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reamest

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So after 268+ thousand miles, the motor finally said FU. I've been researching my options up to this point on what I wanted to do when this time came, and now that it has, I have to pull the trigger and figure something out. Me being the person I am, I don't like really having anything that is like everyone else's so I've dreamt of crate motors, pro-chargers, etc. I also don't like to spend a lot of $$ either...So I think that I've found a motor at my local yard for the best price that i've seen. It's an '08 5.4 w/118K. The vehicle was rear ended, so the front end was untouched:). They're looking to get $1,750+tax out of it.

My questions are:
1. If I go this route, before the motor is put into my Expy, what should I replace to help ensure that I don't have an issue too soon after installation? (Timing chain tensioners, oil pump, etc)
2. The transmission for that '08 is available too for $350. Should I get that too since it has half the miles of my transmission which has some slipping moments?

I'm not entirely sure what my Expy is worth as is and what it would be worth after. I'm hesitant to get rid of it since I've put so many new parts into it and I know what all of it's issues/quirks are. It was a southern truck when I bought it, so there is still no rust on it which for an '07 up north by me, is unheard of. I'm able to drive my Super Duty for the time being, but that is not a long term solution because the SD is WAY too big for a daily driver...I don't need the Expy for hauling since I have my SD, so I could get something else to drive as a daily driver.

Thanks everyone for their input...
 

Flexpedition

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The salvage engine and transmission prices seem more than reasonable and changing both at once seems like a smart move. If they'd happen to offer a tiny warranty that'd be ideal and reassuring. Me personally, I wouldn't tear into the motor to replace anything - the guarantee that you'll proactively solve any problems is just about as strong as the guarantee the old stuff was going to fail. As far as value goes, I don't think you'll be increasing value much, possibly a few hundred bucks to the right buyer, as the general expectation of value is that the vehicle is running and driving. Make no mistake, this is an expense, not an investment.

Is your Super Duty a crewcab long bed? A neighbor drives a SRW F350 crew cab with the 8 foot box. One of his kids is home from college (I think) and drives a Prius. Seeing them parked next to each other makes me chuckle.
 

joethefordguy

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me, personally, I'd get the tranny.
Now, having said that, I'd want to get the motor rebuilt with all available upgrades (at least spark plugs, cam chain system, oil pump, etc.), $$$ permitting, so it might be best to do a price comparison between that and some version of a crate engine. personally, I'd avoid a blown gas engine because I believe they generally don't last as long as naturally aspirated gas motors do. However, if money were no object, I'd put one of the "Million Mile" 12V Cummins in it.

good luck with whatever you decide, and please keep us posted!
 
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reamest

reamest

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The salvage engine and transmission prices seem more than reasonable and changing both at once seems like a smart move. If they'd happen to offer a tiny warranty that'd be ideal and reassuring. Me personally, I wouldn't tear into the motor to replace anything - the guarantee that you'll proactively solve any problems is just about as strong as the guarantee the old stuff was going to fail. As far as value goes, I don't think you'll be increasing value much, possibly a few hundred bucks to the right buyer, as the general expectation of value is that the vehicle is running and driving. Make no mistake, this is an expense, not an investment.

Is your Super Duty a crewcab long bed? A neighbor drives a SRW F350 crew cab with the 8 foot box. One of his kids is home from college (I think) and drives a Prius. Seeing them parked next to each other makes me chuckle.
Yeah, crew cab long box. Just shy of 22' of moving metal...I have to kiss the front wall in the garage with the bumper in order for the door to go down.
 

Trainmaster

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If you like the truck and the labor's cheap, I'd buy the motor and transmission. With just 110K on both, I'd only change the plugs and transmission fluid. The rest should be fine for years. Looks like a $4,000 investment should give that truck another 100,000 miles.

Bear in mind that the price of high end used and new trucks will plummet like never before in history over the next year or two, but solid cheap trucks will be in high demand. I think you have yourself a winner if it's solid.
 

JExpedition07

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I would get the engine and trans from the ‘08 BUT! I’d swap out both primary timing chain tensioners BEFORE you install the engine. It will cost you 50 or 60 bucks but save you TONS of headaches and then it won’t have timing set issues in the next 100k. Those tensioners are what start the snowball effect of problems on this engine and are easy to do engine out. Just have a helper keep the arm tensioned while you install the new ones.
 
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RichardH

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I only have a 2nd gen, but I have already thought about this scenario well before I need it - my '03 5.4 EB 2 wd is running excellent.

I've looked at crate motors. Considering the mileage, cost of used vs the possible cost of a rebuilt crate engine, you will be getting upgrades galore you might not normally do. Please see their description and link below. I have not done business with them nor affiliated, but their name always pops up. 3 year, 100K mile parts and labor warranty isn't shabby.

I would consider though getting the used transmission.

End of the day all motor needs would be resolved in my opinion for years, just go through and do the hoses etc for cooling, power steering, trans cooling if warranted while you have good access. I'd even toss in a new radiator while I'm there.

As you said you know what you have done to date. I'm in the same boat. I only have 150K on my 5.4, but if for some reason she grenades, crate motor for me. Trans is fine.

Good luck...

Dick


Info and link:
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Ford Triton
xFord5-4L-3V.jpg.pagespeed.ic.FpGXuhswy0.webp
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rjdelp7

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Sell the whole Expedition as a mechanics special or parts. $1700 is too much for a used 3V engine. Most of them are boat anchors. If you have a second vehicle, shop around for a wrecked donor vehicle. I think the body has to come off the frame to swap engines. It's over 8 hours labor.
 

joethefordguy

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... you will be getting upgrades galore you might not normally do. Please see their description and link below: https://www.jasperengines.com/ford-triton-engines

Ford Triton ...

JASPER remanufacturing advantages include:
  • Updated high-volume oil pump to ensure proper pressure to the VVT on 3-valve applications
  • Cam bearing clearances are maintained through the use of CNC and spray welding technology to reduce upper end noise
  • Nitrided valves improve durability and reduce friction
  • Torque plate boring and honing provide cylinder wall geometry that matches the cylinder head as a complete running assembly to improve ring sealing and eliminate blow-by of oil into the combustion chamber
  • M.L.S. (Multi-Layered Steel) head gaskets offer superior protection against gasket leakage
  • Exclusive JASPER piston design provides stronger ring lands and a graphite coating to prevent dry start-up and piston scuffing
  • Moly rings are installed to reduce friction for increased durability through reduced cylinder wall wear
  • O.E.M. rear main seals offer synthetic PTFE protection against damage from heat and oil additives
  • Live-Run Testing, with Data Acquisition and other assessments for your assurance of reliability, includes:
    • Compression, Vacuum and Oil Pressure testing
    • Cam/Crank Correlation to ensure proper valve timing
    • VVT Cam Phaser testing on 3-valve applications.


The only actual upgrades I saw are:
· Updated high-volume oil pump to ensure proper pressure to the VVT on 3-valve applications
· Nitrided valves improve durability and reduce friction
· Exclusive JASPER piston design provides stronger ring lands and a graphite coating to prevent dry start-up and piston scuffing
· Moly rings are installed to reduce friction for increased durability through reduced cylinder wall wear

is there any other "upgrade" i am missing?
thanks

jg
 

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