2wd or 4wd? I did both sides on mine(4wd) and it was a pain. Get a bfh and plenty of crowbars. The rust is the biggest issue. The hub actually rusts to the knuckle and is a pia to get off. Good luck1 keep us posted.
Yes rtbrjason, I can see how hitting the rear wiper arm with a rubber mallet while driving can be cumbersome. Isn't that why we have kids for?:rofl:
What I'm talking about with the rubber mallet,pavojc, is this. If you haven't tried any of the suggestions for fuses,power to the switch,motor...
This is an all too common problem with these motors. A replacement is around $50 remanufactured, plus a core charge. It's a pretty easy fix. Right off the top of my head here is how it is done.
1-Unscrew the nut holding the wiper arm and remove it.
2- Open the rear hatch and unscrew the strap...
I just did mine this weekend when I replaced my hub. It's pretty easy to do. If I am thinking correctly the torque setting is 16lbs. Once you remove the old ones, jack the front end up. Then once you place everything on the bottom and middle, let the front end down and the top part of the link...
Thanks guys. I totally forgot about the other rear controls! Duh! I bet the rear controls are set for heat. I will go look today and report back.
Boy do I feel stuiped!
On the picture of the rear hvac controls(sorry I forgot who posted them as I write this) how do I remove just the blend/heat/fan section plastic? I have a light burnt out behind the blend knob.
As for "position two on my '97 is "Rear Control", thus if the rear is not on, it won't work as if...
Thanks for the reply stamp. Yes the fan is blowing at this speed. The speed also increases at each setting, i.e. spped one low, speed 2 higher etc. all the way to position 4. It just seems weird that the a/c will blow cold on all of the other settings except the second.
I should have...
Hey guys. I just finished charging my a/c. What a pain because of the placement of the port, but I digress. While I was charging it I turned the front ac and rear ac both on high while charging. When I was done I noticed that the rear ac blows cold on all of the settings except for the second...
Sounds to me like a bad wheel bearing hub assembly. Get a good floor jack and jack up each side of the front end. Grab each front wheel at 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock. Push/pull. If there is ANY play. then it is your wheel bearing.
Or a bad cv joint also.
Or both
Or more
I only know this...
Rock Auto had the best price when I replaced mine. Make sure you get a motorcraft one. Motorcraft is the only one that has hole that fits the electrical connector.
It sounds to me that your o2 sensors are working properly. I mean they are after all telling you something is too lean. When you replaced your pcv valve, did you replace the line that goes to the rear of the intake? That part has a tendency to develop a pin hole and collapse the boot attachment...
My pinstriping was all chipped as well. I removed it using the quick detailer stuff. then when the stripe was wet I removed it using my thumbnail. It took a while, but not too bad. After the striping was removed, I clay bar'd the remaining residue. It took two or three attempts but it is all...
Hello. I have a 99 expy 4x4, 5.4 with 145k. I noticed a clunking sound when you come to a stop or accelerate from a stop. It isn't the balljoints, as all four front ones have been chenged within the last month. my mechanic hears it too and assures me the front end is fine. I was thinking body...
Hey All. I have a 99 xlt,5.4,4x4 with 141k. So far other than a whole new front end, installed by me and other shadetrees, I haven't had many problems other than wear items. After reading the door tag again, I swear it said front tires 30 psi. Rear tires 35 psi. Both readings on cold tires. I...
Hello folks. I have a 99 expy that I installed both sides inner and outer tie rods.
It's a long story but the passenger side I used motorcraft(outer) and trw(inner, it was all they had at the parts store) The drivers side I used moog on both. That was four months ago. After my annual inspection...
You Da-Man jdan! After many searches on the pcv elbows I've only read about the common crack in the back of the intake manifold. After reading your post I checked the easy one on the drivers side. It was not connected at the end of the bend! DOH! Put it back in for now. Gonna change it later...
Here is the link I was talking about. This is the Expedition page. Beware though, the pictures are not linked 1,2,etc.
http://www.youtube.com/user/1aauto/videos?query=expedition
Hope this helps
The front end wasn't that difficult, even with hand tools. I just did my lower balljoints, shocks, upper control arms and shocks. My trailing arms and springs were good so I just did the shocks on the rear. You will definately need a breaker bar or a long cheater pipe. Also the rear drivers side...
Update. The window works! Unfortunately, after a quick med-fast visit(see prior post), it cost as much to have someone else do it! Doh! It was a learning experience though.
Things I Learned:
-When transferring window motor to regulator, have a helper to hold the tension of the spring...
Thanks to all who replied. This has been typical of all of my diy attempts. After much searching on this forum, Haynes manual, and other places (1aaauto on u tube), I felt pretty confident that I could tackle this job. I had already replaced window regulators before, mostly on foreign cars...
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