Intermittent rough idle

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SDR93

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Maybe ok for Detroit where you live and in Canada where SDR93 lives, but down here in Texas I use 10w30 and the engine runs a lot more smoothly when hot and makes less phaser noise as evidenced in the drive through. It also reduces the start up chain slapping, I guess it doesn't bleed out of the tensioners as fast.

I'm changing all the timing components soon. Need to do it before it gets hot, which is only a couple of months away here in the South.
Out of curiosity, how much does it cost roughly for all of the components to complete the full timing job?
 

Dustin Gebhardt

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Out of curiosity, how much does it cost roughly for all of the components to complete the full timing job?
Here is the complete set from a Ford dealership in the US:

You will also need a set of valve cover gaskets (these fit my '07, but the design is different for other model years):

I also purchased a high volume, high pressure oil pump from melling.

I also ordered a few special tools to do this job:
 
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SDR93

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I used 5w20 oil when I changed the oil and it’s making the rough idle noises before and after the oil change.

I’m currently in the process of changing VVTs will post an update when I’ve completed the change and let you know if it’s resolved the problem or not.

Thanks for all the replies, appreciate it!
Update -

I changed both VVT solenoids and after doing so I took it for a long drive to test it out and it looked promising for a while but then the rough idle eventually happened again :-(. This aside I did find the car felt more responsive when I put my foot down.

I plan on keeping this car for around 18-20 months which is when I will leave the country, I’m not using it as a commuter so I doubt I’d do more than 15-20,000 miles in it. Is the rough idle a symptom of something worse that’s to come or is it possible that I can live with it and drive on and be able to squeeze a another year or so out of it? I paid 5000CAD for it so it wouldn’t be the end of the world if it’s not sellable by the end of my time here.
 

jeff kushner

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FWIW: in both of my V8 expys, I experienced rough idles..............really crappy idles......running your hand under the vac lines on the passenger side of the engine, there is a 90 deg bend in a 3/8 or 1/2" line, the heel of the 90 rests on top of the valve cover and well, melts over time...as your finger covers the bottom and hold position, nice idle returns....a couple of bucks.....
 
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SDR93

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FWIW: in both of my V8 expys, I experienced rough idles..............really crappy idles......running your hand under the vac lines on the passenger side of the engine, there is a 90 deg bend in a 3/8 or 1/2" line, the heel of the 90 rests on top of the valve cover and well, melts over time...as your finger covers the bottom and hold position, nice idle returns....a

Thanks for your message. I’ve had a little look but couldn’t pinpoint the exact part you mention, were your rough idles permanent or just intermittent and every so often when the engine is hot like mine?
 
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SDR93

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I have now changed VVT solenoids and Camshaft position sensors - intermittent rough idle still persists :,(
 

Goofy173

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Same problem here. 6 months ago I had everything on top and front changed at nearly $5k. Now the engine is basically toast and I've had it. Junking it.
 

JVinOlathe

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Any work you can do yourself will save you a lot of money, provide you know what you are doing.
Have you hooked up a scanner to see if there are any codes? In the US, most auto parts stores will run a scan for free and print a list of condition and solutions if applicable. A scanner is as valuable tool, if not more valuable than any tool you can get.
I am pretty good with cars but also, I am aware of my limitations. Throwing parts until one solves the issue is not a good way to approach the issue. Your best bet is to take it to a competent mechanic, familiar with the Expedition, and with the proper equipment, get an accurate diagnostic and go from there; in the long run it will end up being more efficient and much cheaper.
"If you think hiring a professional is expensive, try hiring an amateur." - Red Adair
 
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SDR93

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Any work you can do yourself will save you a lot of money, provide you know what you are doing.
Have you hooked up a scanner to see if there are any codes? In the US, most auto parts stores will run a scan for free and print a list of condition and solutions if applicable. A scanner is as valuable tool, if not more valuable than any tool you can get.
I am pretty good with cars but also, I am aware of my limitations. Throwing parts until one solves the issue is not a good way to approach the issue. Your best bet is to take it to a competent mechanic, familiar with the Expedition, and with the proper equipment, get an accurate diagnostic and go from there; in the long run it will end up being more efficient and much cheaper.
"If you think hiring a professional is expensive, try hiring an amateur." - Red Adair
I used the scanner that my work has and this is what it came back with, if any can make anything of it.

I’m a plumber/ boiler engineer by trade and find I am capable of doing the work myself as long as it doesn’t require specialist equipment that I don’t have, so doing the work isn’t the problem, the problem is I don’t know what work I’m meant to be doing to do to solve the issue I Haven’t spent a lot on these parts but I’ve invested a lot of time just been changing parts on hunches which so far hasn’t really worked.

Thanks for all the replies btw, really appreciate it.
 

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SDR93

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Same problem here. 6 months ago I had everything on top and front changed at nearly $5k. Now the engine is basically toast and I've had it. Junking it.
Damn that sucks.

I have been starting to wonder what would happen if I just left this issue as it’s an older car and the issue doesn’t seem too major or effect the performance but by the sounds it it’s a sign of something worse to come.

Was your issue identical?
Would just go in to a temporary rough idle after a long drive?
Did it throw up any codes?

Thanks
 
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