100,000 Mile Service Advise Needed

[ssmock]

Hey Guys, I just hit 110,000 miles on my 2014 Expedition Limited 4x4 w HD Towing. Everything is stock on this truck except the battery and brake pads and one set of Michelins. I did have to replace a manifold under warranty that I cracked towing a car trailer over the Rockies. Otherwise it's been a perfect vehicle and I hate to do anything unnecessary to it. I bought it used in 2015 with 24K on it. One owner vehicle, not a lease. I keep a clean air filter in it and have the oil changed by the Ford Dealer every 5K miles and have the tires balanced and rotated. The truck runs great and I get an average of 14 to 14.5 MPG around town.
My questions are:
Plugs (What Brand is everyone using or should I keep it Ford OEM)
Coil Packs If it ain't broke don't fix it apply? Maybe replace the plug boots with the plugs.
Clean the Sensors during tune-up
Fuel Filter Does it have one? I think most are in the tank these days.
Axels and Transfer Case Supposed to be lifetime lube in the front and real axels and transfer case. Really lifetime or should it be changed? Synthetic Lube worth the extra cost of does it make a difference.
Radiator Fluid looks good and clean and it doesn't overheat at all.
Transmission Anything need to be done there?
Fan Belt and pulleys I'm sure they are original to the truck.
The cam phasers rattle only have a little noise during start-up but only when it's cold and after sitting for awhile.

Like I said I am the kind of a if "it ain't broke don't fix it kind of a person" but realize some prevention and maintenance is necessary. Need some expert opinions on what I should do / replace. Going to do this with my adult son, he is more familiar with the modern cars, I'm more familiar with the 60 year old stuff, hence the car trailer. Now that I have said all of this it will likely fall apart on my way home tonight. Anything I'm missing? Thanks Guys, I really like this truck, not even much of a Ford guy but this serves my purpose well.

 

[JasonH]

Why not have a mechanic perform a thorough inspection? Some items don't have a predetermined life, but are super inconvenient when they do fail. Radiator hoses fall into this category for sure. I lost a radiator (not hose) during a road trip from CA to TX. Ended up losing the entire car because it had over 200K and I destroyed the head gasket limping it to an auto parts shop. With repair + shipping to my new home, it was worthless. I suggest hoses, belts, and fluids. It's cheap insurance. Synthetic fluids are better for sure, especially for items that aren't seeing frequent changes.

 

[Plati]

No fuel filter (inside tank). No reason to replace diff transfer & tran fluids at 100K unless you went through water or suspect issue. Leave coil packs alone unless issue. Plugs definitely (I like OEM) ... did my at 80K. Do plugs again at 200K. Coolant YES w/flush (becomes corrosive with time). I did the serp belt on my 2014 at 98K but that was preemptive, probably not required & I carry the known good belt in the rear compartment.

I would spend some time looking around under and in engine compartment, might find something. Give it a superclean.

I pretty much follow the schedule in the Owners Manual but 80% some things.

 

[Trainmaster]

++ Mr. Sticker's advice; exactly how I do it.

I always change boots with the plugs, and I usually change the belt's idler and tension pulleys a bit after 100K miles as a bad $20 pulley bearing will leave you stranded.

 

[Kevin08]

Trans fluid should be changed first at 35k and then fluid and filter every 60k after that. The fluids that Ford stated as lifetime or long life was neither. Lifetime coolant turns to a muddy sludge. Definitely use Motorcraft spark plugs, coils, and filters. Coils can last a very long time, would not recommend replacing them unless a known failure of one. Where I live modern radiator hoses can outlast the vehicle, but if you live in hot dry climate and or tow heavy, I’d check the condition and replace if any signs of swelling or cracking.
Brake fluid isn’t lifetime either. I don’t know how often it’s recommended but I would brake fluid flush by 100k.

 

[Cyclone]

Lifetime fluid is a marketing decision, not an engineering decision. The term 'Lifetime' is also arbitrary.

I would drain/fill and filter the transmission. There is debate on doing a flush. I did one and it hasn't shifted perfectly since. So I wish I had just drained and refilled instead.
Diff and Transfer case. Yes, freshen them up. The have been doing their job for 100k.
Plugs. I did mine at 80k, but had a problem on one and chose to do them all.
Coils. Only if acting up.
Coolant. Yeah, it gets warn out, dirty. Like Engine oil, it heats up and down so often that chemcial reactions take place breaking down its original qualities. So replace.

 

[ssmock]

Thanks for the comments everyone. Looks like a little work ahead of me.

 

[07navi]

No fuel filter (inside tank). No reason to replace diff transfer & tran fluids at 100K unless you went through water or suspect issue. Leave coil packs alone unless issue. Plugs definitely (I like OEM) ... did my at 80K. Do plugs again at 200K. Coolant YES w/flush (becomes corrosive with time). I did the serp belt on my 2014 at 98K but that was preemptive, probably not required & I carry the known good belt in the rear compartment.

I would spend some time looking around under and in engine compartment, might find something. Give it a superclean.

I pretty much follow the schedule in the Owners Manual but 80% some things.

I agree but change plugs more often, they start wearing from day one like tires.

 

[Scott Carden]

I’ve did all the fluids on my at 100k and the only one that looked perfect was the rear axle fluid. Change all the fluids even brake fluid and trans filter. USE FORD fluids! Mixing fluids is never a good idea. It creates contamination and leads to early fluid breakdown. The front differential is always muddy Looking when you change it, don’t be alarmed. Change the plugs with ford or Bosch double fine wire iridium if you want to leave them in for a 100k. Fluid changes are soooooooo important. And never go to the full length of change interval of what any brand says. That is their Max life under ideal conditions. I live in Texas and I even use ford synthetic blend but the 5w-30 instead of 20 because it’s so hot hear the oil thins out to much.
Caution! If you are hearing the timing set rattle now, change it! They go bad from 75-125k and I made it to 120k when I started to hear mine. I brought it into ford and requested ford only parts as they Warrenty them. By the 2024 models the timing setup was better but when you start to hear the noise it’s already bad and they are known for eating into the front cover. Also I highly recommend changing both VCT sensors at the same time. It will improve fuel mileage and save you big headaches down the road. They are actually a wear item and go bad with age. coils are fine and you have a newer boot design and they are probably fine if you are not having issues. Just put some fresh dielectric grease on them when you change the plugs. Fuel filter is in the tank so no maintenance there. There is also no cabin filter. Spray down your mass air flow sensor with some CRC mass air flow sensor cleaner. And have the drivers side valve cover cleaned when you do the timing set. They will have that cover off already and it contains a built in PVC valve. If that gets dirty and sticks it’s an expensive repair by itself. Yes the timing set runs about 2000$ and with the above mentioned items included it’s will cost about 2300-2500$ but if a single VCT sensor fails or PVC valve sticks they are 1000$ by themselves for the repair.
oh and have them change the oil pump. Again they are there already and it’s a life saver. I recommend a Melling high volume. After that you should be problem free past 200k

 

[JoJoDaClown]

I suggest changing front and rear differential fluids, transfer case fluid, and brake fluid. The Front Differential fluid gets nasty and definitely should be done (I suggest every 50,000 miles).