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  1. F

    Auxiliary AC lines brackets

    I ended up by riveting aluminum flats and using stainless steel zip ties to make it quick
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    Auxiliary AC lines brackets

    I need to remove AC lines brackets which hold those line underneath truck's body. The problem with that, in spite of me soaking those studs in BP blaster spray, they now rotate and I cannot turn holding nuts. Whatever 'technology' Ford uses to weld these studs miserably fails. It's '17 truck...
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    Exhaust question

    I drive mine without issues. I did not notice any sound changes within my cabin or any deviation in fuel economy. I would keep existing muffler until it has a real hole in it. You can get more stuff out. See my post
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    Leaky rear A/C lines

    '17 4WD XLT here. I have a hole in my rear suction line (hissing sound and visible oil trace). I know it can be patched by cutting a section but I would like to replace the entire thing. It seems like factory lines have to be cut off and a replacement is slightly different. ALLDATA does not say...
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    "stuff" out of exhaust

    I just left my truck in a dealership and they sent me back this picture I wonder what it can be?
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    Grinding / scratching front end noise during acceleration which can be not IWE

    That's why I always stay in 4A (instead of using permanent caps as latest TSB suggests). 4A is supposed to cut off vacuum and keep IWEs engaged all the time. The grinding remains though.
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    Grinding / scratching front end noise during acceleration which can be not IWE

    I experience some grinding / uneven scratching noise seemingly coming from some front/middle point on my '17 4WD XLT during acceleration. Initially I thought about one IWE (it's a 'mono' sound). The mode switch 2H/4A changes nothing. I believe 4A shall cut off vacuum completely out of IWEs and...
  8. F

    Extensive A/C leak

    It was lower right corner (front view) and it looked like a cracked welded joint to a vertical tube.
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    Hot air 3rd row

    It's probably low r134 charge.
  10. F

    Extensive A/C leak

    It was cracked front A/C condenser (luckily not evap core).
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    Extensive A/C leak

    I've got substantial A/C leak. The truck is pretty new. After re-charge A/C is operational probably just for 3-4 weeks. I wonder if this is a common for 3rd gen and what typical places it can be at.
  12. F

    2012 - AC blows cold air on drivers side, hot air on passenger side

    Check your refrigerant charge. Probably it's too low.
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    Stripped chrome lug nuts

    Stainless shell lug nuts (OEM on many brands) are much better than chrome or paint found on many aftermarkets imho. OEM nuts are deformed easily with impact wrench. I always use a breaker bar to loose those first. Never had problems since that.
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    Front washer does not work

    As I suspected, whoever (at http://www.hoffmanautolp.com/) was fixing my starter issues did "a relay swap" test. Apparently not all relays are the same. AB relays look the same as BA except a missing 5th pin. So those idiots left "AB" relay as a washer relay which killed the ground for frontal...
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    8T2T-14B192-xx relays

    What's the difference between 8T2T-14B192-AB, 8T2T-14B192-BA and 8T2T-14B192-AA relays ?
  16. F

    Front washer does not work

    Nozzles, pipes, etc are OK. If proper polarity voltage is applied to the pump then fluid comes from the front.
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    Lower tailgate trim removal

    I wonder if anyone has some know-how for lower tailgate trim removal without breaking trim plastic. When the trim is pulled metal clips stay inserted while trim standoffs "permanently" attached to those clips are basically destroyed. Having experience with a few other brands I would say this...
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    Front washer does not work

    I found a few similar threads but none of them have a definitive answer. This is a situation when all wipers seem to be OK; rear washing works but there is no fluid out from front nozzles. The service manual for 2015/2017 I bought of ebay does not have correct wiring and fuses. So far I checked...
  19. F

    Starter reliability

    I had to replace a starter on '17 truck with just 55K (mostly highway miles). It was in the middle of nowhere so I had to use some local shop (and pay MSRP). The OEM unit they got first time did not work so they made a second order. They said it was not refurbished but brand new. I understand...
  20. F

    need new tires

    Rotiiva AT Plus seems to be a good tire relatively cheap.
  21. F

    The lift. Yet again.

    I did not touch UCAs or hubs. Only sway bar, shocks and lower arm bolts (replaced) which were torqued at alignment shop.
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    The lift. Yet again.

    I put 5K on this setup in two weeks. Apparently the spacers are not critical at all. If someone wants to spend $300 for a piece of mild steel then it's good for ReadyLIFT. The only critical item here, I believe, is a ball joint on the upper arm. So changing that arm is more important. And...
  23. F

    The lift. Yet again.

    I have no problem except some grinding noise during hard turns which developed after 1k miles. Maybe it's not related to the lift.
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    The lift. Yet again.

    A lot of people install ReadyLIFT which I think is quite overpriced. I installed the one from ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-Front-2-5-Lift-Kit-Ford-Expedition-2WD-4WD-FX4-2003-2014/272036627414 and it looks pretty solid for significantly less money. Besides you can choose your height by...
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    Winter tire size, TPMS

    It seems like based on VIN I can get 315 or 415 MHz TPMS: 315 - 9L3Z1A189A 433 - BB5Z1A189A
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