Picked up a Northstar X2 Power AGM battery today

Truck started cranking slowly here recently and we’re supposed to hit a super cold snap.
Figure anymore 4-5 years is a good run on batteries.
I have been a NAPA Legend AGM fan for awhile now. But the NAPA tips out at 750CCA. I always try to upgrade CCAs when I replace a battery so I began to look around a bit and these Northstar X2 Power batteries come with high regard in the Offroad/Overlanding world.

Batteries+ had 20% off and $30 rebate making it $230.
A touch more than other AGM batteries but this is a cranking and cycling battery with 930CCAs and a 5 year full replacement warranty.

Hoping the solid reviews are right

https://www.batteriesplus.com/produ...-3.5l-750cca-w_-intelligent-access/sli65agmdp

Question. Not trying to make trouble. If AGM batteries require specific chargers vs classic lead acid batteries ... Can you just drop an AGM into a vehicle not built that way? Is there a chance the alternator and charging system might have a problem with that?

I kind of have the same question about LED light retrofits. Different current loads seem like that could not match up with original electrical design.

So long as the alternator is in spec and putting out under 15 volts it’s no problem for an AGM. An alternator isn’t a charger, an alternator maintains the battery and the low output won’t hurt anything. A battery charger is a different ball of wax and AGM batteries need a nice and slow charge, battery chargers are what damage these from too much output too fast.

Previous poster is correct. No issue putting an AGM battery in.

You will however want to purchase a battery charger that is designed for AGM if you were to ever need to charge it.

I have a Schumacher and it has selectable options for what type of battery you are charging.

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I have a battery tender 10w solar 12v charger and I like it. I use it on my optima yellowtop which is agm and leave it on the hood or bed all day. It has a charge controller built in and 10watts is kind of impossible to charge too fast.

Never heard of anyone having probs switching to AGM. I did just have a weird experience though.
I had an old yellow top Optima that history was unknown.

It was weak when I put load tester on it and it dropped to 9.5-10.5 v.
I figured it was shot but I put in on charger.
I have an electronic one with AGM and gel settings.
It charged up fine to my surprise. Then I ran the reconditioner/desulfate 2-3 cycles.
And charged it again.

Load test was AWESOME! I will say these AGM are impressive under load. NOT over $200 impressive BUT they sit with full batter load tester on them for 20 secs and never drop below 11.2 usually staying at 11.5.
A regular battery will be 10.7 on a good day.

So I let it trickle. Then let it sit for 10+ days. Load test still awesome!

Had a batt get weak in a car I was using but only driving every 10-15 days.
Put it in and drove it 2 times. 1st was driving and idling for over 6 hrs. I did turn it off once or twice and it restarted just fine.
A few days later It started right up and I drove it 6 miles, idled for 15 mins, then 5 miles.
Shut if off and sat there for 45 mins and it was TOO low to start!!
Had to use the battery backup.
Now this is where it gets different. This is on a limo with two separate charging systems.
They are completely isolated For all intents and purposed UNLESS you push the batty backup button and that just energizes a solenoid that connect the rear batt to the front batt.
The front factory ford is stock with its alternator and the rear has its own battery and own alternator. This alternator is not engergized or producing current until the back main power button is turned on.

So I drove it the 10 miles back to base and it was fine. Turned it off and let it sit for 15 mins, turned head lights on for a few secs and could tell it was weak. Would barely crank.

So this optima seemed great until I put in in a car and used charged it with alternator. I wonder how easy they are to damage?
Limos often crank up voltage to compensate for extra loads but this has two factory alts with internal regulators.
It has a digital aftermarket volt meter an I see 14.7 often when it is first started.
Wonder if it killed the batt or it was just shot to begin with and that is why it was replaced....It was old used batt.

It was so great out of car under load test and sitting for days with no loss of voltage or capacity.
This is my 1st experience with an optima so it's a little confusing.

Aren't they supposed to be safe for up to 15 or 15.2 volts?

I don't think the car had any fast drains in it. It sat with another battery in it for weeks and still started right up.
I haven't tried to charge the optima yet. I wouldn't trust it anyway but if it doesn't charge and won't take a load then at least I'd know its shot.....just not know if the car damaged it.

Smart move Black. In the motorcycle world, we love AGM's because they don't leak acid, causing chrome to be etched!


jeff

Been running an AGM in my first gen for a couple years. Going to swap it for the lead-acid in my Explorer (same size battery) before I sell it.

I’ve been running the local autopart house brand AGM batteries. Had an Autozone and I think now I’ve got an Advance Auto. The sticker on the outside doesn’t seem to matter because there are only a couple actual battery manufacturers. Deka is one of the better ones- and are who seem to make the autopart store batteries.

A few years back Deka and Interstate made the best batteries but I believe I read that Deka manufacturing had changed and they might not be as good as they used to be. Interstate are still some of the best I see. Most of the batteries are made by exide or Johnson Controls an exide seems to be the ones that will make them cheaper for store brands Etc