How to remove factory front rotors

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jeff kushner

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Hope this helps those who have never done it.

The factory stock rotors are not drilled for removal bolts as the new ones are.

After watching You Tubes where the best advice was "Hit it with the biggest hammer you've got", I went back to proper mechanics.

There are those that will tell you to strike them to loosen them. I will not. I also try to avoid spraying any lube (such as PB Blaster) in the area of brakes. I like my brakes to work; every, single, time!

Eliminate all doubt for 10 bucks.

Buy 2 1/2" case-hardened bolts 4" long
Buy 2 1/2" case-hardened nuts
Buy 6-8 1/2" washers (they are spacers and do not to be hardened)

Using the caliper bolt holes, slide the 1/2" bolt through, slip on 3-4 washers, then the nut and while holding back on the nut, tighten the bolt till you hear "ping" from the rotor, rotate the hub and continue till loose.

Works perfectly.....no fuss, no swearing and Kerry, who helped, still loves me!


115K, no runs, no drips, no errors.........ever.



jeff


Items failed;

Console spring.
 

Trainmaster

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This has worked for me many times. One time though it broke the caliper ear off the spindle. Just be gentle or you'll hear that sickening click that cast iron makes when it cracks.

Honestly, I've resorted back to the sledge hammer since then.
 

Yupster Dog

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Have also done
You got to take it slow
But it works great.
 

mjp2

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This has worked for me many times. One time though it broke the caliper ear off the spindle. Just be gentle or you'll hear that sickening click that cast iron makes when it cracks.

Honestly, I've resorted back to the sledge hammer since then.
That was exactly my concern when reading that post.

Honestly, a combination of the two techniques would likely be ideal. Use the bolts to put a little pressure on the back of the rotor and then tap the rotor with a hammer to vibrate things loose.
 

ManUpOrShutUp

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I've used a similar approach to removing machine bushings without a press, but I stick with the mallet or sledge for the rotors.
 

Trainmaster

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Remember to use the nickel anti-seize on the new rotors. Just took the rear rotors off a Jeep yesterday. Beat them with a 15# sledge for a minute.
 
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Yupster Dog

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The caliper slide is not really strong enough for that type of pressure.
Maybe, but it doesn't matter if you are changing "the caliper slide" as well.

When i had exhausted all my tricks to get the rotors off I came across the bolt method. The first thing i did was go buy some caliper brackets.(the caliper slide)

There is no chance I use this bolt method and not replace the caliper brackets. I thought that was a gimmy smh

All I know is For all the trouble of trying to bust those rotors off and nothing but a days work and a back ache to show for it, $20 for brackets was well worth it. I would have paid triple just to get them rotors off.
 

Motorcity muscle

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Big hammer is going to still be the best option. The caliper slide is not really strong enough for that type of pressure.
Have to agree, could put stress cracks in caliper brackets and not notice until it's to late. Just did wife's Explorer brakes Friday, under 36,000 miles, would have thought the rotors were welded on. Replaced all rotors so it didn't matter if they took a few blows from a hand sledge.
 
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