2017 3.5 EB Oil Preference

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LokiWolf

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I told @JExpedition07 I was going to stay away for a while...but I just can't.

@07navi Stop. You have been around here for 21 days, and you come in to several threads like you are the only source of info. You are not! You don't even own a 3.5EB equipped Expedition, yet you are cracking on a guy that owns a 2000 Expedition for mentioning Rotella. Trust me, I am not one to agree with most of what @Machete says, but he is not in the wrong here.

You used some random guys post from 2017 in a completely different place to prove your argument about not using Rotella. Did you actually go the the manufactures specification page...nope. That was one variant of their oil, that stopped getting certified for gas motors. Why you ask? That is because they were getting ready to release a Gas Truck specific oil. Did the composition of their T oil change, nope, they just stopped worrying about that cert for it, because they were releasing an oil specifically for that application and certifications. This really isn't hard to grasp. Some of Rotella's "Diesel" labeled oils also carry the gas specification certs...because Shell sells it for "multi vehicle" applications. Basically you can run it in many different vehicles, as long as it is the weight you need, gas or diesel.

Just for clarity...I do not use Rotella. I typically lean towards Valvoline...all from many years of experience with it on my diesels and race cars.

Right now, I use the Motorcraft blend in both my EB Edge and my EB Expedition because that is the OEM fluid, and the dealer does them for free!

I said this above, and I feel it needs repeating...

Diesel oils can be used in gas motors as long as they meet the standards that motor requires. Most of the time it is a waste, because diesel oils typically cost more. They need additional additives to deal with sheer and other unique diesel needs, like dissolving solid particulate matter.

One statement was made above...and is by far the most accurate in the whole thread.

Any premium brand made oil will do fine if changed regularly.

Generally a blended oil will last longer that 100% Dino, and synthetic will last longer than a blended. Even modern Dino oils can go WAY past the 3K of olden days.

If you have an oil life display, listen to it. It factors MANY things into its calculation, including start cycles, idle time, average length of drive, average speed, date(how long since last oil change), ambient temp and several other things. Mine averages between 5-7K with lots of remote starts, stop and go, and idling.

If you are changing your oil every 3K and aren’t in a harsh environment constantly flogging or towing, you are just wasting money...that is all.


I will be eagerly awaiting your reply...Not really. I feel sorry for the OP and his inbox...
 

TobyU

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I told @JExpedition07 I was going to stay away for a while...but I just can't.

@07navi Stop. You have been around here for 21 days, and you come in to several threads like you are the only source of info. You are not! You don't even own a 3.5EB equipped Expedition, yet you are cracking on a guy that owns a 2000 Expedition for mentioning Rotella. Trust me, I am not one to agree with most of what @Machete says, but he is not in the wrong here.

You used some random guys post from 2017 in a completely different place to prove your argument about not using Rotella. Did you actually go the the manufactures specification page...nope. That was one variant of their oil, that stopped getting certified for gas motors. Why you ask? That is because they were getting ready to release a Gas Truck specific oil. Did the composition of their T oil change, nope, they just stopped worrying about that cert for it, because they were releasing an oil specifically for that application and certifications. This really isn't hard to grasp. Some of Rotella's "Diesel" labeled oils also carry the gas specification certs...because Shell sells it for "multi vehicle" applications. Basically you can run it in many different vehicles, as long as it is the weight you need, gas or diesel.

Just for clarity...I do not use Rotella. I typically lean towards Valvoline...all from many years of experience with it on my diesels and race cars.

Right now, I use the Motorcraft blend in both my EB Edge and my EB Expedition because that is the OEM fluid, and the dealer does them for free!

I said this above, and I feel it needs repeating...

Diesel oils can be used in gas motors as long as they meet the standards that motor requires. Most of the time it is a waste, because diesel oils typically cost more. They need additional additives to deal with sheer and other unique diesel needs, like dissolving solid particulate matter.

One statement was made above...and is by far the most accurate in the whole thread.

Any premium brand made oil will do fine if changed regularly.

Generally a blended oil will last longer that 100% Dino, and synthetic will last longer than a blended. Even modern Dino oils can go WAY past the 3K of olden days.

If you have an oil life display, listen to it. It factors MANY things into its calculation, including start cycles, idle time, average length of drive, average speed, date(how long since last oil change), ambient temp and several other things. Mine averages between 5-7K with lots of remote starts, stop and go, and idling.

If you are changing your oil every 3K and aren’t in a harsh environment constantly flogging or towing, you are just wasting money...that is all.


I will be eagerly awaiting your reply...Not really. I feel sorry for the OP and his inbox...

