2005 King Ranch No start No crank Adventure

Hello to all,
Just got me a broken Expedition King Ranch 2005. About 200k on it, New transmission and engine still runs according to owner... When bought it the car would not start at all (quite a gamble there). Going through the Ignition switch --> Battery --> Neutral Safety Switch --> Starter -- I managed to find the fuse on number #34 is burned and starter relay was missing. Replaced it all and car started for few sec and died (fuse burned again).
Replaced the Fuel Pump Driver Module (thinking its shorting out) Car ran for about one min (more than before..) then again the fuse burned and car shut off.
My OBD2 is a WiFi module that would not connect while the car cannot run. Using FORScan Lite on Android I managed to get the below:
Code: P1000 - On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete (PCM)
Code: B1318 - The battery voltage level is too low. (4X4M DTC B1318-2F)
Code: U1900 - CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error (4X4M DTC U1900-2F)
Code: U1900 - CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error (ABS DTC U1900-20)
Code: B2900 - VIN Mismatch (ABS DTC B2900-20)
Code: C1805 - Mismatched PCM and/or ABS/TCS Module (ABS DTC C1805-20)
Code: C1278 - Steering Wheel Angle 1 and 2 Signal Fault (ABS DTC C1278-20)
Code: B1318 - The battery voltage level is too low. (IC DTC B1318-20)
Code: B1360 - Ignition Switch circuit open (IC DTC B1360-20)
Code: U1900 - CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error (IC DTC U1900-20)
Code: B2296 - Restraint System - Impact Sensor Fault (RCM DTC B2296)

After looking further into the matter I noticed many faulty fuse boxes complains so I replaced the whole thing with one that I know in working order. Still same result -- fuse #34 burns out. Whats next?
I am guessing that there is a short somewhere that leads to the fuse (electrical is really my less comfortable area in cars), either a short or ECM. Next steps is to see how and rule out the ECM then find out where to trace that short to ground (assuming thats the case) is located and hopefully fix it.
PS. I also purchased another 2005 Expedition (Eddie Bower) for parts, so should have some options (that one runs great as it can be with a damaged engine)

Thanks you in advance for all and any help offered. Hoping someone had the same issue and found the solution.

If you already have two of them and neither is needed for daily transportation and you have the time to diagnose might as well go for it.

I'm not an expert by any means on the expedition but the VIN and PCM mismatch is concerning. Could someone have swapped and not programmed things right? GM cars would require a relearn when swapping a pcm, even if it had been in the vehicle previously. I used to roll with a spare 93 tuned one before I got HPTuners when I first went E85 if I ever found myself unable to get fuel.

The CAN faults are likely why you can't connect w your scanner, no data, not going work. May also be part of other issues/codes if modules cant communicate properly.

Have you verified voltage? They basically shut down at a certain threshold, I forget what...want to say somewhere around 10.8v. I had an escape I was doing some stereo work on doing all sorts of weirdness that had a failing battery but wouldn't present until you had a decent load on it and voltage would just bottom out.

34 supplies power to the pcm, among other things I belive. Been awhile since I've had to look at a diagram for one. If it keeps blowing, it wouldnt be the first pcm that's been bad in one of these. Depending in how difficult it is to swap pcm, knowing you have good working one in the other 05, assuming its compatible could be a quick test. Downside is if there is an issue present that has killed the existing one. Wouldn't know until it's too late.

Just some thoughts is all I can offer unfortunately. I haven't had to troubleshoot one of these, electrically speaking.

Hi Aspen,
Yes, luckily I do not need any of those to drive right now. So time I do have (although being a stay at home dad with four children comes with a price...).
It looks like the Vin Mismatch is specific to the ABS Module, and I am hoping il be able to get that fixed through FORScan when I get the car up and running. Would be nice to actually have the other PCM tuned and ready for a swap when this is all done (Great idea!).
Voltage is verified and is now good! The older battery that was there was indeed bad and below 9V so this is most likely the reason. (or I so hope)
Got really confused of the value of #34 in the beginning since some online resources show it to be 20amp and some (less) show it to be 10amp. Managed to get a hold of a 2005 car booklet and there is shows 15amp. Apparently between the years of Gen 2 there is a difference in the value. My part car also uses 15amp so went with that.
#34 fuse is described as "PCM, Fuel injectors, Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) - Would it be the correct way of action to start elimination the above components for being bad and possibly shorting before I search for chafed wires?
OK -- Update: So I got the Fuel injectors all disconnected and the car cranked every single attempt without blowing the fuse. Started connecting them one at a time and the car started all the way. After all got connected the car actually ran really nice for about 3-4 min and then the fuse burned again!
Would it be safe to say this might be my issue? I looked at my parts car and it seems that the wiring is not routed the right way where it keeps on shorting. Now next step would be to really take some stuff out so I can get to the wiring and properly inspect. (pretty tight in there)
I will keep posting so hopefully this help someone else as I go through this journey...
David

hello, just an fyi, my 03 xlt has a 20 amp in fuse #34, Mine also shorted but was still making just enough contact for me to communicate with the pcm (however no crank, no start, the problem? was as you said, a bad battery.

91fox --> you are lucky! I wish the battery was the problem in my case. And yes apparently the Gen 2 Expedition are not all that identical. The 2005 is 15amp. (looking at the owners guide as well as confirming through a more specific online source. I did order a reset-able fuse (keep popping them off trying to locate the short. Thanks for your input.

Update:
Got the PCM replaced and same issue-- Fuse keeps on blowing. Also to mention I totally looked over the MAF system that also sits on the same fuse. Waiting for my Factory Manual (ordered a set from Ebay) and when it gets here I can finally start tracing wires to look for any spot where it might be touching ground.
Also will try and hook up a light (have a fog LED with 1.3amp draw) to see if I can Isolate the short.

Update:
Finally got the reset-able fuses and installed one on. Blew once and then I took the MAF sensor off and tried again. Started the car and ran great.. Enough for me to use FORScan and run full diagnostics, clear the errors and see what currently is giving issue. from around 10+ codes i"m really down to one. Had to calibrate some items and keep switching the car on and of. Fuse still holds strong. Took it for a drive in the neighborhood and ran great all along. Shifts great from P to 1 and the 4wd seems to work great in all setting. I did get a message on the console "Engine Fail-safe Mode" -- Now I wonder if that's from when the car lost the tranny (new one installed by previous owner.) The message disappeared and I see no other codes other then B2296-Front Impact Sensor an P1000. Driving the car I noticed no reduction in performance.
PS. I did sand the main PCM and cleaned it up with alcohol 91% before I put it back, also noticed wetness on the bottom of its cradle/holder-- dried and cleaned that up too.
Hope all this information helps someone else in my predicament, and if anyone has any input please feel free.

Update:
Got the Impact sensor replaced (one pin was just missing...) and now down to P1000.
Now the really hard part is to get it inspected... Maryland inspection had always been dreadful. Not to mention the conflict of interest for Mere Mechanics doing it... (not like they profit out of finding issues...) As well as the MVA being practically closed and closest appointment is two weeks ahead with no possible way to get a temp tag to get inspected for the first place.. Lets just make sure we all pay our taxes since incompetence is not cheap.
Next work on this car is fixing the A/C and the mount/support for the radiator.