Hello all! I know a good amount of us enjoy many features about the first generation Expedition, but I know few like the electronic Torque on Demand automatic 4WD nonsense. Especially those of us who use our trucks for off-roading/mudding/overlanding/etc. I got fed up when my transfer case shift motor gave out and my truck got stuck in 4LOW while out wheeling one weekend. Instead of dumping over $100 for a new shift motor into what I felt was a subpar 4x4 system, I decided to finally bite the bullet on converting her over to a manual transfer case. It was something I contemplated for a while, especially when the electronic clutch started locking up and binding around turns, and I was forced to do the brown wire mod a few years ago. I saw a few different posts with people asking about it, and only found one where someone actually completed the swap. Unfortunately it was not very detailed and didn't answer many questions. So I decided I would tackle the swap, and do a detailed write up in hopes that it'll make a few people's lives easier in the future! I will try to be as detailed as I can, as I am writing this after finishing the entire swap. I will list all of the Ford Motorcraft part numbers below, as well as miscellaneous parts, wiring diagrams, and pictures from the swap. I would also like to note now that my truck is a 2000 Eddie Bauer Expedition, with the 5.4 2V and 4R100. If you have a 4.6 or 4R70W, not everything in this write may apply to you.
Manual Transfer Case - XL34-7A195-AC
Lower shift lever assembly - F65Z-7210-BC
Upper shift lever - F65Z-7210-AB
4x4 Gearshift Switch - 4L3Z-7E440-AB
Shift Linkage (quantity 2) XL3Z-7B051-AA
Mechanical 4x4 GEM - YL34-14B205-BA
M14x1.75 flanged bolts, about and inch long (quantity 2)
Dorman Help! 74040 Shifter Bushing, if fabricating new shift linkage (quantity 2)
M8x1.25 (??) flange bolt, to secure upper shift lever (may not be correct size)
Spectre Performance 6284 Large Shift Boot
Standard Motor Products S699 Electrical Connector
In all honesty, I was surprised with how relatively easy the swap was. There were a only a handful of times where some light fabrication was required, such as drilling a new bolt hole in the lower shift lever assembly, or cutting the hole in the floor pan for the upper shift lever. I'd say the part that was the most tedious was for the wiring, because I wanted the lights on my dash to work correctly when I would shift into 4HI or 4LOW. Once I obtained wiring diagrams, it really wasn't all that bad.
There are only two instances where you might need to weld: 1) To modify the upper shift lever so it will clear the center console, and 2) to weld two shift linkages together if you do not want to fabricate a shift linkage out of some 1/8" or 3/16" flat stock.
I was adamant about keeping the center console, so i simply cut the upper shift lever above the base where it bolts to the lower shift lever assembly, and welded a 2" long piece of 1/2" steel rod to shift the lever over. I also welded in a small piece of metal as reinforcement for good measure. If you do not want to do this, or don't have the means, you can swap in an F150 from a Lariat or King Ranch. Just be aware that this could cause other obstacles to figure out if you have the rear climate controls or the rear audio entertainment controls in the center console, as I did. I didn't order a second shift linkage, so I didn't have two pieces to weld together; I just decided to fabricate a shift linkage out of some flat stock I had laying around.
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The shift linkage needs to be approximately 10-1/4" from hole to hole if your Expedition is equipped with a 4R100. I believe the shift linkage and lower shift lever assembly were designed for 4R70W equipped F150's, hence the need for modification/fabrication. If you have a 4R70W, you may not need to modify the linkage or the lower shift lever assembly.
If you are fabricating your own shift linkage, you will have to either purchase bushings for the linkage, or buy a shift linkage and press out the little plastic/rubber bushings and use them in your new linkage. If you want to just buy the bushings, I believe the Dorman Help! 74040 is the correct one, but I am not certain. You will need two. I don't remember exactly, but I believe the holes in the linkage were 3/8" or 7/16". I would double check and measure them before drilling.
Or if you have a means of welding, you can just buy two shift linkages and weld them together, cutting and fitting as necessary to ensure that the bushing holes are 10-1/4" center to center. Whatever you think works best for you.
