Yeah, I hear you. If you want to go the custom route (wiring something in yourself) there are lots of options if you're handy with electrical wiring, or at least willing to do some research on e.g. youtube and be careful about what you're doing -- I can share some details on what I did on the...
On an Expedition, you would not run the wire down through the bumper unless you were certain you'd never open the liftgate. The only way to make it work and not get bound up would be to run it up the D pillar from the tail light, over to the wiring harness ingress for the third brake light...
FYI, the LED tail light assemblies still have stupidly sucky reverse lights, just like the F-150s. Fortunately, they're replaceable bulbs. I swapped my reverse bulbs out for some high-output LED bulbs shortly after I bought it.
I had the same problem on my F-150. Everyone just RAVES about the Bilsteins and how much better they make the ride and etc. I took mine right back off and installed OEMs as I just couldn't deal with the skateboard ride. I'm somewhat convinced that folks saying they make the truck ride better...
My understanding of State of Charge is wildly different from this. https://image.slideserve.com/666777/state-of-charge-l.jpg Looking at the things I've read, 80% should be around 12.4-12.5V OCV/resting (sources differ). What's even more odd is that when my battery was down around 12.6V resting...
My dude, some of us have actually changed the target state of charge from the default to something else like 95%, and we can objectively see the difference in what the truck does. This ain't rocket surgery.
I think you should probably do what some of us have already done and hook up an OBDII...
You can get replacement battery insulation blankets that will fit multiple battery sizes. Looking at https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/vehicle-battery-80-ah-800-amp-p-bagm94rh7800?pdp=y (the 94R size for my 2020 before the downsize) it looks like the part number for the heat shield is 10a687 and...
I'm also pretty sure every mechanic I've watched talking about 10R80 fluid changes explicitly mentions not going by the Ford 150k mile schedule. Seems like most of them recommend 60k first change, then every ~30k after that. But don't trust me - go look it up.
I presume you're after the engine and trans temp gauge numbers.
According to my notes, the same values worked on Mom's 2022 with Sync 4 that worked on my 2020 with Sync 3 (both are Platinum Max models). Might be the same on yours. On ours, the gauge temps and power-on chime were the only two...
I think when you pull the battery, things temporarily reset to default "as-built" configuration and then gradually redetect via CANBUS signaling. I'm pretty sure I watched a video of someone whose truck wouldn't start because the tail light connector experience some water ingress, corroded, and...
No, I'm saying I've seen some folks on here talking about leaving their truck in e.g. an airport parking garage for a couple weeks while on vacation and then coming back to a completely dead battery. As an example, over Christmas I parked mine with a ~97% state of charge in my parents' barn...
The BCM reset thing as far as I know only resets the battery days in service stored variable. Nothing magic going on there. If you had to reset the BCM for the car to work, there'd be a whole bunch of people stuck as they don't know about that.
Y'all talking about locking the key in the car and using the door keypad, just beware of battery drain. I seem to recall some other folks mentioning getting stuck with a completely dead battery after being at the airport for a few weeks. Dead battery = no door keypad. If you wanna do that kinda...
Did you just have it in for service recently? Did you just recently drive it like you stole it? Mine was fine when I bought it until about 300 miles later I drove it down to Mexico and was passing some people at over 110mph. When I got to the destination, we put it up on a lift to check things...
Considering how many of us have been through 2-3 "rebuilds" or parts replacements and then ended up having to replace the thing anyway, going straight to "replace it" might be the best option overall. See also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpbTQb_dHDs
All the BMS reset does to my knowledge is reset the "Battery Days In Service" value back to 0. You can verify that with an OBDII reader. I have it as an item in my OBDLink MX+ dashboard.
It sounds similar to what I thought was waste gate, but when did the spring-tensioner "fix" on them it did not change that sound. As @SyndicateZ said, best thing to do is set phone to record, set on ground behind front wheel, and then crank it. You can also get a length of rubber hose and use it...
Mine has 20s and it rides better than my 2015 F-150 did with 18" Michelins. I'm careful about keeping cold pressures between 33-35, though. Letting the dealer or tire shop inflate them to 40+ is not going to do your lumbar discs any favors.
Parents have a 2022 that came with 22s. We swapped...
I think about having a vehicle that sat in dealer service for 2 months out of the first 18 due to trans, phasers, and some "regular" maintenance, and it has been really difficult to find a good alternative that doesn't have its own problems/recalls/etc. My brother had been mulling over just...
I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the crate trans they put in mine this summer had all the new parts in it. Also giving serious thought to getting an MPT tune just to get the (from what I hear) better trans programming.
Or just go by and have them show you why they need alignment. They could have screwed with something and messed up one of the cameras somehow (though I'm sure have no idea how, but still). Better to learn that now rather than after you pick up the keys.
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