Stuck Rotors

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chucks97expy

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I used a grinder, was the only way for me. Soaked mine in oil, I tried the bolt trick through the caliper mounting holes, no good. I beat on it with a sledge hammer and nothing but chunks of metal came off. I read online that a guy used a grinder with a cut off wheel and I did the same. Cut the damn things in half, across the face of the rotor. Had to be careful not to go to deep as the wheel hub sits behind it and use protective eye wear, the sparks are insane. Nuclear warheads LOL....if I had it I would have used it!
 

thenaaks

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You have to be careful with the bolts through the caliper mount. I cranked so hard on mine that I actually bent it out of shape. Tried everything in the world, including heating, oiling, cutting with a grinder, and welding big beads onto it trying to break the bond. Finally wound up pulling out the hub bearing and rotor together. All that beating can't be good on the rest of the suspension and drivetrain.
 

BAD RONALD

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...All that beating can't be good on the rest of the suspension...

I always thought about this whenever I raised a sledge. It is the reason I was impressed by splitting the offending rotor over beating on it beyond comfort level. A grinder slit, sawzall cut or line of holes drilled can be wedged using a heavy chisel and way less force to break the bond.
 

splintrcel

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I had this happen to one of my front rotors. There are certain things you have to do before a project can be completed. Sacrifices must be made to the car gods in the form of cursing before anything will get done. The more cursing the better. That or a mapp gas torch is your best friend because it loosens up rust and locktite. Heat up the rotor where it makes with the spindle assm and take a metal hammer (not like a nail hammer but one that has some mass) and smack around the edges till it comes off. It may take several repetitions. Either the rotor will come off or the steel will crack apart and then the rotor still comes off, but in pieces. You can fix this issue in the future by buying higher quality rotors made of better alloys that inhibit rust and by putting some WD-40 on the contact surface. I live in WI so I have plenty of issues with stupid rust but not since i have been using plenty of anti seize and WD-40.
 

BAD RONALD

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Anti-seize is vital I agree.

WD-40 should not be thought of as anything more than a cleaner or penetrant.
 

2011EL

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Finally wound up pulling out the hub bearing and rotor together.
That statement just blew my mind. No joke. I beat the crap out of one of my rear rotors for two days last weekend to no avail. I've spent the last week watching tons of videos with tips that haven't worked for me. I actually removed the 4 hub bolts and NEVER thought to simply pull the whole thing out at once. I'm replacing both the hub and rotor anyway. I think it was the Houston heat that got to me. I will be trying this method first thing Sat morning!!
 

JasonH

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That statement just blew my mind. No joke. I beat the crap out of one of my rear rotors for two days last weekend to no avail. I've spent the last week watching tons of videos with tips that haven't worked for me. I actually removed the 4 hub bolts and NEVER thought to simply pull the whole thing out at once. I'm replacing both the hub and rotor anyway. I think it was the Houston heat that got to me. I will be trying this method first thing Sat morning!!

I'm embarrassed to say it, but I had my emergency brake on the first time I replaced my rear rotors. They were much easier to pull with the brake OFF for obvious reasons. Harbor freight has a three-jaw puller that does the job. Sometimes heating the rotor hat with a hand torch may help as well. Metal obviously expands, and not necessarily at the same rate.
 
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