Correct! 07Navi you are quickly becoming a troll.
It is completely okay to disagree and say you see no need to use a diesel oil in a gasoline engine.
Unfortunately, you are incorrect when you start telling people that it is wrong or that it is harmful or that it should not be done.
It is your opinion there is no need and there's plenty of information to back up the fact that a standard gasoline or even a gasoline turbo rated oil is just fine for a gasoline engine especially a 3.5 twin turbo in an expedition.
A lot of oils are great for things that they aren't exactly expect for or design for. 15w 50 Works quite well and air-cooled lawn mowers also.
It's actually a lot better than the newer 30 weight because it has higher zinc. These engines do not have bearing and sorts or shells. They simply have a loose tolerance with an oil cushion. It's nice to have as much as think as possible to prevent any galling or metal-to-metal contact should a little bit occur.
You sound like the type of person that would read an owner's manual from a 25-year old engine and say it says it supposed to have 30 weight so you must put 30 weight and that that would be the best. That would also be incorrect. Those 30 weights were only up to SL ratings and had a lot more zinc. When they went to SM and then SN they took out so much of the zinc that now a 15 W 50 rotella s a better oil for them.
You can't just go by what the manufacturers say or what they said when Engine was designed, or I bought any random one person says on the internet. You don't have to take my word for this about the 15 W 50 and air cooled engines because I am just one person internet. However, if you go to my tractor Forum. Com and start reading you will find tons of people that is used to 15w50
years and can't out the great results with it.

So why don't you just say you see no reason for it and you think it's a complete waste of time and money and let's be done with it.
If you continue to try to argue a point that is just a personal preference that is incorrect, we are going to continually come back tick tell you once again that you are wrong.
If we stick with personal preferences then no one can be wrong because that is entirely up to each person.
If it is your preference to run Wesson oil in an engine then that is your preference and is right for you.
I may tell you that it's risky and not the best for your engine but I will agree that it's still oil.
 

LokiWolf

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A troll? Come on man. Type in " Rotella is not for gas engines" in google. Read it and weep, I am done here. Sorry I warned people about using it. :emotions34:

Again...generic statement! Depends on which Rotella we are talking about. You are dense. Saying all Rotella is not for gas Engines is just flat WRONG! Period.

FYI - 2 Stroke is a proven additive for lubricity in diesel. I used to run it in my 6.0. http://www.trucktrend.com/features/0911dp-fuel-additive-test. It also improved MPG in older diesels when USLD became standard.

In other news...THE HORSE IS DEAD!


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TobyU

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A troll? Come on man. Type in " Rotella is not for gas engines" in google. Read it and weep, I am done here. Sorry I warned people about using it. :emotions34:

"I am done here." Thank goodness.

Now on to something else we can disagree - ahem- a mean share our preferences on.
 

LokiWolf

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Anyone have an engine oil analysis done with a non-standard oil in a late engine (meaning not 5W-30 for gasoline as prescribed for the 3.5 TurboBoost)? (The 5.4V8 engines are different.)

-- Chuck

I am sure somebody has. Bob is the oil guy forum would probably be a good source for that.



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TobyU

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I will say one thing and it is very true. People do harp so much on types and Brands and certain classifications of motor oil and make a much bigger deal about it then it really isn't reality. Very, very few engines ever fail or wear out do to lack of lubrication caused bye inferior quality or the wrong type of oil. Most engines that are damaged are damaged due to not enough oil in the crankcase, or lack of changes so the oil is so thick and sludged up it can't get where it needs to go and lubricate properly.
Almost any motor oil you could find in a can or bottle would yield quite satisfactory results in Longevity if you kept enough of it in the crankcase and changed it at decent intervals.

I understand though that when people spend a ton of money on a vehicle and plan on keeping a long time or if it's their pride and joy or a collectible style show car they do want to do what's best for it. Just like with these twin turbo engines in the Expedition. I would prefer to have a turbo charged rated oil in it or a full synthetic to help with turbo bearing longevity and lubrication. I have had a good deal of turbochargers but all old school stuff and nothing current. I have my major doubts about these turbochargers lasting. Turbos are just not an item that are good for the life of an engine.
 

Machete

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07nubie is a 16 year old trolling this forum w his ignorance.

Let’s move on from this moron. He can use WD40 on his next oil change.
 

TobyU

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07nubie is a 16 year old trolling this forum w his ignorance.

Let’s move on from this moron. He can use WD40 on his next oil change.

I find it takes to long to fill it up even with the flexi tube straw thingy.
 

John Kohler

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I suggest contacting Shell and informing them they are spreading false information on their own product page:

Shell Rotella® Gas Truck provides unsurpassed wear protection* that larger, higher-torque powertrains need. It outperforms conventional motor oils in severe conditions and is formulated with advanced additive technology for tough protection and excellent viscosity control under the most grueling temperatures, so drivers can do more in extreme environments with confidence
 
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