My 2013 does not have a filter external of the fuel tank. Rock auto indicated i had one, which I ordered, only to find my expedition didn't have one. Appears to be some different experiences out there, so best to look and follow the fuel line from the tank up and check yourself.
On my 2013 I changed out stock struts front and rear with napa branded assemblies, and added 2 inch spacers front and rear at same time. Front upper control arms contact coil at full droop, which drives me crazy. Once ball joints need replacing will try a aftermarket upper control arm for more...
Replacing the weather stripping that attaches to the body and seals against the door brought back that bit of popping open on my 2013. Only done the driver door thus far, cause I had a wind noise issue.
Do you have all of the plugs removed during your test? That will help remove strain on the battery and starter. And keep a charger on the battery during this process. Normally I'd crank until the gauge reaches its highest reading, normally takes a few seconds of cranking to do that.
What do you mean by wont stay in? Won't tighten up? Id suspect some of the aluminum threads came out with the bolt during removal. Does a different m6 bolt tighten up in that home? Damaged bolt hole threads can be fixed with a helicoil pretty easily if that's the issue.
Take a look at the mating connector, they are failure prone. Mine had a couple burned up terminals. Had to replace connector and controller and been fine after.
On topic of detroit axle - purchased a set of their strut assemblies, had shipped to house. They sent me parts for a different application than I purchased. Got that straightened out, but a year later one of the springs cracked, so I had to replace again. One person's experience, but that was...
Some of The followers on the passenger side had play in their rollers, so I replaced both pass and driver side followers. The cam journals are aluminum, cam is steel, only way to fully address is a new head. Play in mine was about .002, really just enough to feel move. I left as it was, but...
Did my 2013 at approx 110k. Had noise at startup rarely. In my case, both tensioner seals had failed and the pass side cam had started to wear in its journals. I replaced chains, guides, tensioners, roller followers, and added high volume oil pump. With parts and special tools I was in for...
Interested in a "real" indicator and tube as well. I did find that dorman has a steel pan with a drain plug for about 30 bucks on rock auto. Wish I had seen that before my fluid and filter change. Will add at next trans service to get the drain plug.
Understeer occurred with the t case locked up, but to what extent depends on the bias ratio of your specific unit. Torsendiffs are a great on off road compromise diff, and worked great with the H1 factory traction control. In the snow, t case unlocked, which is the normal on road selection...
My experience in torsen style front (and rear) diffs has been in commercial H1s. Super friendly on road, but that was with the t case in 4wd, unlocked front to rear. When I locked the T case up front to rear, it was a different experience. Not scary, but takes some getting used to.
Make sure you have the special tools for compressing the valve springs, pulling the crank pulley, and the crank alignment tool. If your changing your oil pump, go slow and don't drop those bolts. If you do pray a magnet on a stick will find them in the pan. I found the roller followers on the...
You'll prob need a puller for the crank pulley, valve spring compressor, and crank alignment tool. All unique to that motor. I like the cast ratcheting tensioners. No slack on startup. I used those on my 5.4 about 20k ago, along with the high volume stock pressure oil pump. Replaced all...
How many miles? Has it had a timing set replacement? My 2013 had noise on start at 80k. Both tensioners had failed seals. I changed it all, followers, and added a high volume pump. No noise afterward.
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