4 Wheel Auto Issue

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Wayne Decker

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I haven't tried Sport, but Tow/Haul is also very aggressive. You have great control, but it really eats gas. It would be nice to dial it down a bit.
 

Ted Kramer

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In Sport mode the transmission is stupid aggressive, so it upshifts hard and downshifts hard and holds RPM, and slams through the gears so you can hammer on it. I LOVE the suspension on the sport mode, but I absolutely HATE the transmission settings in Sport mode. It won't even shift into overdrive unless I get it over 66mph. At 65mph, I stays in 9th, and sucks fuel. If you have a non tow pack, I bet it stays in 9th until way over 70 mph.

Agree with Deadman. When I test drive in Sport, loved the suspension but the transmission and throttle response was tough to live with.


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16plati

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I think it’s just the aggressive gearing it holds while in sport mode. A lot of f150 guys have the same issue so they just buy a custom tune. That will make the gearing more aggressive but they can smooth out the shift so you don’t even feel it
 

Rezolution

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I sometimes use the Drive Mode rotary knob to put my 2018 Expedition in “Sport Mode”. Per the owner’s manual, Sport Mode increases responsiveness of the throttle and shifts, steering, and stability control, and puts the vehicle in 4-Wheel Auto, “4A”. I prefer the overall feel off the vehicle in this mode. However, when I then accelerate moderately from about 30 mph, the vehicle “bucks”, which feels very much like 1 or 2 cylinders are misfiring. The vehicle does the same thing (but to a lesser degree) when I use 4-Wheel Auto by just pressing the “4A” button. Maybe the clutch pack in the transfer case? Anyone else experience this issue?
Yes. I have this problem in 3rd gear in sport mode in 4A. If I change it to 2H I do not experience this. It's super annoying like something is slipping or bucking. The dealer is unable to explain it.
 

BMW2FORD

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Yes. I have this problem in 3rd gear in sport mode in 4A. If I change it to 2H I do not experience this. It's super annoying like something is slipping or bucking. The dealer is unable to explain it.
I was feeling a bucking in 4a Sport and tried 2a and it was 100% gone. Spark plugs were changed and no engine codes ever. I used the power distribution screen and could see as soon as I’d accelerate hard and the power was shifted to the front wheels that the bucking would happen. At that point, I started to drive in several of the 4wd modes and noticed it was way more pronounced in Sport but slightly there in other modes as well. I changed the transfer case fluid and rotated the tires front to rear with no cross and it 100% gone. I’m going to move the rear tires back to the front one at a time but think it’s a bad tire. Transfer case fluid was clean when changed.
 

Dworth

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Sport mode is how “normal mode” should be. I do not prefer to lug the engine, especially a turbo charged engine. Shifting is on point and stays in power band.
 

Rezolution

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I was feeling a bucking in 4a Sport and tried 2a and it was 100% gone. Spark plugs were changed and no engine codes ever. I used the power distribution screen and could see as soon as I’d accelerate hard and the power was shifted to the front wheels that the bucking would happen. At that point, I started to drive in several of the 4wd modes and noticed it was way more pronounced in Sport but slightly there in other modes as well. I changed the transfer case fluid and rotated the tires front to rear with no cross and it 100% gone. I’m going to move the rear tires back to the front one at a time but think it’s a bad tire. Transfer case fluid was clean when changed.
What do you mean by a bad tire? They spin the same regardless of whether the car is in 4a or 2h. I had my trans fluid changed out but didn't think to change the transfer case fluid. I wonder if that's the issue... Interestingly enough I never had the issue with factory tires (primacy). I swapped them out to defender ltx.
 

BMW2FORD

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What do you mean by a bad tire? They spin the same regardless of whether the car is in 4a or 2h. I had my trans fluid changed out but didn't think to change the transfer case fluid. I wonder if that's the issue... Interestingly enough I never had the issue with factory tires (primacy). I swapped them out to defender ltx.
Bad tire meaning one could be a slightly different diameter even though the same size and brand or have a shifting belt. When in the front on a 4wd or front wheel drive car, it’s easily felt and can also make the transfer case “Buck” when in 4wd. I’m going to check the rolling diameter when I have a chance or swap one to the front at a time.
 

Rezolution

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Bad tire meaning one could be a slightly different diameter even though the same size and brand or have a shifting belt. When in the front on a 4wd or front wheel drive car, it’s easily felt and can also make the transfer case “Buck” when in 4wd. I’m going to check the rolling diameter when I have a chance or swap one to the front at a time.
That must be my issue then. I found that when my tires got hot, I had 45lb in the front passenger and 40lb in the front driver. I leveled the pressure out and the issue is now gone almost 100% of the time. I had one day it still did it a little bit but it's almost completely gone now with the air balanced. I probably have one bad tire and I never noticed the bucking in 3rd/sport4wd until the dealer rotated my tires at the last oil change.
 
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