I need to remove AC lines brackets which hold those line underneath truck's body. The problem with that, in spite of me soaking those studs in BP blaster spray, they now rotate and I cannot turn holding nuts. Whatever 'technology' Ford uses to weld these studs miserably fails. It's '17 truck...
I drive mine without issues. I did not notice any sound changes within my cabin or any deviation in fuel economy. I would keep existing muffler until it has a real hole in it. You can get more stuff out. See my post
'17 4WD XLT here. I have a hole in my rear suction line (hissing sound and visible oil trace). I know it can be patched by cutting a section but I would like to replace the entire thing. It seems like factory lines have to be cut off and a replacement is slightly different. ALLDATA does not say...
That's why I always stay in 4A (instead of using permanent caps as latest TSB suggests). 4A is supposed to cut off vacuum and keep IWEs engaged all the time. The grinding remains though.
I experience some grinding / uneven scratching noise seemingly coming from some front/middle point on my '17 4WD XLT during acceleration. Initially I thought about one IWE (it's a 'mono' sound). The mode switch 2H/4A changes nothing. I believe 4A shall cut off vacuum completely out of IWEs and...
I've got substantial A/C leak. The truck is pretty new. After re-charge A/C is operational probably just for 3-4 weeks. I wonder if this is a common for 3rd gen and what typical places it can be at.
Stainless shell lug nuts (OEM on many brands) are much better than chrome or paint found on many aftermarkets imho. OEM nuts are deformed easily with impact wrench. I always use a breaker bar to loose those first. Never had problems since that.
As I suspected, whoever (at http://www.hoffmanautolp.com/) was fixing my starter issues did "a relay swap" test. Apparently not all relays are the same. AB relays look the same as BA except a missing 5th pin. So those idiots left "AB" relay as a washer relay which killed the ground for frontal...
I wonder if anyone has some know-how for lower tailgate trim removal without breaking trim plastic. When the trim is pulled metal clips stay inserted while trim standoffs "permanently" attached to those clips are basically destroyed. Having experience with a few other brands I would say this...
I found a few similar threads but none of them have a definitive answer. This is a situation when all wipers seem to be OK; rear washing works but there is no fluid out from front nozzles.
The service manual for 2015/2017 I bought of ebay does not have correct wiring and fuses. So far I checked...
I had to replace a starter on '17 truck with just 55K (mostly highway miles). It was in the middle of nowhere so I had to use some local shop (and pay MSRP). The OEM unit they got first time did not work so they made a second order. They said it was not refurbished but brand new. I understand...
I put 5K on this setup in two weeks. Apparently the spacers are not critical at all. If someone wants to spend $300 for a piece of mild steel then it's good for ReadyLIFT. The only critical item here, I believe, is a ball joint on the upper arm. So changing that arm is more important. And...
A lot of people install ReadyLIFT which I think is quite overpriced. I installed the one from ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-Front-2-5-Lift-Kit-Ford-Expedition-2WD-4WD-FX4-2003-2014/272036627414 and it looks pretty solid for significantly less money. Besides you can choose your height by...
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