You will see the holes just above the transmission gear select lever where the lower shift lever assembly will bolt to. IIRC, the bolt holes are M14x1.75. You'll most likely need to clean them out with a tap, or at the very least, a stiff steel bottle brush and some compressed air. Mine were pretty much full of dirt and mud, and the bolts didn't want to thread in easily. The lower shift lever assembly holes do not match up with the holes on the transmission. I made a template out of cardboard of the bolt holes, and transferred that to the lower shift lever assembly, lining the front bolt holes up and drilling a new second hole behind it. IIRC, the bolt hole was about 1/2".
You will also notice just above where the lower shift lever assembly bolts to on the transmission, is a stamped area in the floor pan. It's a rectangular shape that "lays" on the transmission tunnel. This is where you will cut your access hole for the upper shift lever. Some of my pictures show it a little bit from the top, inside the truck with the carpet pulled back. This is where Ford would have cut it from factory if it were to be equipped with mechanical 4x4. I have no idea if there were any gen 1 Expedition's equipped with mechanical 4x4, so maybe it has to do with it being the same platform as the 97-03 F150's? Who knows lol
You will notice that I cut through my rear driver side floor A/C vent. I didn't see a way around this, and I honestly wasn't concerned if the person sitting on the driver side 2nd row would end up with cold feet LOL so away I cut with the angle grinder. Please note, you do not need to cut the entire stamped section out. It will honestly only make it more difficult to find a shift boot later on to cover it. I cut mine a little too big, and I'm currently having trouble finding a shift boot long enough to cover the entire hole. So just be cautious.
To remove the old transfer case, and install the new one, I removed the transmission crossmember, the torsion bar/key crossmember, and the transfer case skid plate. Obviously the front and rear driveshaft will need to be removed as well, held in by those annoying 12 point 12mm bolts. If you are working on the ground, the truck will need to be supported on jack stands with the wheels off the ground, so you can remove the torsion bar crossmember.
I had a lift to perform the swap, and used a large heavy duty stand to support the transmission. The stand was adjustable, which was nice as I was able to adjust the angle of the transmission and give better access to the top transfer case bolts. I found that a combination of 13mm ratchetting wrenches, and 13mm sockets on ball-socket u joints worked extremely well for getting the transfer case bolts out. If you are doing this swap on the ground, I would definitely suggest a bottle jack or transmission jack to allow you to alter the transmission angle.
I reused my transmission to transfer case gasket, as it wasn't ripped and was in good condition. I just put the slightest thin film of gray RTV on both sides of the gasket. Then I barely snugged the bolts and gave it about an hour to let the RTV set a little bit, before torquing the transfer case bolts down. While I was waiting for the RTV to set, that was when I was fabricating the shift linkage.
Before installing the front and rear driveshafts, I would replace the 4x4 gearshift sensor if you haven't already. Once the front driveshaft is installed, there is next to no clearance to get in there and replace it. You will need a 22mm wrench or deep socket. I tightened it until it bottomed out against the flat washer, then snugged it the tiniest bit after that to make sure the washer was "crushed" and sealed. Also, cut off the little plastic "fins" on the plug part of the sensor, so the listed female connector will plug on with no issue.
Finish reinstalling the crossmembers and skid plates and whatever else you took off, and if you don't care to have lights working on the dash, then that's it! Bolt you upper shift lever on, slap a shifter boot on her, and you're ready for some mechanical 4x4 fun!
But if you're like me and you want everything to perform as OEM as possible, then here is all of the information for the wiring side of things.
WIRING
Now, I am unsure if you ACTUALLY have to replace the GEM, but I did it for good measure. I wasn't sure if the AUTO4WD GEM would have all of the circuitry to perform the different functions, because you will be using pin locations that were not used prior. To replace the GEM, you will need to disconnect the battery, pull the lower panel below the steering wheel, unbolt the two main connectors to the Central Junction Block Fuse Box in the cab (they are behind the fuse box at the bottom, each secured by a 10mm bolt), remove the four 10mm nuts and bolts securing fuse box, then removing the fuse box, disconnecting the three GEM harnesses as you pull the fuse box out. The GEM is secured by three T20 screws. Simply unbolt, disconnect old GEM, and install new GEM.
