2004 shakes violently when braking

Wife's 05 did same thing turned out to be colapsed hose from frame to caliper.replaced both sides fixe I did same thing new pads calipers rotors, stilll shook the hole truck hoses fixed it.

If you had a stuck caliper, you likely also had heat damage to rotor and possibly the ABS sensor. On my 2001 at 90K miles I had a sticky right rear caliper so I replaceable the rear calipers and ALL of the brake hoses, front and rear. I also had a right rear axle seal leak as a result.

What mileage do you have on your rig? If it's up towards 200k it could be that the steering box needs an adjustment. You can usually see the signs of that when it's building up play in the steering wheel. That will definitely shake the whole vehicle violently when applying brakes. -Do you have a friend that can help you push one of the front wheels back and forth while you do the same with the other front wheel? Any suspension play from a worn front end part should show up with movement. A way to check for warped front brake rotors is to figure out a way to rigidly attach a screwdriver so it's just about to touch the outer surface at 90 degrees. As you turn the wheel clockwise or counter, the 'warp' will easily show up as the screwdriver touches or moves away from the rotor surface. Rotors and brake pads should always be replaced in pairs. If only one side has been replaced that can easily cause one wheel assembly to grab before the the other causing a vicious shake. Nico

You're probably aware of this, but the cheap replacement or slotted performance rotors that are typically sold on Ebay will develop cracks, easily warp, etc.

tilliepeople said:

But wouldn't that tend to make the steering wheel shake also .

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Had the BAD shake on my 04... Could have sworn it was the front rotors... IT TURNED OUT TO BE THE REARS ! No shake in the steering but the vehicle shake was SEVERE !!! Been fixing my own stuff for DECADES ! This one shocked the S out of me !!! On another note... Check all your Brake lines !!! They love to rust out and BLOW !!! I had to change EVERY LINE after 2 seperate close calls ! The one that runs across under the engine to the passenger front was the worst ! At the age of your truck this is a MAJOR concern... Custom cut all new lines using copper coated nickel brake line... To those who point you to an ABS Sensor HEADS UP If the sensor is shot the wheel bearing/hub is guaranteed right behind it ready to go... You put a new sensor in and it fails within a month ! The Wobble is almost undetectable but enough that the sensor gets ground up by the hall effect vane inside the hub scraping on it... The hubs are a **** to remove !

I agree with collapsed brake lines and if you have drum brakes on the rear then I would check to make sure that the primary and secondary shoes aren't installed backwards. Dont know if thev offered rear drum brakes in 04 or not but if so check it out

i had a jeep with a similar issue .... i simply pulled the ABS fuse. Yes the abs light was on and no abs but the brakes worked fine after that. It may be a good test for you. Wont hurt anything for sure. and gotta get your code scanned out.

I bought a decent OBD2 scanner but it seems my connector does not work.
Is there a fuse for it or were should i look for a problem .
Thank you
Bill

What code reader did you buy ? They all require the ignition to be in the RUN position to access the PCM and read the codes.

Any Fuses on that '04 are on the PASSENGER SIDE... You have to pull away the hard plastic "Kick Wall" just in front of the front passenger door... I posted about the rear shake and abs problem for you back in December... I had an '04 new till 240k can tell you a lot... Some of the scanners don't do abs or active restraint diagnostics... You can go to a FRIENDLY autoparts store and they may be able to help you out... I went to a friends shop where the mechanic had a scanner that did abs and thats how I found which sensor was gone... WHY YOUR scanner doesn't work is a mystery ? There are quite a few fuses under that kick plate ! I suggest you use a test light and not just looh at the fuses... MAKE SURE YOU TURN THE IGNITION ON !!! ground the test light clip lead and check for power at BOTH contact points where they protrude through the plastic grab handle/amp marker it's faster then pulling every fuse... The key has to be on for the scanner to work and so through the fuse IF THERE IS ONE... As I said in my previous post my abs sensor went bad and changed it... Fixed for a couple of weeks and failed again... I was told ANY MINOR skew in the wheel bearing will cause the notched trigger wheel inside to just slightly rub on the sensor itself grinding at it making it fail... Soooo I had to change out the hub itself which came with a new abs sensor... I purchases a MOOG Hub (better Quality) As for those parking brake shoes... They NEVER worked from new !!! If there's a ridge built up inside the combo rotor/drum in the rear and you expand them out in an attempt to get the parking brake to work, youll never be able to get the drum portion back over the shoes !!! HORRIBLE DESIGN as ther is no access hole in either the drum or backing plate to access the star adjuster !!! You might try an external cable adjuster/clamp to shorten the park cable... If you've got any other weird issues you can send me a pm on facebook... P e t e Rich ards... I'm in a Beret with 2 German Shepherds... Hope I could help... good luck... I liked the '04 so much that I bought a '14