To stop the driver's power seat back and forth rock, I found this some years ago on the F-150 forum and it worked for me. "I basically disconnected the drive motor, then I "preloaded" the tracks slightly by adjusting one side forward and then reconnecting the drive." It makes the motor labor...
Regarding the engine dieing shortly after starting, you may want to look at the fuel pump micro relay. Lots has been written on the subject in this and other forums.
Mine is an '06, it may be a bit different than yours. I'd start by checking mini-fuse #30, it's a 25 amp fuse. Might as well verify the voltage at the fuse. If it's not the fuse, the Pinpoint Tests in the service manual get lengthy and you'll probably want to have Forscan or a good scanner to...
Can you send a picture of what you have aft of the transmission? I think we’re going on the assumption you have an OEM 4WD configuration but now I’m not so sure.
The speedometer showing 40mph seems to say an output from the transfer case is spinning but not the driveshaft as you have shown. I’m not near my XLT or shop manual and not sure exactly where the speed sensor is located, I’ll be checking when I get home. I know exactly where it is on my BW1356...
First thought is since you're seeing a speed indication tells me the transmission output shaft is turning. You'll want a helper or remote camera to see if the driveshaft is spinning while you shift through Park, Neutral and Drive. I'd look closely at the driveline from the point where the...
I’d get 75W-140 synthetic soonest. Ford spec’d that for a reason in the 9.75 instead of what had been used in the 8.8 (75/80W-90). Maybe it’s because the 9.75’s capacity is only 4.3 pints and it’s doing more work…no axle tubes for heat transfer…I’ll stop guessing.
Did they check ride height or at least mention it? I’m showing the parts needed are 2L1Z-3B236-AD for the lower arm rear bushing and 2L1Z-3B236-AC for the lower arm front bushing from the shop manual but it seems they’ve been discontinued. So over to Rock Auto and your preferred brand. Since...
I should have added the strap wrench needs a little help. I use a sawed-off aluminum baseball bat (my go-to leverage extender for over 40 years--light with decent length, very rigid and good opening size) over the Boa Constrictor handle with the bat braced against a suitable piece of wood, etc...
The last time I used Bendix pads prior to this debacle with the XLT was a year ago in my Kia Stinger (sold last month...) because Kia's OE pads for the Brembos are notorious for leaving deposits on the rotor causing the dreaded pedal pulsing/out of round feeling. There was a very noticeable...
To follow up...rear calipers replaced (new UltraPower from RockAuto...we'll see how so-called new calipers go), rear rotors replaced, rear brake hoses replaced along with the lines from the master cylinder to the ABS unit. Front calipers are reman AC Delco along with new brake hoses in the...
The strap wrench I've had luck with is the Boa Constrictor available on Amazon. I've also used the 15" Craftsman adjustable wrench on the clutch nut similar to @whtbronco. The weight of the big adjustable is more helpful than the kit wrench...it's nice and heavy and when cocked about 30...
I had success with a good strap wrench on the pulley and a sharp rap on the kit fan clutch wrench. Three times in 7 1/2 years it’s worked. Your results may differ…
The transmission line quick disconnect tool is a cheap plastic thingy readily available. You’ll need to remove the quick disconnect fitting from the radiator and make the call if you want to try to find a suitable o-ring or replace the fitting. I think the fitting has an external o-ring for...
Good questions. Looking at the oiling diagram for the 5.4 in the Ford shop manual, there is a restriction in each cylinder head for oil flow to the camshafts, lash adjusters and roller followers. The VVT system does not get this restriction. I haven't gone crazy with viscosity--using Mobil 1...
No change in reservoir level and no signs of leaks, even along the frame rail. It’s weird. Hate to admit I looked at YouTube (I’m 60 and that didn’t exist when I had to figure out problems the old fashioned way), a guy traced his very similar problem to a wheel cylinder that was sucking air...
I'm with you @whtbronco on both points and thank you for all you do for this forum. To add, when doing the ABS Service Bleed this time, I thought about what was happening. With foot on pedal, it drops (dump valve opens) and then pumps up when the ABS motor runs and it does this cycle for a...
I noticed you installed the Melling HV oil pump. I did that in the spring along with lash adjusters (one was noisy, did the entire job you did in 2017) and wow, it was a disaster. Driving away on a cool (not cold engine), both phasers went max retard, 53 degrees, engine would barely run. I...
Time to follow up after 6 months of the XLT in the garage on jack stands waiting for me. It's still doing the exact same thing--brake pedal goes to floor slowly but only when the engine is running; the pedal is firm and doesn't pump up when the engine is off. Suspecting the ABS hydraulic unit...
I used Motorcraft Spark Plug - SP546X. Installed this April. 2006 XLT. No issues. (I used Autolite HT1 back in 2013 as I didn't trust Motorcraft after 6 of 8 broke coming out. Never had an issue with the Autolites.)
I like your approach and methodology. I'd be going for the evap temp sensor also. Mine is an '06 XLT; nevertheless, thought I'd attach what the shop manual says for mine. Glovebox removal...
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