First off: Welcome to the forum! Congrats on picking up an Expedition!
This situation is not what you think. There is A LOT of ribbing on this site (most car/vehicle, firearm, chainsaw/forestry, sports forums have a large bit of ribbing or “ball-busting”) and none of it should be taken...
Both.
It sounds like a bad u-joint clunk or loose lug nut/rotor slap. The diffs are tight and consistent (tested by hand free-spinning and under load, did not dissasemble to check lash) and all u-joints and cv shafts are in excellent working condition with no slop or other indicators of wear.
There is a Mechanical Engineer who did a “extreme pressure wear test” of 212 different off-the-shelf oils and some oils+additives. He wrote a very, Very, VERY detailed blog on it and posted all of his findings by rankings. Now his basis for the testing is designed more around the old flat tappet...
Starting to get the “cold start rattle” of the timing components so need to do a timing chain set/adjusters.
Got a weird “CLUNK” when I shift from drive into reverse that comes from what sounds like the front end. I have gone through the entire driveline and can’t find anything loose or worn...
Be carefull, this may (most likely does) lead to a lean condition when the BOV is utilized, especially at partial throttle. The air being vented is metered air (has run through the MAF and has been measured and compensated for) and now that pressurized air is being released to the atmosphere...
Oh the things that happen on a convoy after days without sleep and ridiculous stress levels.
Be me: Driving down MSR we have been hit on multiple times in the past few days in a 4x4 MRAP, my gunner (without my knowledge) strips completely naked and puts his boots, kit and kevlar back on and...
The response wasn’t directed at YOU, but in general to others. You learned your lesson.....
“A smart man learns from his mistakes; a Wise man learns from the mistakes of others”
I added an additional LED to the outside edge of my mirrors, wired to the factory LED assembly, to ensure the blinker is more noticeable. I used a set of running lights for a newer Silverado Dually but others have used plain old screw on sport bike blinkers. eBay, $6, 45 minutes of your time.
Don’t add any of that crap to your oil, plain and simple. Just don’t. I would be hard pressed to add that crap to my lawnmower. It all does more harm than good.
Have you ever seen the internals of an engine after running Lucas/Oil Honey/.etc?? You know what happens to that stuff when it starts...
It will literally take you 10 minutes to mod your stock ones. You can use much more powerful LEDs and actually orient them so they illuminate more than just at the base of the door. Their “extreme” LED is 3 watt. I have 9 watt bolt style LEDs I paid $11 for 10 of them. The difference in...
Not sure if serious......
IIRC its 36mm. And no, you do not need to remove it to remove the wheel.
If you have removed all the lug nuts and the wheel is still stuck to the hub, you most likely have corrosion freeze. Squirt around the hub/wheel mating surface and inside the lugnut holes around...
I concur. I got the auto down to work, for the most part. Sometimes if the window is partially down and i utilize the auto down the window goes up. Sometimes the auto down doesn’t work at all. I have done the “reset” about 20 times and no difference.
I got these and to be honest; not all that impressed. $54 for a set of eBay LEDs hot glued into oem housings. I could have made these myself for almost no cost.
Just my $0.02
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