My '07 has a bad temperature sensor located in the evaporator/blower box. The sensor shuts off the compressor, theoretically telling the compressor that the evaporator temperature is cold enough and allows for it to de-ice every few minutes. What could be happening in your case is the AC system...
My '07 will get below 30°F at the vent while on the highway, and roughly 40-45°F at the vent while idling. Even with this, it does take awhile to cool the interior of my EL. I planned on getting ceramic tint this year, but that hasn't happened yet. However, I've made some modifications to my...
I had to replace the stem on my '07. It had corroded and this was preventing the arm from rotating. It wasn't a terribly difficult job, but since this piece mounts to the glass hatch, you can't tighten it too much or else you may shatter the hatch.
If you get cold air from any of the vents, then the refrigerant charge is likely just fine. The issue is probably the passenger side blend door, or, less likely, the multi-zone temperature controller.
My '07 had a power-steering leak and AC issues. I discovered that the top few rows of the radiator are the cooling section for the power steering fluid. I could see the top of the passenger side of the radiator had an oily stain from the PS fluid (ATF fluid). I purchased a oil cooler that...
I spent the past 2 weekends changing over to Bilstein 4600's and adding the ReadyLift 3/2 kit. Here's how she looks after installing a set of 35x12.50R17 BFG All Terrains:
I would highly recommend that you get a buddy or two to help out.
My last Expedition (2001) needed a lift. We used...
I had intermittent misfires on my 07 until I replaced all of the pigtails going to the coils. I think a pack of 8 was around $20 and it took me under 2 hours to cut, solder, and shrink wrap them. #4 and #8 were a PITA to do.
Maybe your hydraulic side is sticking when the weather gets cold? Since the ABS system runs a diagnostic check at start up, it could be triggering a code during cold weather if something is sticking.
I installed the LKQ ABS pump (hydraulic side plus the electrical side). I realized that I should be using flare nut wrenches for the brake lines, but I didn't have any. I used FORScan to purge the ABS system and to program the as-built codes. It seemed to work fine, but after a few days, the...
FordTechMakuloco means a thump just like this coming from the center support of the rear differential. The bushing wears out and allows the support to shift when the vehicle goes from acceleration to braking and vice versa.
You may also have a u-joint issue. When you change from acceleration...
I agree with @04WHITEEDDIE . If the compressor is getting power, the clutch should be engaging. The upstream sensors should prevent power going to the compressor clutch if any of them are faulted out. As others have said, what do your gauges say? With everything off and settled, what is your...
As Train said, some diagnostic work is now warranted. Move the COPs from the offending cylinder(s) and see if the issue follows the COPs. Th pigtail connectors on the COPs are also known to have issues. The rubber rings break and let moisture into the connector. And the plastic locking clip...
Issues that come up during acceleration are usually ignition-related. It could be spark plugs (only use the Motorcraft ones for these engines), it could be a COP, it could be the coil connector wiring. See if you can find a scanner with Mod6 capability. This will show a misfire if you have...
I don't know if these will work for your 3.5, but I replaced my connectors on my 5.4 with these earlier this year. I cut off the old connector, slide on a section of heat-shrink tubing, soldered the new connector to the old wiring, and covered up the exposed wiring with the heat shrink tubing...
I'm assuming that you've pulled the headlight knob out (toward the driver) to turn the lights on? I know that it took me a little bit of experimenting to figure this out. (Or I could have just read the manual). And the headlight switch it not in the "Auto" position, or if it is in the "Auto"...
The rear fan in my '07 EL died last year and it was an easy replacement. Just pull out a few trim panels, bend back the quarter panel, and 3 torx screws plus the electrical and it was done. 20 minutes, start to finish with cleanup. My fan would work on and off. A tap on the motor body would...
Are you seeing a CEL? What code does it throw?
I see a couple of things that concern me. The O2S11 oxygen sensor appears to be slow to respond, at least compared to O2S21. Once the oxygen sensors are heated up and the engine in up to temperature, the upstream O2 sensors should cycle lean/rich...
I'd try to stay with the factory system. When my IWEs began acting up, I traced it down to a vacuum line leak. I fixed that and it's been great ever since.
I had an intermittent misfire in my #5 for a while. I moved coils and plugs around and it always stayed with cylinder #5. I replaced the pigtail to the coil and the issue was fixed. I have replaced almost all of the other pigtails after that. Most of them had the rubber ring/gasket torn or...
My '07 Limited does the same thing. I've recently seen some trouble codes showing up on my scantool for errors related to mirror sensor/motor issues. I wonder if the sensors or motors or whatever are getting old and "weak"?
My rear blower would constantly fail to start. Like you, if I thumped it, it would turn on. I ended up buying a new blower (Rockauto) and this fixed my issue, although the new blower is louder than my old one (and that one was already noisy). I took apart my old blower and I'm waiting on a...
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