Engine ticking, poor MPG

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MC775

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Hello everyone! From this monday I'm an owner of 2006 Ford Expedition with 5,4l Triton engine. I was looking for a Chevy GMT800 Tahoe or Suburban for almost a month but I couldn't find any in an acceptable shape. Because of that I get interested in the Ford Expedition, and I was able to find one in a mint condition. It has only 99k original miles and seems to be very well maintained.

So after I've bought it and drove about 250 miles I realized that I can hear an annoying ticking sound inside the cabin. The sound reminds me a bit a sound of an old Singer sewing machine or simply a diesel injectors noise. The ticking speeds up with the engine RPMs and intensifies with the engine temperature (I can barely hear it after a cold engine startup). I have no other truck to compare with, but after 250 miles I think my truck acceleration is to weak and fuel economy is bad - I get about 12 MPG 80% hwy/20% high traffic city. There also are some DTC codes, I'm attaching them at the end of my post. There are no other issues, engine starts up fine, idles smoothly, no vibrations, no missfires. Engine oil pressure builds up immediately after startup.

At this point I must admit that I read a ton of topics similar to mine on the internet - most people would say that my cam phasers are gone. It might be, but there is one more thing: a previous owner performed a huge maintenance service about 600 miles before I bought the truck. Things that were done:

1. Timing set with a new phasers
2. Exhaust manifold gasket
3. New alternator
4. New set of spark plugs
5. New camshaft position sensor
6. I can see some new grounds wires undere the hood
7. Fresh oil and oil filter (I don't know the vishocity though, I can also see that the filter is an aftermarket one)

Previous owner told me, that a technician who worked on the engine decided to pull it out of the truck to have a better access to all components. I want to diagnose the problem properly before I start throwing money on the parts that might be good. I don't know quality of the parts they used for maintenance, and the quality of their job. The first thing I will do is to change the oil and filter. I bought Motorcraft 820-s filter and high quality 5W-30 fully synthetic oil. I'll check if spark plugs are not loose and look for any exhaust leaks. Knowing that the engine was out of the truck I also must check all electrical connectors - maybe they forget to plug in something. What else can I do to diagnose it? Do you have any suggestions? I'm a bit interested in the alternator replacement job - since it is new, maybe it produces any noise that may affect sensors on the truck? Any clues will be very helpful for me.

Regards,

MC

============1============== P0193 Raw code: 0193 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor - high input Ford: Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input ============2============== P0340 Raw code: 0340 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Camshaft position (CMP) sensor A, bank 1 - circuit malfunction Ford: Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction ============3============== P0344 Raw code: 0344 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Camshaft position (CMP) sensor A, bank 1 - circuit intermittent Ford: Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent Edge Products 1080 S. Depot Dr. Ogden, UT 84404 888-360-3343 www.edgeproducts.com Ford DTC Codes 6 ============4============== P2196 Raw code: 2196 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1 - signal stuck rich ============5============== P2198 Raw code: 2198 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 2 - signal stuck rich ============6============== B1318 Raw code: 9318 ECU: Dashboard[Archive (inactive)] Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory Ford: Battery Voltage Low; BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW ============7============== U1900 Raw code: D900 ECU: Dashboard[Archive (inactive)] Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory Ford: CAN Communication Bus Fault; CAN COMMUNICATION BUS FAULT - RECEIVE ERROR
 

2020FordRaptor

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Hello everyone! From this monday I'm an owner of 2006 Ford Expedition with 5,4l Triton engine. I was looking for a Chevy GMT800 Tahoe or Suburban for almost a month but I couldn't find any in an acceptable shape. Because of that I get interested in the Ford Expedition, and I was able to find one in a mint condition. It has only 99k original miles and seems to be very well maintained.

So after I've bought it and drove about 250 miles I realized that I can hear an annoying ticking sound inside the cabin. The sound reminds me a bit a sound of an old Singer sewing machine or simply a diesel injectors noise. The ticking speeds up with the engine RPMs and intensifies with the engine temperature (I can barely hear it after a cold engine startup). I have no other truck to compare with, but after 250 miles I think my truck acceleration is to weak and fuel economy is bad - I get about 12 MPG 80% hwy/20% high traffic city. There also are some DTC codes, I'm attaching them at the end of my post. There are no other issues, engine starts up fine, idles smoothly, no vibrations, no missfires. Engine oil pressure builds up immediately after startup.

