Open the hood with the engine running and the AC on. Find the AC compressor under the hood- should be down low on the passenger side.
The AC clutch hangs off the front of the compressor. If you can see it clearly, then it isn’t spinning (or engaged). If it’s a blur, then it’s engaged.
If...
I had a similar issue- all my checks of the vacuum system showed good. Everything seemed to lock and unlock like it should while in the garage. But on the road- funny grinding noise. Put it in 4hi, noise goes away.
I installed the RCV lockouts and haven’t had a problem since. My lifetime MPGs...
A4wd.
In your underhood fuse box, remove fuse 104. This is the transfercase shift motor fuse. See if the issue goes away (it did on my 2000). Because this fixed my issue, I did the Brown Wire Mod and turned my a4wd into 2hi. I still had 4hi, 4lo capability (once I out the fuse back in).
I’d bet your IWEs have failed.
I tried diagnosing my vacuum system and I couldn’t replicate the noise I would get in 2wd that would go away in 4hi. The vacuum system appeared to be good, but it acted like my hubs were engaged. I bought some RCV hub lockouts and haven’t had a noise since. Yes...
I had a similar issue.
Jacked it up, removed the wheels, started it, shifted in/out of 4wd, used a vacuum pump/gauge……. Everything pointed to the system working fine. But still had the noise.
Installed the RCV lockouts- no more noise.
And oh by the way, I’ve recorded several 16+ mpg tanks...
With engine off, spin the AC clutch by hand. Can you feel the resistance change as you spin? If you can, this is a compression cycle. If you can’t, compressor is toast.
I think I went with a 5th gen 4Runner. I originally bought it for my Explorer that is similar in size to the 4Runner. But it worked pretty well on my Expeditions as well. Mine partially covered the sunroof on my Expeditions (not something I have on my Explorer) so if I was going to buy one...
8020 or “unistrut”, which is steel. Either would be a great option for a roof rack.
I made a backseat platform out of 8020 in my Explorer. Works great and is super strong.
It is expensive. However, I bought it 7 years ago. It’s been on “4” vehicles. It will still be solid and strong in another 7 years. And another 7 years after that.
Buy once, cry once.
Eezi-Awn rack I bought from equipt1.com. When browsing, it will not say “fits Expedition”. But it will. This rack has been on my Explorer, my 2000 Expedition, my 2014 Expedition and is now back on my Explorer.
The document above contradicts itself: 2015-2017 model year with build dates of January 2014 thru June 2017. January is square in the middle of the 2014 model year. My 2014 was built in April. My blower motor is making a noise.
I guess I’ll be calling my dealer tomorrow.
The rear shock question- it all depends on what type of rear shocks you have. If you have the Nivomat “self leveling” shocks, then that spring perch is welded to the shock body. It’s too big in diameter anyway.
It’s easy to tell what you have before tearing it apart. Just put your hand around...
I run Hawk LTS pads in all my vehicles that Hawk offers those pads. I’ve paired my 2014 pads with their Talon rotors and it seems to work great. Really good cold bite. Never had any heat fade (my fluid is also in good shape).
I’ve also run EBC Redstuff and Orangestuff pads. Both worked well...
It’s a Pioneer. It’s a year old at this point so there’s probably something newer out now.
Just go to crutchfield and put in your info. Lots of options.
Bought this from Crutchfield. No cutting of the dash (I think that was only a 1st gen thing). Steering wheel controls, back up camera (in mirror), i think the rear entertainment still works (although I think that’s the dumbest thing), sub still works.
I didn’t take it all the way down. I just removed the back trim piece (pulls off) and pulled the top of the right rear trim off and pulled down the headliner some. Like I said- there wasn’t much room.
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