crapsman multimeter has temp setting with wire probe.

Compressor sounds a little bit louder but not making a racket. May be that I still have the inner fender off and never really notice.

Ran out and looked at condenser and it looks fine. No bugs, leaves, pine needles, dirt, mud or degris nothing at all, Tranny and oil coolers also look the same.

Truck is washed at least once a monthand i mean at least once a month on average 2-3 times.

System Diagram:

What next?
Add refrigerant?

Your meter should give you an idea of the temps but may not be as accurate as the pipe clamp type. Still enough to calculate ballpark superheat & subcooling amounts.

I'm curious about the temps your going to get.

stamp11127 said:

Your meter should give you an idea of the temps but may not be as accurate as the pipe clamp type. Still enough to calculate ballpark superheat & subcooling amounts.

I'm curious about the temps your going to get.

Click to expand...

Going to warm up the truck haven't ran it today. Let it warm up for ten minutes. Heater lines are blocking the AC lines to EVAP. worse case I will be using one of the vent thermometers.

Took Vent Base line temp reading:
A/C Thermometer - Thrown away
Crapsman Multimeter - Is off don't trust it. (never have used in this setting before)
IR Thermometer - Way out of calibration
Meat Thermometer - Working I assume
AC Thermometer - Working I assume

Temps:
Ambient - 93*
Vent - 78* (both thermometers)

Nope, you have to measure the refrigerant temps in and out of the evap and condenser on the line. Air temp doesn't mean anything with this.

stamp11127 said:

Nope, you have to measure the refrigerant temps in and out of the evap and condenser on the line. Air temp doesn't mean anything with this.

Click to expand...

Took a random base line temp reading on high side line (nothing to do with Heat Load Test):

• Crapsman Multimeter - 100.6*
• AC Thermometer - 125*

stamp11127 said:

Nope, you have to measure the refrigerant temps in and out of the evap and condenser on the line. Air temp doesn't mean anything with this.

Click to expand...

Temps:

• Vent - 78* (both thermometers)

HEAT LOAD TEST: Taken with thermometer held with long needle nose pliers
Line Temps at firewal EVAP:
Top: 160* (+/- 2*) Acumulator line to EVAP
Bottom: 160* (-1*) Orifice line to EVAP

Line Temps at CONDENSER:
Top: 115* (+/- 1*) between condesoor and HP sensor
Bottom: 123* (+/-1*) between condesoor and line split

• Condensor coils are clean.
• Shroud is intact and not broken
• Fan intact no broken blades
• Fan cluct work (1/4 turn free spin)
• System no longer overcharged
• We known air is in the system
• System is low on charge compressor is running

Possibilities

• Restriction in condenser coil—sludge
• Too much oil
• Mechanical restriction due to pinched tube - Unlikely

OIL SAMPLE


Condensate now dripping at rear now that we are over 90* today.

No refrigerant added yet.

The evap superheat test should show no change in temp between inlet and outlet according to the link I posted. Yours does agree but seems high. All the systems I've dealt with so far have had super cold lines to the compressor, even to the point of being uncomfortable.

I'm questioning why it is gaining heat from the condenser to the evaporator though. It may be picking up engine heat since it is still in the gas state.

The condenser should be tested at the line connections on the condenser. Right now those readings are indicating an airflow problem there. Your not getting enough heat removal to change the refrigerant back into a liquid in the condenser. If you can get a shop fan that moves a bunch of air, place it in front of the radiator and measure the temps again and see if they have a wider spread.

Just thinking outside the box now - if the condenser is partially plugged it will not be as efficient as one that isn't and not condense the refrigerant as well or not at all. To see if that is happening you can use your ir temp gun and measure temps across the condenser - left to right and top to bottom. The inlet side should be hotter than the outlet side.

stamp11127 said:

The evap superheat test should show no change in temp between inlet and outlet according to the link I posted. Yours does agree but seems high. All the systems I've dealt with so far have had super cold lines to the compressor, even to the point of being uncomfortable.

I'm questioning why it is gaining heat from the condenser to the evaporator though. It may be picking up engine heat since it is still in the gas state.

The condenser should be tested at the line connections on the condenser. Right now those readings are indicating an airflow problem there. Your not getting enough heat removal to change the refrigerant back into a liquid in the condenser. If you can get a shop fan that moves a bunch of air, place it in front of the radiator and measure the temps again and see if they have a wider spread.

Click to expand...

Test locations:
Firewall

Condenser: