08 PATS and Transmission problems

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KRGS

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6 months ago, transmission went out. Sent it to a friend who took the trans out and sent it to be rebuilt. During that time, the battery was disconnected for about 4 months which is possibly why anti theft was triggered to begin with. A locksmith came and programmed 2 new keys for it once trans was back in.

Sent it to Ford. They said possibly trans computer was bad after almost $1k in diag fees. Sent it to trans shop and they replaced with Ford OEM part. No change.

Yesterday, I took the battery to get charged, picked it up this afternoon.

Today, I went to the Expedition and put one key in the ignition and another in the door. Turned key to on position, then installed the battery. The anti theft light was blinking fast, then slowed to a 5-1-5-1 pattern, then stopped blinking. Tried to start it but nothing happened. Turned the key to off position but left it in the ignition and the other key in the door. Took out starter and brought it to get tested, tested good. Came back and reinstalled the starter. Then I swapped some of the unnecessary relays with the starter relays. Started right up. Turned it off and started again a few times. Went to take it for a test drive but wouldn’t go into any gear. Turned it off and waited for someone I know to come to move the gear lever while I looked at the transmission. Truck wouldn’t start, anti theft seemingly re-engaged. Test the shift linkage anyway and could see it moving at the transmission. Tried to get the truck out of anti theft mode again but gave up after awhile.

When I turn the key to On position and then back to off position, it’s almost like the truck doesn’t know and keeps all the dash lights on.

Lastly can anti theft keep truck from going into gear? Or am I encountering another issue? Shifter is on the column

Codes:
P1260 Theft detected engine disabled
U0101 Lost comms with TCM
U0140 lost comms with BCM
U0100 lost comms with ECM
U2013 compass module no response
B1601 PATS received incorrect key code
U2472 ignition state unexpected
B1318 low voltage at module
 

BigOleFordFan

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Based on those codes and the behaviors you listed, it would seem that a major module & relay overhaul and/or a total reprogramming would be in order....

Been there, done that, and 6 months of aggravation and $3k later, I learned that when/if the PATS system goes wacky, it can be a major PITA to diagnose....the one major takeaway I got from my experience was that, at least in my 011 EL, is that the PATS is usually not the real issue, as it is tied into almost every major module, and just about any faults in any of them will cause it to lose comms with the others, especially the ECM, and that will definitely stop the engine from starting...

I can't comment on the shifting issue, since while my problems were happening, I could never shift out of park let alone into any other gear, but mine is on the floor console, so it may be different in that regard...

Also, although it suks, I found that the stealerships are about the only place that have the proper equipment to completely reprogram all the modules and keys... all the locksmiths I talked to said they could do the keys no problem, but anything beyond that should be done at a stealership :(
 

BigOleFordFan

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Well that was one of the 1st questions I asked the programmer @the stealership, and his answer was a resounding N.friggin.O, followed by a loud chuckle and some serious head swinging :)

But then he started rambling on & on about how the PATS is a fully integrated function, so there is no way to just "delete" it...however, I have a feeling that was just a way to help them justify the expensive diagnostic labor & parts installation charges...

However, since I didn't have either the know how or the tools to fix it, if I wanted a fully functional truck back, I had to go with it and fork out the bucks...

BTW, that was before I found out about FORSCAN, hahaha :)

I'm not saying it is or is not possible, but that may or may not be true for other models/versions of the Expy...
 
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KRGS

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I’ve seen FORSCAN Sometimes can’t help with PATS

But there is a company that sells new ECMs without PATS. Drag Radial Performance. I’m waiting on a response for cost
 

BigOleFordFan

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Interesting, perhaps they found a way to reverse-engineer the programming to remove whatever proprietary/root-level coding makes it work with the other modules & systems...

Please keep us updated on their replies :D
 
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KRGS

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PATS delete doesn’t guarantee a fix to any issue. So I’m trying to figure out what’s really wrong first

I’m getting a code 15 from anti theft which indicates the key isn’t being read

Battery is getting drained so that’s another problem. It won’t act right if the battery is less than 10 volts

Anyone south of Charlotte NC have FORSCAN for me to reprogram my keys?
 

eddytheexpy

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IDK if this is something that applies here but I heard a story from a guy when picking up parts from the rig he was parting out. I don't remember the backstory (it had to do with lost keys and something with the anti-theft system) but he said he went to the junk yard and pulled 2 computer modules out of a same year/trim vehicle as well as the key for that vehicle. One of the modules is the one that's on the inside of the passenger door, not sure which one the other was. By doing this, he effectively put the brain of one car into a different car's body and it got him going again just fine. Not sure how kosher of a fix that was and if there were any oddities caused by the swap but it sounds like a possibly viable solution to your issues.
 
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KRGS

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Update:

Had a parasitic drain that was keeping me from diagnosing anything else. Turned out to be Transmission B+ fuse 37 in the engine fuse box. What does that do and why was it pulling over 1 volt constantly?
 
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KRGS

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Update:

Got it to start and run. Got anti theft to turn off by erasing and reprogramming the keys with FORSCAN. However, this is with fuse 37 unplugged. With it plugged back in, won’t start, says keys are invalid. Even though it’s for Trans B+ (still don’t know what that is), it seems to be causing the Throttle Body to click like it’s turning on when fuse 37 is plugged in.

Also, my shift indicator isn’t illuminating (see pic). I can cycle the gears and nothing is illuminated. It also doesn’t go into any gear but I’ve verified it’s moving the lever at the transmission. UPDATE: trans shop didn’t tell me they didn’t add trans fluid since it wasn’t running. Added Mercon SP trans fluid and now it ONLY goes in reverse but ONLY with fuse 37 unplugged. Drive gears act like Park. Still no gear illuminated.

Last issue I’ll mention now is sometimes the cluster doesn’t turn off. It’s like the key is on the ON position even though the keys are in my hand, the door is shut, and the vehicle is locked (with fuse 37 plugged in)

Pulled the whole trans wiring harness to look for anything wrong. Every wire has continuity. Wrapped the exposed section of the harness and reinstalled.
 

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