Now the fun part. Of the three GEM harnesses, you will be depinning/repinning the 22 pin connector (C239) and the 26 pin connector (C241). To unlock the pins, you will have to pry out the white locking tab. It will only come out a little bit, so don't spend a half hour trying to pull the entire thing out like I did LOL. Once the locking tab has been unlocked, all you need to do to remove the pins is pull them with some sort of soft jaw plier. I say soft jawed, because I felt like the needle nose pliers I used could have damaged the wiring inside. So just be mindful. But counter intuitively, you'll need to pull up on the wire with a decent amount of force to pull it out of the connector. Just make sure the locking tab is out in the unlocked position, and it will come out. You can double check that the pins are unlocked by looking from the back where the wires feed in, and seeing the white tab being aligned with the gray casing of the connector.
Now, you can do this next part in any way you want, but this is how I did it. On C239, the 22 pin connector, I pulled ALL of the wiring that had to do with the Electronic 4x4 shift motor or the Torque on Demand relay. Again, I wasn't sure if there would be any unnecessary voltage getting pumped into the GEM, and I didn't want any weird electrical issues to deal with down the road. I did disconnect the shift motor relay underneath the dash, above the radio, but I would rather be safe than sorry. I used two of the wires from the transfer case shift motor for my 4x4 gearshift switch: pins 18 and 19, the orange w/ white stripe and brown w/white stripe. I chose these wires because they run directly to the transfer case shift motor connector, and I could simply cut them off at the connector and splice in my female two pin plug for the gearshift switch. Figured it would be much easier than running new wire to the switch on the transfer case. I pinned the brown w/ white strip wire from pin 19 to pin 3. I set aside the orange w/ white stripe from pin 18 to be spliced into my 4x4 LOW feed to the PCM. You can use whatever wires you like, but I personally would suggest avoiding the ones that feed to the relays. Any of the pins 18 through 21 should be safe to use.
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According to the wiring diagram, the solid orange wire on C239, the 22 pin connector, is supposed to be in pin 14. Mine was in pin 15 and there was a solid white wire in pin 14. I have no idea what the white wire is for, and until my shop manuals and wiring diagrams for 2000 Expedition arrive, I won't know lol but I don't believe it's important. I simply removed the white wire from pin 14, and moved the solid orange wire from pin 15 to pin 14. This solid orange wire is for the electromagnetic clutch in the transfer case, used for Shift on the Fly or Torque on Demand. I am hooking this up hoping that I won't have any annoying blinking 4x4 light as is common with the brown wire mod LOL.
Next, on C241, the 26 pin connector, you will remove the light blue w/ black stripe wire in pin 16, in the same manner as stated before. Now you will cut the pin off of C241-16 (light blue w/black stripe wire) and whatever wire you set aside from C239 (mine was the orange w/white stripe wire from pin 18) and connect the wires together in whatever way you see fit. I buttspliced mine. I then cut the pins off of all of the wiring I removed from the C239 that relates to the electronic 4x4, taped off the ends, and tucked them away. I don't believe they will be getting any power since I disconnected the relay, but I did this as an extra precaution.
That wraps up all of the wiring behind the dash. Install the harnesses into the GEM, bolt everything back together, and move on to the wiring underneath the truck for the gearshift switch and SOTF electromagnetic clutch. You're almost there!
Locate your transfer case shift motor connector. Find the large brown wire, as well as whatever two wires you selected for your gearshift switch (again, I used brown w/white stripe and orange w/ white stripe). On the tailshaft housing of the transfer case is a single brown w/white stripe wire coming out of it. This is your Shift on the Fly electromagnetic clutch wire. This will allow you to shift the truck into 4HI while moving. Connect this wire to the large brown wire from the transfer case shift motor connector however you see fit. I cut off the OEM plug and used male and female spade connectors, in the event the transfer case needs to be removed in the future.