At this point I must admit that I read a ton of topics similar to mine on the internet - most people would say that my cam phasers are gone. It might be, but there is one more thing: a previous owner performed a huge maintenance service about 600 miles before I bought the truck. Things that were done:

1. Timing set with a new phasers
2. Exhaust manifold gasket
3. New alternator
4. New set of spark plugs
5. New camshaft position sensor
6. I can see some new grounds wires undere the hood
7. Fresh oil and oil filter (I don't know the vishocity though, I can also see that the filter is an aftermarket one)

Previous owner told me, that a technician who worked on the engine decided to pull it out of the truck to have a better access to all components. I want to diagnose the problem properly before I start throwing money on the parts that might be good. I don't know quality of the parts they used for maintenance, and the quality of their job. The first thing I will do is to change the oil and filter. I bought Motorcraft 820-s filter and high quality 5W-30 fully synthetic oil. I'll check if spark plugs are not loose and look for any exhaust leaks. Knowing that the engine was out of the truck I also must check all electrical connectors - maybe they forget to plug in something. What else can I do to diagnose it? Do you have any suggestions? I'm a bit interested in the alternator replacement job - since it is new, maybe it produces any noise that may affect sensors on the truck? Any clues will be very helpful for me.

Regards,

MC

============1============== P0193 Raw code: 0193 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor - high input Ford: Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input ============2============== P0340 Raw code: 0340 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Camshaft position (CMP) sensor A, bank 1 - circuit malfunction Ford: Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction ============3============== P0344 Raw code: 0344 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Camshaft position (CMP) sensor A, bank 1 - circuit intermittent Ford: Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent Edge Products 1080 S. Depot Dr. Ogden, UT 84404 888-360-3343 www.edgeproducts.com Ford DTC Codes 6 ============4============== P2196 Raw code: 2196 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1 - signal stuck rich ============5============== P2198 Raw code: 2198 ECU: Engine control unit Status: Confirmed OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 2 - signal stuck rich ============6============== B1318 Raw code: 9318 ECU: Dashboard[Archive (inactive)] Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory Ford: Battery Voltage Low; BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW ============7============== U1900 Raw code: D900 ECU: Dashboard[Archive (inactive)] Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory Ford: CAN Communication Bus Fault; CAN COMMUNICATION BUS FAULT - RECEIVE ERROR
Well you have a 5.4L 3v and on my 2003 F150 5.4L 2v, that clicking sound is from the rocker arms, a common fail place for the 5.4L. This should help:

 

mr_dave

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Here's my experience. Mine was bad rocker arm(s) and cam on the passenger side.

 
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MC775

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Thank you for the replies. I heard about faulty rocker arms, but at this moment I hope it is something else. I'm also not sure if faulty rocker arms would set camshaft position sensor code. Tomorrow I'll try to change the oil with the original Motorcraft filter, I'll see if it helps with ticking noise.
 
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MC775

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OK, so I've done some work on the truck but the problem is not resolved. The first thing was an oil change. I put a new Motorcraft filter and high quality 5W-30 synthetic oil, and ticking noise is slightly quieter than before, but it still exists. I would say it is acceptable right now, but it still bothers me. Old oil wasn't so dirty, no metal or plastic particles in it.


The second thing I've done was an electrical issues inspection. I swapped camshaft position sensors (bank1 to bank2) but DTCs P0340 and P0344 were still there. After that I've removed a plastic shield/pipe on the sensor wire harness and bingo - I found a broken wire that connects bank1 camshaft position sensor, so I soldered it putting about 2 inches of a new wire. Check Engine light dissapeared along with all DTC codes, so I took a truck for a test drive. For about 5 miles it was driving well, I have a feeling that it had a better acceleration and according to the onboard computer data way better fuel economy. However after 5 miles of driving I braked with the engine (took a leg from the accelerator pedal) and it started misfiring on cylinder 8 and set a DTC code for bank2 camshaft position sensor. I checked spark plug on cylinder 8 and it was in a good shape, torqued properly, I swapped coils between cylinder 4 and 8, but it was still misfiring. The only thing to prevent it from missfiring on cylinder 8 was to disconnect bank2 CMP. So now my only step before I start a job with timing or lash adjusters is to replace the CMP sensor for a new one and check it out.
 

mr_dave

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I'd bet money that your timing chain tensioner gaskets failed, causing low oil pressure to the heads, causing insufficient oil pressure for camshaft VCT solenoids to function properly, and ultimately causing rocker arm failure.
 

SafariGoneWrong

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I'm sorry to hear you're having these problems. I did phasers, timing chains, guides, tensioners, water pump, lash adjusters, oil pump and roller followers in 2017 at 100K miles and passenger exhaust manifold this spring at 120K mi. Both jobs are tedious, time consuming and require lots of attention to detail. I've got the Ford 2-volume shop manual set and highly recommend all owners get a copy. Thoughts:

- For the bank 1 / passenger exhaust manifold, I had to lift the engine off its right mount using an engine lift cross bar and followed the Ford procedures. The danger I found is the engine harness will pinch between the right rear valve cover and firewall if you don't consciously move it while lifting the engine. Good chance it can get mangled...do a visual inspection of the engine harness and look for distortion. Also, I kinda recall having to relax/disconnect the harness to the Bank 1 CMP sensor when lifting the engine. The engine doesn't have to come all the way out for exhaust manifolds.

- Exhaust manifold gaskets on these engines leak due to manifold warping and will likely crack over time. The #4 cylinder port on mine was about 0.025" recessed from cylinders 1-3. Use OEM manifolds. The manifold has been revised by Ford since '06 (has a '09 part number I think).

