42" Lightbar Installed

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SublimeHiPpOs

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I wonder how well it would work if you tapped into the high beam circuit to activate the lightbar. The Expy seems to do well with automatically activating/deactivating them, it would be cool it it worked well with a lightbar too. I'd definitely want to still have a toggle switch for times you don't want it on, even when the high beams are on.
 

Big H

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Big H,
I love your set up. Just looked it up. $340.00 is super cheap compared to Baja Design or Rigid. I was going to get the LGE-CTS bar that goes in the lower grill insert, but was concerned with the cooling since I tow all the time. This looks like a great place to have a good light, easy install and not a huge impact on airflow. Great find. Ordered one up. Thanks.


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Thx Fozzy.

I did a bit of research on Rigid but found this Palladian light to be better for my mounting and application. I also wanted the remote and strobe function.

Airflow was important to me since I am running the 5Star tune, and summer heat. I was able to route the wire in front of the air dams and under the Right headlight.

Next up will be the hood mounted cube lights they have for $190. Hopefully they mount as easily as the light bar.


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Fozzy

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Thanks to BigH I just received my 36” light bar. It was packaged nice and secure. It’s a complete kit, even has a few zip ties. Build quality is pretty good. Wire harness is 14 gauge. Should be 10-12, but for this small light it will be fine. The best part is the curve of the bar fits perfect. I put it on my 17’ Superduty and the Expy and they have the same curve. This light is for a F-150. Kinda funny all three have the same radius front lip on top of the bumper. Hopefully I get time over Christmas to install it and see how it performs.
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sjwhiteley

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What makes you think you need 12 gauge wire? I can’t see the light pulling more than a couple of amps, in which case 16 gauge (or even 18/20) is more than plenty. Is it a high ampage light?
 
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RANDAL CHAO

RANDAL CHAO

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Just a reminder that the top part of plastic platform is not level, with a slight downward angel to the front. You might need an angled spacer/washer I didn't realize that until afterward.

Also since it is hollow inside, if you do bother to take off the front bumper, I would suggest put a plastic spacer to fill in between top/bottom layer.

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Fozzy

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What makes you think you need 12 gauge wire? I can’t see the light pulling more than a couple of amps, in which case 16 gauge (or even 18/20) is more than plenty. Is it a high ampage light?

Most high end off road light manufacturers recommend 12 gauge wire. Long wire runs, sunset to sunrise operation and a more robust cable. Why not? China lights often have way less. I have not cut the harness off yet, but the fuse wire is 14, it may get smaller. If I remember right the math would be 180w/12v=15a. Not 2a. 14 is fine, but the light is 3 times the cost of an Amazon one and way cheaper compared to a BD or Rigid. The fit to the bumper and grill is what sold me. Hope to use it as a driving light. So it doesn’t need to be a crazy BD light.


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Big H

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Most high end off road light manufacturers recommend 12 gauge wire. Long wire runs, sunset to sunrise operation and a more robust cable. Why not? China lights often have way less. I have not cut the harness off yet, but the fuse wire is 14, it may get smaller. If I remember right the math would be 180w/12v=15a. Not 2a. 14 is fine, but the light is 3 times the cost of an Amazon one and way cheaper compared to a BD or Rigid. The fit to the bumper and grill is what sold me. Hope to use it as a driving light. So it doesn’t need to be a crazy BD light.


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Hey Fozzy,

It’s super bright man, it literally lights up the length of a football field. It overpowers the led high beams on my truck, and is a whiter light output; between 5000-5500K.

I get flashes from oncoming traffic all the time if I forget to switch it off lol I actually angled it down for that reason.


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Big H

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Just a reminder that the top part of plastic platform is not level, with a slight downward angel to the front. You might need an angled spacer/washer I didn't realize that until afterward.

Also since it is hollow inside, if you do bother to take off the front bumper, I would suggest put a plastic spacer to fill in between top/bottom layer.

View attachment 39283

That’s correct, I backed my bolts with SS washers about the size of a quarter and used two retaining bolts; one plain and another that was self locking (with that plastic stuff in center). Also used longer bolts than were provided to go through 2 levels of the bumper. A bit of overkill but worth the headache.


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