Fuse to tap dashcam?

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Lou Hamilton

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Hi Lou, is everything still working good with those fuse choices? I'm looking at installing a Blackvue 900S with the Power Magic Pro and it need both constant and switched. Thanks!

Yes. No issues at all. I just used my heated steering wheel the other day and it worked as did the camera.

I would recommend those two fuses to anyone looking for the fuse box method versus the mirror tap.


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Dice Roll

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My fuse tap to the heated wheel hasn’t worked out. I’ve got the keyed power I need for the dvd. Now the wheel doesn’t heat up. Light comes on the button and also the icon on the infotainment comes on.

but no wheel heat at all, not intermittent. I read some on this and haven’t tried anything yet, but one thing I saw was to use the same size fuse for both places on the fuse tap. Leaves you open to problem if dvd pulls more amps though since it takes like 5 and. It the 20 for the wheel.

other thing might be polarity of the fusetap is wrong. Not sure on that, and not sure it would fit in the Sides of fuse box turned over.
 

Dice Roll

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Anybody else have problems getting the wheel heat to work when tapping that Fuse? I have my DVD players working fine, but the wheel heat won’t come on. I do get the button light and the dash icon for the wheel when I push it though.
 

Lou Hamilton

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I use the heated steering wheel fuse location with my dash cam. I am using a fuse tap that came with the dash cam “kit”. If I remember, I will post a pic of how it is connected tomorrow.


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Tocapet

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Some dashcams run off 5 volts. The adapter is in the plug that goes into your cig lighter. If you have a USB in your expy, that will give you 5 volts.
 

StealthyBulldog

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Finally took a couple pics of my setup, forgot to take pictures of the fuse taps, but used the same as @Lou Hamilton , been installed for almost 3 months now, no problems. Heated wheel still works. It's a Blackvue DR900S, with the Blendmount mounting attachment. I also installed the Blackvue Power Magic Pro hardwired kit. Mounted the box in the passenger foot well (right above where their feet are directly below the glove box) not visible, still accessible. Here's a few pics

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5280tunage

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For future sake, I used one of these kits. you have to pay very close attention to securing the taps, and they are made of such hi gauge wire they are quite brittle, but once you get them in place and secure them with a zip tie, they work great. I have mine connected to both a radar detector and a dash cam. The dash cam, since it operates on USB at 5V's, I had to use a 12V to 5V convertor from the manufacturer, which I simply attached to the windshield in the blackout region with double sided tape. The radar detector is 12V, with a direct RJ11 connection, so it was pretty simple. Both work great and are on a switched circuit, making it nice and easy. They have different wire kits for different uses as well.

ESCORT,Passport IX Radar Detector Direct Mirror Power Cord (MP-ESCT) | eBay
 

thepennster

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Yes. No issues at all. I just used my heated steering wheel the other day and it worked as did the camera.

I would recommend those two fuses to anyone looking for the fuse box method versus the mirror tap.


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I know this is an old thread, but wanted to thank you for identifying #16 for constant power. I'm a little late to the dashcam game, but I am glad I cam across your post. Quick question - I ended up getting the same camera that you did, and the fuse tap kit came with a 20A fuse. #16 is 15A, and my understanding is that the fuse going to the camera has to be smaller than the original fuse. What size fuse did you end up putting in for the camera? I read 5A should be enough, but wanted to make sure.
 
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username

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I know this is an old thread, but wanted to thank you for identifying #16 for constant power. I'm a little late to the dashcam game, but I am glad I cam across your post. Quick question - I ended up getting the same camera that you did, and the fuse tap kit came with a 20A fuse. #16 is 15A, and my understanding is that the fuse going to the camera has to be smaller than the original fuse. What size fuse did you end up putting in for the camera? I read 5A should be enough, but wanted to make sure.
It may be an older thread but I found it useful as well. I used #37 for accessory but had to use #29 for constant power as my trim doesn't use #16. From what I read, a 5A should be more than enough - I actually see some recommend as low as 1A or 2A fuses.
 

Fastcar

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I've mounted radar detectors under my mirror for years. There is plenty of room to tie in a fuse using an invisa wires. Use a meter to grab a hot side of a interior light above the mirror and there ya go. No need to run back to the box.
 

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