- If the replacement phasers and timing set aren't Motorcraft, I'd do the entire job again with OEM parts. While in there, replace the oil pump. Ford Tech Makuloco on YouTube recommends the Melling M360 and Jasper puts these on their reman engines. I put the M360 on my 5.4 but if I did it today, I'd go with the Melling M340HV (higher volume supposedly but at OEM pressure. The M360 has a higher pressure relief spring).

- While doing timing components at 100K mi, I found two roller followers on the right bank going bad, and this is a well maintained, good looking engine internally without cam lobe or bearing wear. I used Melling roller followers and lash adjusters but if doing over I'd go OEM. I've got a dinking/tapping sound that comes and goes from the right bank now when the engine is cold, but quiet when warm. Will be pulling the valve cover off soon for cam removal and replacement of lash adjusters and phaser.

- There's a Ford Tech Video on the 5.4 3V VCT system and they insist failure of the timing chain tensioner seals doesn't affect oil pressure to the cylinder head and VCT components. They call it a "myth" and go on to say the tensioner seals serve only as a "dam" to prevent timing chain rattle on startup.

Highly recommend getting ForScan Lite for iOS/Android with a compatible bluetooth adapter. You can see so much of what the PCM is seeing and commanding.

-Dave
 
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MC775

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Hello, thank you for your answers. So far, I did some more investigation on the truck and have some new thoughts and questions. Firstly, after reading a ton of forums and watching FordTechMaculoko on YT I know that disconnecting CMP sensors cause a sort of "limp mode" for the engine and variable timing system is shut off. That is why the CMP plug was cut off in my truck - previous owner wanted to fool me (or his mechanic tried to fool the owner, never mind). At this moment I drive with VCT solenoids unplugged and both cam sensors plugged in. It is throwing VCT solenoids codes, what is obvious since they're unplugged, but no other codes than that. I have also a subjective feeling that the truck is a little more powerful and runs smoother, but maybe it is just my feeling. Ticking remained, but it is quieter, especially on idle.

My plan is to order a pair of new, upgraded OEM VCT solenoids and see if it helps. It looks like one of the phasers can't be advanced properly. I'm not a professional mechanic or a diagnostic, but I did one experiment. I've connected all the sensors and solenoids as it should be and started the truck with ForScan logging. It started OK, idle was smooth, I reved it a little bit and then I put it into D and accelerated, when I took my foot of the pedal the truck started missfiring and died. ForScan showed me that bank2 phaser went completely out of the scale some miliseconds before the engine died (screenshot below). This makes me think that when the PCM commands a timing advance the bank2 can't be advanced properly. So phaser at this bank may be bad or VCT solenoid can't hold the pressure properly.

Anyway, I want to perform a full timing job, but I would like do this in 3 - 4 months, so I hope a new VCT solenoids will help. When it comes to the parts quality I've spoke on the phone with a previous owner, and he told me the name of the timing brand they put it... it is some chinese crap. Fortunately it turned out that they did not replace the phasers, so there should still be OEM ones. I already bought Melling timing chains, tensioners, slides and crankshaft gear. Now I must import OEM VCT solenoids from the US, and phasers. I think I will chose Melling phasers - so far I know they produce parts for Ford, so I think it will be a great choice.

Cheers,

MC

Screen: phaser on bank2 went completely out of the scale some miliseconds after I took my leg from the accelerator pedal.

1.JPG
 
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MC775

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I've got one more question. I've watched a lot of YouTube videos about timing replacement in this 5,4 engine, and especially those ones from FordTechMaculoko are very helpful. One thing he recommends is to remove cam followers on cylinders 1, 4, 5, 8 before removing the chains. In a video he is using a special spring compression tool, but other guy on YouTube shows that those cam followers can be pried by a flat head screw driver or a pry bar. Do you think is it safe to pry them instead of using the compression tool?

 

wk99

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I've got one more question. I've watched a lot of YouTube videos about timing replacement in this 5,4 engine, and especially those ones from FordTechMaculoko are very helpful. One thing he recommends is to remove cam followers on cylinders 1, 4, 5, 8 before removing the chains. In a video he is using a special spring compression tool, but other guy on YouTube shows that those cam followers can be pried by a flat head screw driver or a pry bar. Do you think is it safe to pry them instead of using the compression tool?

I'm currently working on my 2012 Expe timing job and I wouldn't advise prying the roller followers out with a screwdriver. I purchased the special tool (spring compressor) from Amazon and it's worth it. You don't want to risk damaging valve spring retainers or scoring the camshaft. I order all new 24 roller followers as he recommends changing them. I've inspected the old ones and they look great but it's just an extra precaution I guess and I'll be darned if I want to take the engine apart anytime soon after completing the job to replace them..lol. I'm also using the Melling metal tensioners since they don't have a gasket that will go bad. Tensioners are the weakest link of the timing components. Best of luck!
 
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