Yup. I had those at3’s when I was in Chicago. Great in snow but now I’m in Florida and do 500-1100 Mike’s week all highway so I want a touring or all season high mileage tire.
My truck is my work tool so I maintain w open check book.
Not to say I don’t want to save money but I’ve learned...
Here’s what the 4x4 shop told me was done wrong.
The weights were all placed on the same side of the wheel vs on opposite sides.
In other words if you put a weight on the top of the wheel say 12’oclock then the next weight can’t be next to it or near it, it has to be at the 6’oclock or...
I had to go to three different places to get my tires balanced properly. One was the local dealer, nope. Went to my indy guy tells me a wheel is bent, nope.
Went to a 4x4 shop they told me wheel is fine that the previous balances were done incorrectly.
My truck was vibration free past 80mph.
Just got them on. Feel silky smooth so far. The OE pads I had we’re almost down to bare metal and the rotors were rusted.
Hopefully these Golds will fare better.
I tried those years ago. The rotors warped in 12,000 miles. The first time I hit the brakes I almost went through the windshield but they didn’t last for me.
My brake pads are signaling so I’m considering Duralast ceramic pads and rotors from Autozone.
I don’t like the dust of OE that I have on now.
Any recommendations? Only fronts are needed.
My driving style is almost all highway so stops are from high speeds.
Thank you.
The pop is coming from front driver side wheel area. I’ll have to look into that but I’m done pumping money. I just put all 4 new cats w pipes and all fluids flushed.
She drives as she is till 300k then I’ll either retire her to just a tow rig or sell it on eBay.
She runs great though at 236,***.
I did all those replacements. Battery, starter, then the friggin alternator gave out.
They said there’s a wire dongle off the alternator that should be replaced at the same time I went ahead and did it. It was corroded.
No it was a tin can rattling underneath engine compartment behind front tires up-in-der.
It was intermittent but started to increase. I thought it was the ac compressor but nope.
That’s my approach to parts on my ole gal. If the OEM lasted this long why spend more for an aftermarket or risk aftermarket quality and fitment? I always try to go OE if available.
Installed Walker’s with pipes for both banks. Sounds great feels great.
How bad were they? So rusted the insides were rattling around and blocking gasses.
Get a second opinion. No a blown head gasket repair is not an engine rebuild or replacement. It is an opportunity to update other parts given the invasive nature of the job but people do get them fixed.
Sounds like you need a good honest mechanic. Call the dealer and ask what the price for that...
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