Owners of 2015-2017 Models - is yours reliable?

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99WhiteC5Coupe

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Ah -now I'm right behind you with 76K on my (last month) new to me '17. I really like this rig and it feels like everything I've been looking for as a mature adult. It's RWD only with a 3.73 optional gear and nice OEM 20" wheels. Having that odd little idle shudder and a "more odd" chuggle when coasting (deceleration) down between 30 and 20mph -feels like the 3rd gear lock up is trying to decide what to do. My wife drievs it occasionaly and says "stop trying to find something wrong". Last week I changed plugs but got lazy and handed my new Motorcraft SP580 plugs to a fairly sharp Firestone mechanic and said "be sure to gap them at thirty, no more" (magic marker on the boxes too). Didn't seem to help the idle -maybe slightly. Yesterday I cleaned the 3 MAP sensors -same result there. Am leaning toward a 5 Star for towing a 25' RV but don't want to tune until I'm solid on the idle and coasting oddities. Also want to know what brands of oils you're using in the engine and rear diff. The Ford dealer I bought it from changed oil and the little window sticker says 5W20 don't know if it was dino or syn. I removed a pint and added Liqui Moly MoS2 anti-friction and then will start running whatever everyone here thinks best. Want to keep this rig on the road for a long time. Reply when you can. Mike


Ford recommends 5W30 oil, not 5W20.

Several times the selling/servicing Ford dealership for my 2015 Ford Expedition Limited 4x4 put the wrong oil in engine, and I had to take it back. One time the service advisor said “his guys” weren't’ used to the 5W30 requirement yet. I’m assuming he meant his “factory trained technicians” that “know my vehicle best”.
 

MidwestBoater

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Ah -now I'm right behind you with 76K on my (last month) new to me '17. I really like this rig and it feels like everything I've been looking for as a mature adult. It's RWD only with a 3.73 optional gear and nice OEM 20" wheels. Having that odd little idle shudder and a "more odd" chuggle when coasting (deceleration) down between 30 and 20mph -feels like the 3rd gear lock up is trying to decide what to do. My wife drievs it occasionaly and says "stop trying to find something wrong". Last week I changed plugs but got lazy and handed my new Motorcraft SP580 plugs to a fairly sharp Firestone mechanic and said "be sure to gap them at thirty, no more" (magic marker on the boxes too). Didn't seem to help the idle -maybe slightly. Yesterday I cleaned the 3 MAP sensors -same result there. Am leaning toward a 5 Star for towing a 25' RV but don't want to tune until I'm solid on the idle and coasting oddities. Also want to know what brands of oils you're using in the engine and rear diff. The Ford dealer I bought it from changed oil and the little window sticker says 5W20 don't know if it was dino or syn. I removed a pint and added Liqui Moly MoS2 anti-friction and then will start running whatever everyone here thinks best. Want to keep this rig on the road for a long time. Reply when you can. Mike


I use Mobil 1 5w30 full syn for the engine, Mobil 1 full syn gear lube for the differentials, and Motorcraft Mercon LV for the transmission and T case.
 

mike foster

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I use Mobil 1 5w30 full syn for the engine, Mobil 1 full syn gear lube for the differentials, and Motorcraft Mercon LV for the transmission and T case.

With the M1 full syn lube are you adding any Ford XL-3 Friction Modifier or Trans-X® Posi Trac® Limited Slip Gear Oil Additive to your read end? At 76k I am just noticing a groaning sound when from a dead stop I accelerate into a sharp turn left or right (like turning onto a side street from a stop sign). Since it has the LS rear end that has to be clutch packs, right?
 

mike foster

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Ford recommends 5W30 oil, not 5W20.

Several times the selling/servicing Ford dealership for my 2015 Ford Expedition Limited 4x4 put the wrong oil in engine, and I had to take it back. One time the service advisor said “his guys” weren't’ used to the 5W30 requirement yet. I’m assuming he meant his “factory trained technicians” that “know my vehicle best”.

Yeah I am def going to move to 5W30 -I live down here in NOLA and it's always a million degrees! I'll catch it soon and am eager to get my hands on this "plastic oil plug" I've been reading about. So with 76k would you guys go ahead and do both the rear and the trans?
 

MidwestBoater

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With the M1 full syn lube are you adding any Ford XL-3 Friction Modifier or Trans-X® Posi Trac® Limited Slip Gear Oil Additive to your read end? At 76k I am just noticing a groaning sound when from a dead stop I accelerate into a sharp turn left or right (like turning onto a side street from a stop sign). Since it has the LS rear end that has to be clutch packs, right?

