I have a 2010, 5.4 3V, Triton. I've been pulling a P0016 code for cam correlation to crankshaft. I spoke to a repair shop about the symptoms, diagnosis and what gets replaced. They strongly suggested that the phasers don't need to be replaced, but change timing chain, guides and tensioner, along with a high volume oil pump. Does it seem reasonable to not replace the phasers? Since this is a hefty bill, I'm trying to be sure that I'm educated enough to know what should be done. Thanks
Replace Cam Phasers or not on a 2010 5.4 3V Triton?
- Thread starter LarryN
- Start date
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Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will chime in.. but I would think with the phaser issues these motors have if they are replacing the timing chains it would be smart to replace the phasers with Ford phasers at the same time.
mcloven
Active Member
you need to find another shop. anyone who says not to replace them, while they are doing all the other work is nuts. its hardly any more work and not much more money and they are probably bad if you need chains, guides etc.
I'm no expert either but I'd recommend changing all of the timing components, cam phasers, vvt solenoids, chains, guides, and tensioners. I'm in the process of tackling the job for the very first time and it is tedious. I have a 2012 Expedition with 171,000 miles and this the second timing job. I paid almost $6k the first time and the dealer here quoted me $4400 this time and I said I'll just do it myself. I started watching this guy on youtube and he covers all things Ford including a step by step walk through on changing the timing on the 5.4 3V (https://www.youtube.com/@FordTechMakuloco). He recommends changing out all 24 roller followers too so I'm changing those as well. I ordered the Melling H360 high volume oil pump and the old 2V Melling metal ratcheting tensioners since the tensioners are the weakest link on the timing components. All in all I've spend $1200 on parts and tools (since I'm not a mechanic lol) but it is still far less thank $4400. Many recommend that you change all the components while you're in there so you run less risk of failure shortly after the job is done. Watch this guy's videos and it will enlighten you. I'll followup once the job is complete. I used to work on my own vehicles when I was younger and figure I can do a better job than most mechanics plus just something rewarding about doing the job yourself. He also posts links to all of the parts to order from Amazon. Aside from the Melling Oil pump he recommends using authentic Ford MoCo products. He discussed the metal tensioners and advised against them because of the ratcheting feature, thinking they stretch out the timing chain overtime and thinks that Ford went away from that design due to that reason. I think Ford went away from the metal tensioners to keep you coming back to the service department lol. Again the tensioners are the main reason the timing system fails. I'll keep you posted once complete. Best of luck.
Just to update everyone here. I just completed the job a couple of days ago and it fired right up after priming the new Melling M360HV oil pump. I did the following:
1) Replaced all 24 roller followers with the updated version that has a very small hole in them for oiling the valve train. (Tedious to install lol)
2) Opted for the Melling M360HV (also frustrating to get back on the crankshaft lol)
3) Opted for the Melling 5.4L 2V metal ratcheting tensioners (no pesky rubber seal to worry about blowing out)
4) Changed out my water pump and thermostat
5) Installed new spark plugs
Mind you this was the first time I'd ever been this deep inside my engine. I followed the Youtube tutorials and some printed instructions step-by-step. This is the second timing job on my 2012 Ford Expedition. I had a dealership complete a timing job about 4 years after I purchased it brand new and I just didn't want to fork over the cash this time around. The job is tedious and frustrating at times so I see why dealerships charge so much for the job. The local dealership quoted me $4500 for the job but I'm sure they wouldn't have installed some of the other components without extra cost so it was worth the labor. I'll admit I was nervous firing the engine for the first time. I turned over the engine a couple of times manually with a large socket wrench just to see if it still operated smoothly before I put the front engine cover and valve covers back on. I triple check to ensure I had the roller followers installed properly and everything torqued to spec.
The only scare I had after firing it up was a horrid grinding sound which I originally thought was one of the pulleys but turned out to be my power steering pump. I mistakenly disconnected the fluid supply line to the pump while taking it off the engine and it drained completely dry. I added fluid prior to starting the engine but I guess the fluid needed to work its way through the pump. Oh and I forgot to install my MAF sensor briefly and received a check engine light and horrible exhaust fumes..lol. Been driving it for a couple of days now and everything is running as well as new. I am still checking for fluid leaks (none so far) and adding antifreeze until all of the air pockets work their way out of the cooling system. I'd encourage anyone who can follow instructions and has the time, to do this job themselves and save tons of money. Plus there's something rewarding about doing a job like this on your own.
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superdave83
Member
@wk99 Thank you for this post. I was wondering if you did this job after you started noticing the symptoms. such as the ticking or the rattle at the starts with the check engine light. My 2013 with 165k miles on it is running fine for now, but I am considering doing the job BEFORE I have the issues occur. Wonder what your opinion is on that. I would like to keep this vehicle for a long time.