The last thing to do is to wire up the female wiring connector for the gearshift select switch. The manner in which the wiring is hooked up is important, but unfortunately I did not make note of the correct orientation. This switch is what will illuminate the '4x4' and 'Low Range' lights on the instrument cluster. I actually wired it backwards the first time, and what happened was when I shifted into 4HI, the 'Low Range' light illuminated, and when I shifted into 4LOW, then the '4x4' light would illuminate, as well as the 'Low Range' light that was already on. So I would suggest connecting the wires of the female plug to your chosen wires from the shift motor connector temporarily, double checking that the lights on the instrument cluster illuminate correctly (switch the wires if necessary), then finally permanently connect the wires however you see fit. I buttspliced my wires.
And viola! You know have a first generation Expedition with mechanical 4x4, and properly operating indicator lights on the instrument cluster! All in all, the swap isn't terribly expensive, with mine costing around $600. You can definitely save some money by buying brands other than Motorcraft, but that's just me. The transfer case only cost me $260 from eBay with a warranty. If you're someone who is annoyed with the electronic automatic 4WD nonsense, especially if you do a lot of off roading or wheeling, I would HIGHLY suggest this swap. I am beyond happy with it.
I will try to update this thread if anything pops up that I forgot or if anyone has any questions. I hope this helps at least a couple people. I wish I would have had a nice write up like this when I decided to tackle it! LOL
Cheers everyone
Manual Transfer Case - XL34-7A195-AC
Lower shift lever assembly - F65Z-7210-BC
Upper shift lever - F65Z-7210-AB
4x4 Gearshift Switch - 4L3Z-7E440-AB
Shift Linkage (quantity 2) XL3Z-7B051-AA
Mechanical 4x4 GEM - YL34-14B205-BA
M14x1.75 flanged bolts, about and inch long (quantity 2)
Dorman Help! 74040 Shifter Bushing, if fabricating new shift linkage (quantity 2)
M8x1.25 (??) flange bolt, to secure upper shift lever (may not be correct size)
Spectre Performance 6284 Large Shift Boot
Standard Motor Products S699 Electrical Connector
In all honesty, I was surprised with how relatively easy the swap was. There were a only a handful of times where some light fabrication was required, such as drilling a new bolt hole in the lower shift lever assembly, or cutting the hole in the floor pan for the upper shift lever. I'd say the part that was the most tedious was for the wiring, because I wanted the lights on my dash to work correctly when I would shift into 4HI or 4LOW. Once I obtained wiring diagrams, it really wasn't all that bad.
There are only two instances where you might need to weld: 1) To modify the upper shift lever so it will clear the center console, and 2) to weld two shift linkages together if you do not want to fabricate a shift linkage out of some 1/8" or 3/16" flat stock.
I was adamant about keeping the center console, so i simply cut the upper shift lever above the base where it bolts to the lower shift lever assembly, and welded a 2" long piece of 1/2" steel rod to shift the lever over. I also welded in a small piece of metal as reinforcement for good measure. If you do not want to do this, or don't have the means, you can swap in an F150 from a Lariat or King Ranch. Just be aware that this could cause other obstacles to figure out if you have the rear climate controls or the rear audio entertainment controls in the center console, as I did. I didn't order a second shift linkage, so I didn't have two pieces to weld together; I just decided to fabricate a shift linkage out of some flat stock I had laying around.
View media item 7150View media item 7151View media item 7158View media item 7161View media item 7162View media item 7149View media item 7148
The shift linkage needs to be approximately 10-1/4" from hole to hole if your Expedition is equipped with a 4R100. I believe the shift linkage and lower shift lever assembly were designed for 4R70W equipped F150's, hence the need for modification/fabrication. If you have a 4R70W, you may not need to modify the linkage or the lower shift lever assembly.
If you are fabricating your own shift linkage, you will have to either purchase bushings for the linkage, or buy a shift linkage and press out the little plastic/rubber bushings and use them in your new linkage. If you want to just buy the bushings, I believe the Dorman Help! 74040 is the correct one, but I am not certain. You will need two. I don't remember exactly, but I believe the holes in the linkage were 3/8" or 7/16". I would double check and measure them before drilling.
Or if you have a means of welding, you can just buy two shift linkages and weld them together, cutting and fitting as necessary to ensure that the bushing holes are 10-1/4" center to center. Whatever you think works best for you.
