1997 XLT 4.6 2WD: Can't remove Spark Plugs! Help!!

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BVR1

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Hi everyone!

This is my first post here. I've learned a lot on this site and have been able to do most of the work needed on my 97' Expedition XLT. I got a P0304 code recently and after some research and checking around the spark plug wire for cylinder 4 I found what looks like a crack on the T coupling that feeds into the back of the firewall and has been leaking antifreeze which has been trickling down into the spark plug.


My question is, how the hell I am supposed to get a socket onto the last spark plug in the back (cylinder 4) without cutting the two hoses (see picture)?? I've looked everywhere on youtube and can't seem to find anything. I was able to remove the spark plug wire on cylinder 4 but there's no way to get socket or wrench way back there. Has anyone else had this issue? Please help!
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craig sargood

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Hey, I have the 5.4 , not 4.6, but given that the heater tee is cracked, then it’s time to replace them. I would remove and replace both tee hoses, motorcraft ones are a little pricey, but you could get some cheaper ones to get you by. Then it should be rather easy to get to plug. I believe on my engine I had to use a 6” extension and 3” extension together to get to that plug. Check rock auto for hoses, they give you different levels of parts to choose from.
 
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BVR1

BVR1

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Thanks man! Did you have to take out the intake manifold to disconnect the hose from the firewall? I'm finding out doing so most people have to do that and end up replacing a bubch if other things while doing so (gaskets, sensors, etc.)
I appreciate the reply and feedback!

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Ulver

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Try reaching back there with a few extensions like Craig mentioned, and a swivel spark plug remover socket. Since our plugs go in at an awkward angle, the swiveled SP remover really comes to the rescue when trying to remove the spark plug from the back of bank 1.
 

TobyU

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Since you have to work on the fittings it will be a little easier.

I would improvise a T to fit and use clamps but you can just buy a ready to go hose too.

With the hose there you just have to move it around a little to drop a socket with a 6 inch extension on down in the plug well.
Sometimes I use a 12 or 18 inch one.
Then use 3/8 ratchet with a 3 inch ext on it or a swivel.
Be VERY careful with swivels and U joints. The longer spark plug ext with socket on it that is a ball style is safer but with any if you angle it too much you can crack the insulator ceramic pat of plug especially with some plug sockets that have small diameter around the top electrode.
 

GZ123

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I recently had a P0304 as well and swapped my plugs, wires, and coil packs. It's not just you, it sucks accessing those back ones. You may be in a different situation since you're replacing leaky hoses as well, but if you just need the thing to run in the meantime see below.

The best way I've seen to get to those back plugs is shown at 11:15 in this video (you've gotta remove the mega fuse bracket and things are much more accessible ...still not easy)


Also, the plastic housings that cover the mega fuses are total junk and pretty much exploded even when I tried my best to unbolt the assemblies slowly and carefully, so take your time. If they do break, just keep the bolts that hold all the electrical contacts together and you can get creative with electrical tape and zip ties when you put it back together. I actually broke one of the mega fuses while taking this stuff apart and my car behaved as if I had a dead battery until I figured out that I had busted one. Good luck!
 

Trainmaster

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The problem is 24 year old plastic. The stuff gets brittle with time. When the locking clips for my coil leads kept breaking about five years ago, I came to grips with the reality that the days of my 2000 were numbered.

For torquing the %&$#ing plugs, I found a long "torque limiting" socket on ebay that would release when the proper torque was reached. That made the job much easier. Got it down to about an hour...
 

LandOfLincoln

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The way I get to #4 is to create an opening by pulling the hoses up and to the right. To remove the plug, I insert a spark plug socket with a 3" extension into the hole. Then I add a 3/8 ratchet with another 3" extension on top of that. Once it's loose enough to turn by hand, I remove the ratchet. There isn't much room to pull it out of the well, so removing one of the 3" extensions is also an option. Universal joints feel risky as someone said. I have a video and pictures showing what I do if anyone is interested.

I also replaced the mega fuse holders years ago with non-Ford parts I found online. Like the poster above said, the eventually crumble to where you can't get the nut loose.
 

craig sargood

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Those heater hoses just have some push tabs on the sides and pop off, the have o rings on the pipes coming out if I remember correctly.
 
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