bloodhound
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They were durable, but not fast!
Rebuild Top End or New Engine 183,000
- Thread starter brcknrdg Rob
- Start date
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They were durable, but not fast!
I have driven all 4 Expedition engines. 4.6l, 5.4l, 5.4l 3v and Eco. There is surprising not much difference. None made enough power to break the tires loose. They were designed to tow. The 5.4l 2v was slightly better than the 4.6l, but went through gas like crazy. 12mpg and less. The 5.4L 3v had like 30 more hp, 1 or 2 more mpg than the 2V. It sounded great when floored, but didn't seem like it was doing much, in the way of speed. The EB had best pep 0-40mph. Over that not that impressive. It seemed like it was working pretty hard, pulling that heavy SUV. The transmission made a few abrupt downshift/upshifts. It had to really rev high, to feel the power come on. I also noticed, it was lacking in the engine braking category. The V8 slows down better. I had the 4.6l in a 1999 Town Car. It is the same(panther) as the P71 Crown Vic. It ran way better than you think. That 19' car hauled ass. It had great power. I don't want hear a 5.4l 3V will blow the doors off anything. I drove it.
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mjp2
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Regear your differentials. You'll get more power to the ground, regain some MPGs, and take some strain off your driveline.
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brcknrdg Rob
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Maybe on a first gen with a solid axle
This has been a problem with Jeep wranglers for years. When they get bigger tires have no power. The rear diff ratio has to be changed.
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brcknrdg Rob
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So we have decided that we will most likely be repowering our 09', which in the Boating world is the term one would use for replacing the engine. That being said I am going to try a few things first for diagnostics and knowledge since we have enough vehicles to cover if this goes down on us in a major way and we are forced into the replacement rather than when we elect to.
I had previously installed piece of crap coil packs a few months ago to fix the P0303 code and the noticeable misfire that became prevalent after that code flashed going up a large grade and experiencing a momentary loss of power. The thing ran bitchen for about 200 miles and then the misfire returned but was slightly less noticeable. After posting on here and other forums I now see the error in my ways when I failed to use OEM coil packs. Since I have elected to put a new engine in when the time comes I know that I will be wanting to have some things be new on it so I am going to start those purchases now so that;
TLDR; Replaced cheap coil packs with motorcraft, seems to have helped with cam phasing issue, fuel injectors next.
I had previously installed piece of crap coil packs a few months ago to fix the P0303 code and the noticeable misfire that became prevalent after that code flashed going up a large grade and experiencing a momentary loss of power. The thing ran bitchen for about 200 miles and then the misfire returned but was slightly less noticeable. After posting on here and other forums I now see the error in my ways when I failed to use OEM coil packs. Since I have elected to put a new engine in when the time comes I know that I will be wanting to have some things be new on it so I am going to start those purchases now so that;
- I will have them when the time comes and I wont have to shell out all at once
- To see if it fixes anything and may increase the amount of time we get out of it prior to the replacement.
- The loud racket I associate with the Cam Phase Position Sensors (CPPS) seems to happen after letting off of the gas pedal while accelerating up a slight grade while in reverse and eventually going forward up the slight incline that is my driveway +/-5%. This had become a very reoccurring thing. My thought on this was that (like makuloco) said "even though you will not get the codes popping up with the cheap coil packs it will cause other issues". While letting off the throttle I would feel a drop in the engine RPMs and then the noise & rattles would start.
- I gain some more life knowledge.
TLDR; Replaced cheap coil packs with motorcraft, seems to have helped with cam phasing issue, fuel injectors next.
I don't agree with your diagnosis at all. A bad cam position sensor, the engine won't start/run. There is no noise associated with it going bad. When fuel injectors go bad you get a code/cel. They can stick open and bleed off fuel pressure. It causes hard cold starts. The rattle you hear backing up, could be a loose heat shield on the exhaust. The front left ones are a problem. The misfire is a misfire, not slightly less misfire. Did you scan for a code or swap coil packs around? Brian Fordtechmakuloco, cautioned about knock off Motorcraft coil packs. So, Motorcraft isn't always Motorcraft, unless dealer purchased. I personally can say, I had good luck with a Accell coil pack. It was all Autozone had that day. It's been in there 8-9years along with my OEM coils.
07navi
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I would just replace any coils that are bad. Replacing oem ones all with china coils and throwing way all the still good OEM ones is a bad idea. My OEM coils in my last truck were still good at 200k when I sold it.
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brcknrdg Rob
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The rattle is definitely in the engine and not a heat shield rattling. Im not sure how else to verbalize a "slight misfire" without being even more incorrect. From what I have heard there are many signs of faulty positioning but I may be wrong. I scanned the codes and replaced the coil packs that i replaced the original coil packs with and they are verified motorcrafts.
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brcknrdg Rob
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I replaced all of the original with cheapo chiese ones "ACCEL" I believe. I thought I had kept the original good ones seperate from the bad one but doubted my certainty so instead of taking a chance I replaced them all with verifiable motorcraft coilpacks. I now have seven good spares and 8 fishing weights. Another learning experience that I felt like documenting so that others may be one step ahead if they make it this far in the search.
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