Fix swirl marks

Yes i bought a black car and it shows swirl marks from the car wash brillo pads. The dealer must have washed it a bunch of times because when I bought it, it had 300 miles already and showed a lot of swirl marks. I tried using the touchless wash but sometimes it was so dirty I had to take it through the regular one. I fully expected it to show them with it being black and was going to have them taken out every so often. Did anybody just buy their own supplies and polish their own or easier to just pay someone? If so what supplies are the best? Or what would it cost if I just pay someone roughly? Thanks

I paid for paint correction and ceramic coating for mine at less than 100 miles.. I just don’t have the patience or time to do the amount of work required on a vehicle this large. Mine is ingot silver so it won’t show imperfections nearly as bad as black will.

Here is what I use... https://adamspolishes.com/collectio...MI6PWgp6nb5wIVQdbACh1XCARVEAAYASAAEgJhdfD_BwE

I have a black expy and it’s a mirror! Get yourself a DA polisher with a medium cutting pad. I am a huge fan of chemical guys orange pad with VSS. If you aren’t seeing results move up to a grittier compound like their V36 and finish it with their V38 and a black pad. Tons of how to videos on their site. Easy job that can be done on your schedule and WAY cheaper than paying someone to do it!

On a side note, multiple paint corrections, especially if you need to get aggressive is not recommended. The clear is only so thick. Once you have it corrected it would be in your best interest to work on preventing them. Auto car washes are not recommended.

Never let dealer wash or send one out for detail.

Monkeys do it and it will be swirled to all get out.

Ultimate Cutter is my favorite for harsh swirls but any polishing compound will work.
A black waffle pad works for me.
Then I go over by hand with 1-2 coats of Zymol and it looks like this.

This is approx 9-10 inch black waffle pad on non DA polisher with the Ultimate Cutter to correct swirls and some dust puck marks and then hand terry cloth applicator of Zymol.

And NEVER take a car with good paint through ANY car wash.
You may spray a wishy wash one by hand but don't use the brush.

Factory paint is harder than a repaint even a high dollar show job(even non laquer) but still keep good paint away form car washes.
Wash by hand with 2 bucket method but ideally never let it get that dirty that you need any thing more that quick detail spray and microfiber wipe off.

TobyU said:

Ideally never let it get that dirty that you need any thing more that quick detail spray and microfiber wipe off.

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This is funny, not sure where you live that this is even a thought that could cross your mind? I get too dirty to do a detail spray and microfiber wipe just driving the kids to school. This may be an option for a sports car/hot rod that only leaves the garage on special occasions but I don't see this as an option for anyone that actually has to go someplace on a daily basis.

duneslider said:

This is funny, not sure where you live that this is even a thought that could cross your mind? I get too dirty to do a detail spray and microfiber wipe just driving the kids to school. This may be an option for a sports car/hot rod that only leaves the garage on special occasions but I don't see this as an option for anyone that actually has to go someplace on a daily basis.

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It would be hard to do on a daily driver if you drive that daily driver daily. I know it's a cash a daily driver. I have 10 cars and 2 motorcycles at my house currently so I don't have to drive the same one every day.
I know a guy that had an Acura 4 years who wiped the car at every day and did all his class with Windex every single day. Needless to say the car look great when it was years old.
If it's not rainy out or snowing most places you can drive the car and only get a little bit of dust on it throughout the day.
It is something you have to do every one to three days though because once you get too much on their quick detail just doesn't work well it's too dangerous to scratch the paint. Also, those waterless spray washes aren't really a good idea either. You do need a water hose when I get over a mild dusting on them.

Artie said:

I paid for paint correction and ceramic coating for mine at less than 100 miles.. I just don’t have the patience or time to do the amount of work required on a vehicle this large. Mine is ingot silver so it won’t show imperfections nearly as bad as black will.

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How has that coating held up so far?


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Diverdown said:

How has that coating held up so far?


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Honestly, it has been the best money I’ve spent on this vehicle. It makes an insane difference when washing, nothing sticks to the paint. Bugs and mud come off with little to no effort and the water beading is crazy. It wasn’t cheap, I think with the full detail, paint correction, interior protection, and ceramic coating it was $3k and I had to leave it with the guy for a couple days for the coating to cure. I take it back annually for a full detail and reapplication but that’s only $200. I would do it again in a heartbeat. He applied gtechniq crystal serum.

Artie said:

Honestly, it has been the best money I’ve spent on this vehicle. It makes an insane difference when washing, nothing sticks to the paint. Bugs and mud come off with little to no effort and the water beading is crazy. It wasn’t cheap, I think with the full detail, paint correction, interior protection, and ceramic coating it was $3k and I had to leave it with the guy for a couple days for the coating to cure. I take it back annually for a full detail and reapplication but that’s only $200. I would do it again in a heartbeat. He applied gtechniq crystal serum.

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Gtechniq is good stuff can use reload every few months to keep up the beading properties. I fully wrap my hood and front fenders in Xpel ultimate because they get the dirtiest and pelted with road debris (sand, rocks, salt etc).