Mine is stripped I think too. Always was far back until the teen started driving and needed to move it around. You can kinda force it as the gear is turning. Maybe get someone in back pushing hard while the motor is going.
You do hear the motor right?
Is the heat in back ok? EB has 2 sets of controls right?
Heater core or blend door both are dash off jobs. Replace them both at the same time. Removing the dash is tedious but not super hard for your car.
No temp control comes down to the blend door / blend door actuator. Depending on your model you may also have 2 blend circuits up front if there are left right controls. Probably not on a 2001 I guess. Just one in front and one in back.
If it’s just the actuator, you can fix it without...
99% It’s either the heater return hose behind the water pump or the upper intake manifold which is plastic and a common fail point. Check the valley on top of your engine for a pool of coolant.
Edit: oops I just saw you got the manifold off. I would replace the manifold and the heater return...
Motorcraft plugs only for 1st Gen Expedition. I’ve used the off brand coils though without any troubles.
Also, check for coolant back there. The upper intake manifolds are known to crack and leak coolant down on the coils and plugs. This seems to happen to me every 10 or 12 years between the...
https://youtu.be/ldvmWtdGFEM
Google GEM module but check your alternator too. GEM is behind the fuse block in the dash. They are super notorious for getting wet from windshield leaks. Water runs down from the rusty spots under the windshield seal on top of the roofline.
Just crank you wheel all the way to one side and drive some tight circles in the parking lot. You will be able to tell right away if it’s in 4x4 if it’s lurching and binding.
Shocks and tires and steering and run it for a while is my vote. Especially if it’s running good. You can do most of that and do a nicer job by being meticulous. Most mechs hate working on Fords for some reason. Personally, I like it and there is tons of good internet help.
The notorious rust area is under the seal on top of the glass. I just assumed they need to cut out the pillars too to fix it. Maybe you can cut just up to the pillars and weld it back I don’t really know. I’m super curious what you find there tho! Poke the blade of a pocket knife under the top...
Don’t need to pull the dash anymore if you did the blend door and heater core. Start with the defrost actuator.
Thread 'AC stuck on defrost'
https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/ac-stuck-on-defrost.39532/
It sounds to me like you need to invest in ALLDATA.com. If you plan to spend a bunch...
There’s a blend door (inside the plenum box) and a blend door actuator (under the box). Both parts are cheap at your favorite parts store from doorman. The door has an improved metal band to hold the fragile parts together.
Best to start with the actuator underneath probably unless you’re...
I think all the other vents are controlled by vacuum lines. Did you maybe disconnect one while you were working on your blend door? I think they are just called registers.
Post in thread '2007, first repair, mode door actuator. What now?'
https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/2007-first-repair-mode-door-actuator-what-now.52009/post-478476
Still on the original starter here from 2000. My fuel pump went out around 370K. That is one job I didn’t mind handing off at the time. Maybe I would do it myself now.
2000 XLT here it’s a 2V. First motor made it to about 270K. It was going strong but I let a mechanic change the plugs and it threw one out a few K later. Put a rebuilt in and did all my own work on it since. No electronic problems ever but look close where the windshield is know to leak down on...
Found some pics with my carpet pulled back and floor vents popped out.
You can see the restraint module laying on the floor. After the screws are out, there’s a plastic pop out tab holding module in so you have to tug on it.
Not sure if this will help. When installing a Subaru water pump, I put some threaded rods in a couple bolt holes. Then I can slide on the gasket and pump and start bolting it up without needing 4 hands. Maybe you can use the same trick, then pull them out and replace with screws as you go.
The screws to hold the top of the metal bracket face towards the gas pedal. Wiggle it and you will see where it’s attached.
I can’t help with the console part but you may want to get an alldata account. Totally worth it. Is the whole plastic tray just snapped down with plastic fasteners maybe...
Better off with rear wheel drive mechanically by a long shot. Driving on the TC only full time probably wouldn’t get you across the state. For sure not across Texas.
I only have one but you have one for the back.
This thread lays is all out. -
Post in thread '2007, first repair, mode door actuator. What now?'
https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/2007-first-repair-mode-door-actuator-what-now.52009/post-479093
Edit: Does the heat in back work ok?
… And to be real clear you can’t replace the controller from the top even with the dash off. Pull out front seats and console. Pop off some plastic and pull back the carpet. Remove restraint module (with the battery disconnected). Then you can pull the blend door controller. Make sure it’s not...
Oops double post. You might also try driving around and fiddle with the control too. sometimes the motor wakes up slowly and you could get it to hot and leave it there for the winter.
Dash comes off for the blend door and core but the control motor and gear unit is underneath. I took the seat out and did mine it wasn’t so bad, a bit harder if you have a console like most do.
You might ask him to do the controller first. It’ll probably get you at least a bit of heat. The...
Water jacket to me says “in the block” I’m a little confused. Are you talking about a metal line that runs under the intake manifold? That’s the heater return hose.
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