Navigator ZF5 Manual Swap

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Laporterican

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I'm about to embark on swapping a ZF5 into my 2003 Navigator. Bought it for cheap with a bad tranny, happen to have a donor 2001 F250 w/ V10 and a ZF5 sitting behind my shop that my wife REALLY wants me to get rid of. Figured I'd save a little money, build a fun daily driver, and give me an excuse to finally get rid of the parts truck (originally bought it for the axles for my 1985 F350 crewcab and interior bits for my 1999 F350).

Photo Oct 11, 4 30 15 PM (1).jpg

I would never consider tackling this project without the excellent writeup from Bolt-on

I just happen to have the perfect combination of vehicles to make this fairly straightforward. The Navigator only has 140k, the interior is immaculate, I have full maintenance history, and the body is in extremely good shape for a 20 yr old vehicle, might as well drop a manual in it!

Biggest issues I'll need to tackle:
- Wiring - I'll have to sort through the harness to get my reverse lights , the neutral safety switch, and make sure I can still shift into low range
- Speed Sensor - This will be one of the hardest problems to solve. The 4R100 has a VSS, the ZF5 does not. I'll have to figure out a way to integrate one somewhere along the driveline
- Driveshafts - one will be longer and one will be shorter. I'll need to find a local shop that can do that for me.
- ECU - I'll most likely use 5-Star Tuning to work out any ECU bugs
- Interior - I'd really like to keep the interior looking factory, the shifter will have to be moved back 4-6in. Planning on a short-throw kit to reduce the throw, and fabricating linkage to move the shifter back to where the current console shifter is located.
- Pedal Assembly - According to the previous mentioned thread, the Super Duty pedal assemble will bolt right in with slight modification.
 
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Laporterican

Laporterican

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I got the 4R100 and transfer case out last week, tomorrow I'll work on unloading all the scrap metal and car parts out of the parts truck, pull the pedal assembly, pull the cab off with my tractor, and start getting the transmission and transfer case out.

Photo Jan 02, 11 30 04 AM.jpgPhoto Jan 02, 11 31 03 AM.jpg

I'm going to do a bunch of measuring and check to make sure every part will bolt up before I get too crazy. Count the splines of the output shaft...etc Once I know it'll work, I'll start ordering all the parts to make it happen! If it's not going to be as straightforward as I'm hoping, I'll spend the $2800 to have the 4R100 rebuilt. Luckily, I have a lift and a full fab shop, wouldn't begin to embark on a project like this, otherwise.
 
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Laporterican

Laporterican

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Finished pulling everything apart on parts truck, rounded up parts from local junkyards, measured, made many phone calls, powerwashed the ZF5 and T-case, cleaned the shop, and did some test fitment.

Found out the F250 Super Duty clutch pedal assembly won't work in the Navigator, there's not enough room to fit, and the firewall would need some extra holes. I'm trying to spend as little time as possible crammed under the dash drilling holes in the most awkward positions conceivable. Searched the interwebs and called all over the area to track down a clutch/brake pedal assembly from a 1997-03 F150. Found one at a salvage yard 40 miles away, they had it pulled and ready for pick up the same day for $150.

2023-01-11 - Photo Jan 11, 11 20 18 AM Navigator.jpg2023-01-11 - Photo Jan 11, 11 20 08 AM Navigator.jpg

Pulled the manual T-case off the parts truck with the shifter and all the linkage, I'll get that posted for sale, hopefully someone in the area wants to swap their Super Duty to manual-shift 4WD. With an extra hand from my dad, we yanked the V10 and ZF5 with my tractor. Pulled the tranny off and was extremely relieved with the Navigator T-case bolted right up without an issue. Spline, locating pin, and every bolt matched up perfectly :peace: Called around to get some quotes for shortening the front driveshaft and building a new one for the rear, I got phone-quotes from $275ea - $450ea. Looks like I'm driving over the border to WY for the more affordable option.

2023-01-10 - Photo Jan 10, 11 52 05 AM Navigator (1).jpg2023-01-10 - Photo Jan 10, 3 02 31 PM Navigator.jpg

I lowered the Navigator off the lift so I can gain more access (getting in and out of the front doors is a PITA when it's on the lift) for tearing the interior apart. I'll take out the front seats, center console, and pull the layers of sound deadening and carpet back to gain access to my future shifter hole and the firewall. I'll do the same under the hood while it's off the lift, looks like I'll need to pull the airbox and the brake booster/master cylinder to gain access to the firewall.

