Trainmaster
Old School Member
This is real funny stuff. Love you guys.
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If you folks don't mind, I'm going to jump in here.
In my experience, Occam's Razor may come in to play: Occam's Razor is the principle that, of two explanations that account for all the facts, the simpler one is more likely to be correct. In medicine it's referred (loosely here) to as differential diagnosis - eliminate what it isn't to point at what the DX is.
Yes, I've heard of the 'parts cannon' - avoid throwing parts at it until it's fixed, but..
After no luck with my '03 EB's stalling issue with 3 different shops, same same - I threw in the towel and went to the dealer. It took the dealer 3 visits to figure it out. Their shop Forman worked on it the last last two attempts. They were stumped. On visit 3 they noticed I had new EGR, DPFE and the two hoses. After substantial $$, it turned out the pressure sensor need replacing although new (I replaced that), (in addition to the cables to the battery and starter fixed in earlier visit) .
Eventually they got it right
Additionally, considering the current financial climate, I myself have tried some inexpensive repairs and believe it or not at no charge from the dealer when they could have charged $$$. I had a P0442 IIRC, small Evap Leak. Service advisor said Rich, put a new gas cap on it. He didn't even try to sell me a dealer one!
So if the first line to cure is mostly labor and small parts costs, I'm ok with it for my truck.
BTW, I'm not saying either opinion in the preceding posts are either right or wrong. I am sometimes surprised with what can cure our vehicles.
GL to OP and all others.
Dick
In my experience, Occam's Razor may come in to play: Occam's Razor is the principle that, of two explanations that account for all the facts, the simpler one is more likely to be correct. In medicine it's referred (loosely here) to as differential diagnosis - eliminate what it isn't to point at what the DX is.
Yes, I've heard of the 'parts cannon' - avoid throwing parts at it until it's fixed, but..
After no luck with my '03 EB's stalling issue with 3 different shops, same same - I threw in the towel and went to the dealer. It took the dealer 3 visits to figure it out. Their shop Forman worked on it the last last two attempts. They were stumped. On visit 3 they noticed I had new EGR, DPFE and the two hoses. After substantial $$, it turned out the pressure sensor need replacing although new (I replaced that), (in addition to the cables to the battery and starter fixed in earlier visit) .
Eventually they got it right
Additionally, considering the current financial climate, I myself have tried some inexpensive repairs and believe it or not at no charge from the dealer when they could have charged $$$. I had a P0442 IIRC, small Evap Leak. Service advisor said Rich, put a new gas cap on it. He didn't even try to sell me a dealer one!
So if the first line to cure is mostly labor and small parts costs, I'm ok with it for my truck.
BTW, I'm not saying either opinion in the preceding posts are either right or wrong. I am sometimes surprised with what can cure our vehicles.
GL to OP and all others.
Dick
Dealer recommended and performed a regular brake service with new pads, and fresh brake fluid. I was told they lubricated the caliper pins and that the pads appear to be moving freely. They did not recommend replacing the caliper.
*Service advisor said he was mistaken, that it was actually left rear, not left front brakes.. He showed me the old pads. The inner pad was worn down to 4mm, and the outer pad on the same caliper was still at 9. Not sure if a brake fluid change was really necessary.
It seems like something was messed up for that kind of uneven pad wear. I would like to speak directly to the service tech to verify what happened. I hope that does it for a while.
*Service advisor said he was mistaken, that it was actually left rear, not left front brakes.. He showed me the old pads. The inner pad was worn down to 4mm, and the outer pad on the same caliper was still at 9. Not sure if a brake fluid change was really necessary.
It seems like something was messed up for that kind of uneven pad wear. I would like to speak directly to the service tech to verify what happened. I hope that does it for a while.
07navi
Full Access Members
It's common for pads to wear faster on one side, it could have had some lube, fluid, or something else drip on one side at one time or something else got in there. At 214k miles you needed new fluid also. I wouldn't worry about it. Just throw some new pads in it when the time comes................Navi07, The Hack.
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I had new tires installed last year (2014EL) and was informed that inner rear pads were worn more than outer (same calipers, both sides I think). It was a reasonable time for new rear brakes anyway (98K) so I took it to my trusted shop to have that work done. They told me the inner pads were the most worn (vs outer) and that is typical because of the brake design. So they told me it was "normal". Just sharing what happened on my Expy and what I was told.
Some interesting info on this topic is at this link:
https://drivetribe.com/p/causes-of-...e6_GTsOV1BrvUN_Qxg?iid=QyBuEOTtQBC-dkFWNnr0yg
https://drivetribe.com/p/causes-of-...e6_GTsOV1BrvUN_Qxg?iid=QyBuEOTtQBC-dkFWNnr0yg
Just did my front brakes on 2012 and they were metal on metal. I took them off and whoever did the brakes before I bought it put the inboard pads on the outside. Brake pads look similar, but the inboard pads have 2 humps on the top and outboard pads don't.
Learned this the hard way several years ago. Used to working on GM brakes and most of them are the same, inboard or out. If the inboards are put on the outside the humps will get stuck on the caliper. The backside of the caliper has indentations for the humps.
Hope this was helpful...if not I hope you get some other replies.
Good Luck and stay safe,
The Hogg
Learned this the hard way several years ago. Used to working on GM brakes and most of them are the same, inboard or out. If the inboards are put on the outside the humps will get stuck on the caliper. The backside of the caliper has indentations for the humps.
Hope this was helpful...if not I hope you get some other replies.
Good Luck and stay safe,
The Hogg
Just did my front brakes on 2012 and they were metal on metal. I took them off and whoever did the brakes before I bought it put the inboard pads on the outside. Brake pads look similar, but the inboard pads have 2 humps on the top and outboard pads don't.
Learned this the hard way several years ago. Used to working on GM brakes and most of them are the same, inboard or out. If the inboards are put on the outside the humps will get stuck on the caliper. The backside of the caliper has indentations for the humps.
Hope this was helpful...if not I hope you get some other replies.
Good Luck and stay safe,
The Hogg
Learned this the hard way several years ago. Used to working on GM brakes and most of them are the same, inboard or out. If the inboards are put on the outside the humps will get stuck on the caliper. The backside of the caliper has indentations for the humps.
Hope this was helpful...if not I hope you get some other replies.
Good Luck and stay safe,
The Hogg
I have had sticking brake on ‘03 160k and ‘10 125k. Both times it was the RF. ‘03 it was the rubber flex line. It collapsed inside so fluid would push through but not flow back and brake would stick. I replaced the caliper first but that didn’t work, then replaced the line. ‘10 had similar problem. I just replaced both calibers and flex lines up front and flushed/replaced the brake fluid.
2010ELExpy4x4
Well-Known Member
I too learned the hard way, when we first got our 2010, didn't take to long to figure out,didn't even make it to the end of the driveway, taught me to pay closer attention when doing brakes though.
