Blown Spark Plug on 2001 Expedition w/ Triton 5.4L

New to forums in general, so sorry if I'm posting this incorrectly. I have an 01 expedition that has blown a spark plug. I threaded a new plug in, and replaced the ignition coil which was destroyed when the plug blew. It has been driving fine for a little over a week now, but I can only imagine it's going to blow out again at some point.

I have determined that the Calvan 38900 repair kit is my best option, but I dont have all the tools to do the job myself. Trying to find out what kind of pressure rating I'll need on my air compressor to both bottom the piston, and to successfully blow out all the metal shavings from the cylinder?

Welcome to the site, work smarter, not harder. Use the balancer bolt to turn the crankshaft to the position you need it. Coat the tap with gobs of grease to catch the metal as the threads cut the head. The Harbor Freight bore scope is a cheap alternative to inspecting the cylinder once you are finished. Just make sure it fits in the hole.

Check the reviews on Amazon before buying that kit. Most on here have used the Timesert kit but be aware there are multiple sizes in case the repair should also blow out.

Ford dealers use the Timesert. I used it and it worked fine for well over 100K miles. Even changed the plug years later with no problem.

I too have used the timesert kit which I bought. 2 times on this motor and blew 6 on the motor previously. Which was before I found out about the Timesert at a cost of $ 589 ea. @ the stealership.Ive even loaned out the kit. If you have a 99-' 02 and are planning on keeping your vehicle I highly recommend getting one. I have over 150,000mi on mine.
The kit cost $400 with 5 inserts. Could've bought brand new Trickflow heads for what I spent at the dealers. First time it took me 2hrs to do 2nd time 45min. Use lots of grease on the tap.

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I have the Calvan kit. Works great for me. Iv done all my 5.4s I've owned. I don't wait till it blows i just do all 8 holes with the kit each time I've bought one. About 5 5.4s over the years. All had well over 200k before getting rid of them. I have never had am issue with the kit or the stainless inserts. Once they are there they stay. Also have changed plugs many times after and never had one come out. Seems to work for me. Plus that kit Works if u have already had a insert blow.

Taurean said:

New to forums in general, so sorry if I'm posting this incorrectly. I have an 01 expedition that has blown a spark plug. I threaded a new plug in, and replaced the ignition coil which was destroyed when the plug blew. It has been driving fine for a little over a week now, but I can only imagine it's going to blow out again at some point.

I have determined that the Calvan 38900 repair kit is my best option, but I dont have all the tools to do the job myself. Trying to find out what kind of pressure rating I'll need on my air compressor to both bottom the piston, and to successfully blow out all the metal shavings from the cylinder?

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Don't get a head of yourself. They don't always destroy all the threads. I had one that blew out on a trip right after pulling into a rest area and letting it idle for about 6 minutes.
I was surprised I could still see the 3.5 or so threads that is all they have in there.
I pulled injector and coil and drove to the closest parts store, bought a plug and borrowed another extension and put it in.
Been in there untouched for 4 years now.

I also had one blow out and just put the new sparkplug in and a coil pack. That was three years ago and Ten thousand miles. We have taken it out of state three times since then with no problems

The biggest reason for first edition spark plugs blowing out is under torquing of the plugs on replacement. If you just lightly snug them with a ratchet, they'll spit out like a summer watermelon seed. There's just not enough threads! The missing necessary threads are a joke from Ford, but we won't go into that. Use a 3/8 drive torque wrench, and snug em down to 21-23 ft lbs. There is a special torquing socket you can buy online. Normal tightening with a ratchet on other cars isn't even an issue, this one it is. The plugs survive 100k from the factory, they torqued them before engine install. It always kills me how the rich, or the power full get away with crap like this. The British did it for years, and said it's sufficient! We put up with it. Anybody own an Austin Healy, or Triumph? You know what I speak.

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Fordtechmakuloco on youtube has a video on his recommended spark plug torquing technique for the 5.4l, as well as a video on installing an insert. Six weeks ago I replaced the plugs on my 2002 5.4l Expedition using his technique. Some of the plugs I removed felt little more than finger tight. It's been speculated that a small number of threads in the head is the reason for the low torque specification but according to this document you only need to engage six threads at most for a strong connection and I believe the head has that.

Mr_Neutron said:

Fordtechmakuloco on youtube has a video on his recommended spark plug torquing technique for the 5.4l, as well as a video on installing an insert. Six weeks ago I replaced the plugs on my 2002 5.4l Expedition using his technique. Some of the plugs I removed felt little more than finger tight. It's been speculated that a small number of threads in the head is the reason for the low torque specification but according to this document you only need to engage six threads at most for a strong connection and I believe the head has that.

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Many of the lousy heads have only 3.5 threads I the holes. I have counted them on many ford heads. A little over 3 spirals or steps of threads is all that is on there. 5-6 should be the minimum. Every spark plug should have at least 3/8 inch if threads and I would prefer at least 1/2 inch. There are rules of thumb for how long of threads for x diameter of bolt size but that is usually assuming like Fastener material and often in Steel.
On an aluminum head with a Stihl spark plug, I want more not less.
The only thing you don't want is threads below in the alone head where the steel plug goes that are unthreaded because the plug is too short. That builds up lots of carbon an allows a good place for it to grip.
Ford made a big mistake on many of those threads and then made a big mistake on the design of the later 3 valve plugs also.
It's almost as if they didn't bother to have any input or consult anyone that had any basic engine building experience.
They were more concerned with their new style plug design then they were the basic physics of fastening them into the head.