Instead of using a vacuum, I use this..
Black Label GM/Ford 3-Tab Power Bleeder 0118
However.. for beginers... Doing it the old fashion way is a good place to start learning...
hmm... Looks lke we are looking in the wrong places.. Know of anyone with a Steelman Wireless Chassis Ear? This will help to identify exactly where the noise is coming from..
Best to have another set of ears to isolate the location... You may want to just crawl under and start banging the muffler, heat shield, or whatever is in area..
Wait.. When you spun the wheel, was it with the motor on or off.. When the motor is on, vacuum will pull the hub actuator gears away from the half shaft, thus the front diff will not in anyway spin..
Happy hunting :)
Wrong... Without vacuum going to the Hub actuators, the hubs will be engaged and locked...
When the vacuum is leaking or not fully open, the gears in the locking hub actuator will be only partially engaged, thus making a loud metallic grinding noise in the front hub.
The IWE solenoid is...
The check valve is located elsewhere on the vacuum line.. As for where it is.. I have no clue...
No leaks.. They are solid and heavy..
1. Remove the front spindle cap, and remove the small bolt connecting the half shaft to the wheel hub.
2. Remove the 6-12sided bolts (12mm?) bolts from...
panda < Yeah.. Rize recommended Radflo... Since I have yet to see anyone with Rads on the island.. Decided what the heck.. Since I already stick out like a sore thumb.. Might as well use something else other than the norm (Kings)..
As for this place where this pic was taken (I know you know...
Check valve to the IWE Solenoid?
I personally would have yanked the half shafts until I can locate the leak..
Yanking the half shafts will take me 10 minutes per shaft.. Then again... I had alot of practice :)
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.