No, my truck doesn't have a limited slip rear diff.
 

mike foster

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In the rear of my '17, I used Marine gear oil and added the Ford modifier at 38K.....silent since and I'm now at 85K

Ford recommends 5W30 oil, not 5W20.

Several times the selling/servicing Ford dealership for my 2015 Ford Expedition Limited 4x4 put the wrong oil in engine, and I had to take it back. One time the service advisor said “his guys” weren't’ used to the 5W30 requirement yet. I’m assuming he meant his “factory trained technicians” that “know my vehicle best”.

So earlier this week I talked to the Ford service writer where I bought my used 2017 w/75K and he boldly stated "we use bulk 5W20 in everything unless the customer asks for something else". I'm not real concerned as the temps have remained cool here -already bought some Penzoil Platinum 5w30 for next month's change.

Question: Has anyone looked into Liqui Moly oils and additives? They've got some pretty great reviews from enthusiasts and I've added the MoS2 to my Expedition, my son's 4.0L Explorer, my lawn mower and my portable generator. The only instant improvement has been with the lawn mower. From brand new it has always puffed smoke at start up. It hasn't puffed since I added about an ounce of the MoS2. Maybe it's as good as it seems? They've even got a syn transmission fluid that meets the Mercon LV spec. What say ye?
 

iamthedavem

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I have a 2016 Expedition XLT. Last week I was driving and got a low brake fluid warning with no corresponding change in braking performance. I was not far from home, so I drove the rest of the way home and checked my brake fluid when I arrived. The fluid was completely empty! I refilled the reservoir and then checked the brakes again and they seemed to be working fine. I didn't see any fluid on the wheels or anywhere else so I assumed maybe my brakes had worn down and the calipers were extended enough to reduce the fluid in the reservoir. I made a mental note to take a good look at the pads and rotors when I got a chance. A few hours later, I needed to go somewhere but when I started to leave, I had no brakes at all! I checked and found the brake fluid had run completely out again. There was no fluid on the ground or on any of the calipers so I deduced that it must have leaked into the brake booster.

Knowing the booster was most likely full of brake fluid, I decided that I would replace both the booster and the master cylinder. I ordered both (remanufactured) from O'Reilly's, picked them up and installed them the next day. After installation, I still could not get the pedal to stop going to the floor. I only replaced the master cylinder so I felt pretty sure there was no air further down in the hydraulic lines. I bled the master cylinder and the distribution block that the two master cylinder lines are attached to where they split up and go to each wheel. The pedal still did not stop going to the floor and the brake fluid level was not getting lower except for what was expected due to bleeding. I decided to bleed the entire system and ended up bleeding out 2 quarts of brake fluid but the pedal still did not stop going to the floor.

I called O'Reilly's and arranged to get replacements for both items, specifying that I wanted a new (not rebuilt) master cylinder. I had to wait a couple of days to get the parts but O'Reilly's exchanged them both for me only charging me the difference between the rebuilt master cylinder and the new one. After replacing them both again, everything went like clockwork and my brakes were working normally again.

What really bothered me was the fact that the master cylinder failed at 43K miles and it went from working fine to no brakes at all in a short time. Had I continued to drive immediately after refilling my master cylinder, I could easily have gotten into an accident because it would not stop without using the parking brake. This problem should not have happened. I have had other cars with master cylinders that failed but they all failed gradually. You could still drive and as long as you pumped the brakes they still worked, giving you time to get it fixed.
My confidence if American cars containing parts manufactured in Mexico is not high.

I have been a Ford owner since the 60's but since Biden's policies are encouraging U.S. Manufacturers to move back to Mexico, my next car purchase will probably be for a more reliable car built in Japan or Germany and I doubt I will buy any more rebuilt hydraulic parts in the future. I used to be a mechanic years ago and I installed lots of rebuilt master cylinders, but I don't ever remember one failing immediately on installation.
 

jeff kushner

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Sounds like an anomaly as Brake's haven't been seen as an issue. Ironic that I just logged on as I just ordered Rotors/ceramics from Rock Auto before we go on vacation.

My mileage is now at 115K...no runs, no drips, no errors. 18.4mpg over the life of the truck.

Oh yeah, the console spring...it broke a couple months ago. The only thing that has.............

jeff
 

Machete

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Sounds like we’re due for another “ Who has most mileage...” thread.
 

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