JuniorExp03EB
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I just replaced O2 Sensore bank 1 sensor 1. and i think it affected my cats. how do i diagnose that? heat gun?
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Clogged Cat
- Thread starter JuniorExp03EB
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TomB985
Well-Known Member
How many miles since he replaced the oxygen sensors? Did you replace the upstream or downstream sensors?
What are your symptoms? If low power, remove your upstream sensors and drive to see if the concern gets better. If no change, the problem is not your converter… If you have more power, the converter is restricted in the excess pressure is venting through your oxygen sensor ports.
What are your symptoms? If low power, remove your upstream sensors and drive to see if the concern gets better. If no change, the problem is not your converter… If you have more power, the converter is restricted in the excess pressure is venting through your oxygen sensor ports.
rwengr
Member
I dealt with this problem on a Ford escape which has 3 converters. If you have a clogged converter it will hardly run. Higher the rpm, the worse it gets. It may not idle too bad. Back pressure will probably loosen exhaust manifold nuts or something else. Ugly noise because you are bypassing the muffler. Only way to be sure is remove exhaust and shine a light inside it. If it looks like gravel instead of a honey comb, it's done. Shake the converter. Nothing should rattle around. I had one break off on my Jeep. I guess if head of your 02 sensor is missing it could clog it. If you swap out converter I suggest replace exhaust manifold gasket cause you need to re-torque the nuts anyway. Don't be surprised if manifold studs have broken off. Be prepared. In my opinion, exhaust system work is hard.
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OP
OP
JuniorExp03EB
Full Access Members
is changing the cats diy or take to muffler shop ?
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1955moose
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Doing exhaust work at home can be tough or easy. You'll need to spray the studs and nuts well ahead of removal with pb blaster or equivalent. You'll also need a high heat source, like oxygen/acytelene torch or at least a good propane one. Also have sharp drill bits and easy outs, in case of broken studs. Truth be told, if you've got a good shop to do it, let em!
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Aside from being illegal per federal regulations, now your driver's side has more exhaust back-pressure than your passenger side. A converter is not very restrictive, but it is more restrictive than a straight pipe. And if one side was really "falling apart", then the other can't be far behind. Since the two engine banks now "breathe" differently, the correct fuel mixture and ignition timing for each bank will be slightly different. The best the ECM can do is "average", which means that neither side will be exactly correct. Removing the driver's side converter (not advised) would equalize the pressures. The ECM may, or may not be able to compensate. Correct back-pressure is part of an engine's overall design. I am guessing that Minnesota doesn't have annual vehicle inspections? A mechanic or muffler shop would face a large fine for removing a converter.my pass side upper was falling apart inside. I cut it out and put in a piece of flexy pipe. It was a $7.00 fix.
nope, no more inspections here. And actually its running great now. The honeycomb had come loose and was rattling around inside. It was a cheap quick fix. It went along with a $25 dollar muffler. Eventually I will cut out the other one. Its now drive it till it drops mode. the rocker panel rust is awful on it. If i could find some good replacements i would weld them in, but the aftermarket ones are prettty junky looking. Then maybe i would care about it a bit more.