This afternoon I'm laying out every part, working on my list, and making a complicated RockAuto order, I'll end up with parts for my Navigator, 97-03 F150, and a 99-01 F250. Might as well replace the clutch, shifter bushings, master cylinder, slave cylinder, pedal bushings, and who knows what else...
 

riphip

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That will be a nice setup when you are finished!! Are you lifting the body & what clearance are you looking at??
To bad that bigger t-case wouldn't fit. You may want to get an aftermarket fuel tank. Those plastic tanks are known to crack on top and replacements are like hen's teeth.
Love the build and tractor is perfect!!!
 
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Laporterican

Laporterican

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That will be a nice setup when you are finished!! Are you lifting the body & what clearance are you looking at??
To bad that bigger t-case wouldn't fit. You may want to get an aftermarket fuel tank. Those plastic tanks are known to crack on top and replacements are like hen's teeth.
Love the build and tractor is perfect!!!
I really don't think there will be any clearance issues, the ZF5 is taller where the shift tower is, which will need to get cut out, but otherwise it should fit perfect. It's actually smaller than the 4R100. The T-case that came in the Navigator is also larger than the Super Duty's manual shift. I thought about using that, but didn't want to have to heavily modify, or completely take out the center console. I saw no way to make the manual shift work.

I'll make sure to take a look at the fuel tank while it's on the lift. I should probably look around to see what else I should do while it's under surgery!
 
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Laporterican

Laporterican

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All the parts are on the bench, pretty sure I have everything I need to get this project on to the next phase. I’m heading out to the shop to gut the interior in the front. I’ll be pulling both front seats, the entire center console, and will hopefully be able to roll the carpet and thick layer of sound deadening back far enough to gain access to my future hole in the floor.
 

riphip

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Should not take long to remove seats, console & carpet. So much just pops loose. Not as many screws as you may think. Took me longer to pull the console than both seats Carpet pealed back pretty easily. Pull the kick panels and threshold plates first if you have not already done this.
You've Got This!!!
 
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Laporterican

Laporterican

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Gutted the interior in the front, both seats, console, and the autoscum shifter. It's going to be TIGHT getting the shifter exactly where I want it, I'll definitely need to draw up an aluminum plate and get it laser cut. I'd do it at home, but my Bridgeport Mill is still running a 3-phase motor, I upgraded to dedicated 200A power in my home shop, still need to find a 240V motor for the old beast. All those wires hanging out are from a stereo install, I'll need to sort through that and find out what works and what can be removed, still debating if I should tackle that now...

2023-01-19 - IMG_5191519 Navigator.png2023-01-19 - IMG_5199 Navigator.png

I took a bunch of measurements of where the current shifter was in Neutral, I'll aim to have my manual shifter in the exact same spot. Hopefully a GearBanger from Wild Horses Broncos will work for moving the shifter, even if I have to slightly modify it, it's easier than starting from scratch. In the past, I've had companies send me components that weren't welded together yet, or just portions of a product, one of the many benefits of having a full fabshop and spending years in R&D and product development.

GearBanger-01 Navigator.jpgGearBanger-02 Navigator.jpg

Here's a parts list so far, and a couple components I'll most likely be ordering next week. It was awesome being able to order everything I need for the clutch and hydraulics in one kit from RockAuto.

Transfer Case Gasket: Fel-Pro #55484
Transmission Mount (ZF5): Pioneer #622971
Clutch & Brake Pedal Pad: Ford #B7A2457A
ZF5 Complete Clutch Kit: AMS #KIT1535
- AMS Self-Adjusting Clutch #07179
- AMS Clutch Master Cylinder #M0721
- AMS Slave Cylinder #S0721
- AMS Flywheel #167763

Tuner - 5 Star Tuning SCT X4, or, Edge Tuner (researching which is best for my application)
Driveshafts - Need to take them to Precision Driveline and Fab in Cheyenne
Exhaust - Once it's drivable I'll drop it off at the local muffler shop, might as well open it up for some extra hrspwrs
 
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Laporterican

Laporterican

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Should not take long to remove seats, console & carpet. So much just pops loose. Not as many screws as you may think. Took me longer to pull the console than both seats Carpet pealed back pretty easily. Pull the kick panels and threshold plates first if you have not already done this.
You've Got This!!!
It was pretty straightforward. Lots of overlapping plastic panels, it was a bit difficult to determine which panel was attached to what. Most importantly, I DIDN'T BREAK A SINGLE PIECE OF PLASTIC OR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR!!!! Should have time today to pull the kick panels, sill plates, and carpet. I'm going to try to leave the upper portion of the console around the stereo, I'll need to cut the hole from below. Should be easy with the lift. How many times do you think I'll pull it on and off the lift? :p
 

riphip

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Yeah, that will be a lot of moving, BUT you Do Have a Lift!!
A 220v to 3 phase converter may be a lot cheaper than a motor.
 
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