Replacing Body Mounts

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peterwells

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Vehicle is a 2008 EL Eddie Bauer, 200 k miles. This is a straight forward job, just a couple of notes to add to what's on YouTube and in the forum.

There are five mounts per side, I numbered them #1 through #5 with #1 in front of the front wheel, #2, #3 and #4 between the wheels and #5 at the very back of the car. Here are the Ford PN...

1633311092614.png

Before taking things apart I thought all positions but #1 were in bad shape but in fact the two single piece mounts (positions #2 and #5) were not worn - it appeared there was rubber missing from the lower cup but in fact the new parts looked the same. The bolts on position #1 were pretty corroded, Dorman makes an aftermarket part for this unit, DORMAN 924064 (according to RockAuto), I didn't find any after market for the other positions.

I had two floor jacks and used two pieces of 4x4 approx 10" long cut square with some 6" long pieces of 2x4 to spread the load at the body, lift next to positions #2 and #4 where the body has stiffeners - I wouldn't try this job without two jacks. As others have noted, the nuts for the bolts are captivated and can break loose if you use an impact wrench, they were not hard to remove. Other tools you'll want, some good pry bars to separate the old #3 and 4 units, some Loctite (blue 242 or 243), wire brush to remove the old rubber and clean up parts.

Undo the bolts on positions #1 through #4 and then lift the trim in the trunk by the tail gate to expose the rubber plugs that cover the nuts attached to the position #5 bolt - I did not need a torx for the bolt. The only other note is that the rear bumper cover is attached with a plastic press stud to the chassis, so as you raise the body this gets stressed - remove the press stud before lifting the body - there may be a similar situation at the front of the car but I didn't change the #1 mount so didn't stress anything there. There is a grounding strap on the passenger side that also needs to be removed.

My #3 and #4 units were completely worn, non-existent, there was just the metal washers and a few pieces of crumbling rubber. There were some awful knocking sounds before changing the mounts, those knocks have gone and there are fewer squeaks.

The #3 and #4 parts will cost ~ $150 plus shipping.

Peter
 

RICHNARDONE

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Really appreciate this detailed information as my 2008 EL XLT with PXL_20211219_193735805.jpg260k miles needs these bushings replaced. My local shop declined performing the job for fear that they would break something off or get involved in something extensive after a broken bolt or broken nut cage. Maybe he's smarter than me, but I'm going to try it myself!
 

2011EL

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I was looking at those on my 2011 EL and wondering how to change them out. Thanks for providing some guidance on this. Looks like I have my next project...
 

2011EL

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Just ordered new body mounts from Tasca. Hopefully the installs go without too many issues.
 

TxCamper9

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Body mount replacement requires many small 2x4s and other lumber that you can place between the frame and the body when you jack up the body. Replacing the mounts and bolts is a great way to bring back that new car feel to the drive. Just be careful and take it slow. An extra set of hands is helpful.
 

Lynnii2

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Vehicle is a 2008 EL Eddie Bauer, 200 k miles. This is a straight forward job, just a couple of notes to add to what's on YouTube and in the forum.

There are five mounts per side, I numbered them #1 through #5 with #1 in front of the front wheel, #2, #3 and #4 between the wheels and #5 at the very back of the car. Here are the Ford PN...

View attachment 70626

Before taking things apart I thought all positions but #1 were in bad shape but in fact the two single piece mounts (positions #2 and #5) were not worn - it appeared there was rubber missing from the lower cup but in fact the new parts looked the same. The bolts on position #1 were pretty corroded, Dorman makes an aftermarket part for this unit, DORMAN 924064 (according to RockAuto), I didn't find any after market for the other positions.

I had two floor jacks and used two pieces of 4x4 approx 10" long cut square with some 6" long pieces of 2x4 to spread the load at the body, lift next to positions #2 and #4 where the body has stiffeners - I wouldn't try this job without two jacks. As others have noted, the nuts for the bolts are captivated and can break loose if you use an impact wrench, they were not hard to remove. Other tools you'll want, some good pry bars to separate the old #3 and 4 units, some Loctite (blue 242 or 243), wire brush to remove the old rubber and clean up parts.

Undo the bolts on positions #1 through #4 and then lift the trim in the trunk by the tail gate to expose the rubber plugs that cover the nuts attached to the position #5 bolt - I did not need a torx for the bolt. The only other note is that the rear bumper cover is attached with a plastic press stud to the chassis, so as you raise the body this gets stressed - remove the press stud before lifting the body - there may be a similar situation at the front of the car but I didn't change the #1 mount so didn't stress anything there. There is a grounding strap on the passenger side that also needs to be removed.

My #3 and #4 units were completely worn, non-existent, there was just the metal washers and a few pieces of crumbling rubber. There were some awful knocking sounds before changing the mounts, those knocks have gone and there are fewer squeaks.

The #3 and #4 parts will cost ~ $150 plus shipping.

Peter
Thank you for all the detailed list of part numbers. I was just watching a video on how the body mounts can be replaced.

I stared looking and couldn't find anything on rockauto just 1 set of mounts and that was it.

 

2011EL

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I stared looking and couldn't find anything on rockauto just 1 set of mounts and that was it.
I had the same issue. I had to look around as there were very few online stores that sold more than the #1 mount position. TascaParts.com will sell everything (OEM Motorcraft parts) at a solid price point (30-40% discount off MSRP). They also have the vehicle diagrams making it super simple to find the specific part(s) you need/want.
 

timo482

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the ford shop says some of them are stuck... how DO ifind the top of the bolt to drill it out? there are real clunks from the ones that are bad. the car has little rust, but some its the rear ones in front of the rear wheels that are stuck if im thinking correctly. thanks
 

Trainmaster

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the ford shop says some of them are stuck... how DO ifind the top of the bolt to drill it out?
If the "Ford Shop" is doing the job, they can find a real mechanic to drill them out. You would gently drill through the center of the bolt head from the bottom with increasingly larger drills and hopefully get it out with a left handed bit that's almost full sized... No fun, but a real mechanic does it every day.

It all depends on the rust and the mounting of the captured nut. There are many tricks, but some of them take some skill, experience, time and equipment.

Unfortunately it's often the kind of job that makes you wish you sold the thing.
 
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