You will see the holes just above the transmission gear select lever where the lower shift lever assembly will bolt to. IIRC, the bolt holes are M14x1.75. You'll most likely need to clean them out with a tap, or at the very least, a stiff steel bottle brush and some compressed air. Mine were pretty much full of dirt and mud, and the bolts didn't want to thread in easily. The lower shift lever assembly holes do not match up with the holes on the transmission. I made a template out of cardboard of the bolt holes, and transferred that to the lower shift lever assembly, lining the front bolt holes up and drilling a new second hole behind it. IIRC, the bolt hole was about 1/2".
You will also notice just above where the lower shift lever assembly bolts to on the transmission, is a stamped area in the floor pan. It's a rectangular shape that "lays" on the transmission tunnel. This is where you will cut your access hole for the upper shift lever. Some of my pictures show it a little bit from the top, inside the truck with the carpet pulled back. This is where Ford would have cut it from factory if it were to be equipped with mechanical 4x4. I have no idea if there were any gen 1 Expedition's equipped with mechanical 4x4, so maybe it has to do with it being the same platform as the 97-03 F150's? Who knows lol
You will notice that I cut through my rear driver side floor A/C vent. I didn't see a way around this, and I honestly wasn't concerned if the person sitting on the driver side 2nd row would end up with cold feet LOL so away I cut with the angle grinder. Please note, you do not need to cut the entire stamped section out. It will honestly only make it more difficult to find a shift boot later on to cover it. I cut mine a little too big, and I'm currently having trouble finding a shift boot long enough to cover the entire hole. So just be cautious.
To remove the old transfer case, and install the new one, I removed the transmission crossmember, the torsion bar/key crossmember, and the transfer case skid plate. Obviously the front and rear driveshaft will need to be removed as well, held in by those annoying 12 point 12mm bolts. If you are working on the ground, the truck will need to be supported on jack stands with the wheels off the ground, so you can remove the torsion bar crossmember.
I had a lift to perform the swap, and used a large heavy duty stand to support the transmission. The stand was adjustable, which was nice as I was able to adjust the angle of the transmission and give better access to the top transfer case bolts. I found that a combination of 13mm ratchetting wrenches, and 13mm sockets on ball-socket u joints worked extremely well for getting the transfer case bolts out. If you are doing this swap on the ground, I would definitely suggest a bottle jack or transmission jack to allow you to alter the transmission angle.
I reused my transmission to transfer case gasket, as it wasn't ripped and was in good condition. I just put the slightest thin film of gray RTV on both sides of the gasket. Then I barely snugged the bolts and gave it about an hour to let the RTV set a little bit, before torquing the transfer case bolts down. While I was waiting for the RTV to set, that was when I was fabricating the shift linkage.
Before installing the front and rear driveshafts, I would replace the 4x4 gearshift sensor if you haven't already. Once the front driveshaft is installed, there is next to no clearance to get in there and replace it. You will need a 22mm wrench or deep socket. I tightened it until it bottomed out against the flat washer, then snugged it the tiniest bit after that to make sure the washer was "crushed" and sealed. Also, cut off the little plastic "fins" on the plug part of the sensor, so the listed female connector will plug on with no issue.
Finish reinstalling the crossmembers and skid plates and whatever else you took off, and if you don't care to have lights working on the dash, then that's it! Bolt you upper shift lever on, slap a shifter boot on her, and you're ready for some mechanical 4x4 fun!
But if you're like me and you want everything to perform as OEM as possible, then here is all of the information for the wiring side of things.
WIRING
Now, I am unsure if you ACTUALLY have to replace the GEM, but I did it for good measure. I wasn't sure if the AUTO4WD GEM would have all of the circuitry to perform the different functions, because you will be using pin locations that were not used prior. To replace the GEM, you will need to disconnect the battery, pull the lower panel below the steering wheel, unbolt the two main connectors to the Central Junction Block Fuse Box in the cab (they are behind the fuse box at the bottom, each secured by a 10mm bolt), remove the four 10mm nuts and bolts securing fuse box, then removing the fuse box, disconnecting the three GEM harnesses as you pull the fuse box out. The GEM is secured by three T20 screws. Simply unbolt, disconnect old GEM, and install new GEM.
Now the fun part. Of the three GEM harnesses, you will be depinning/repinning the 22 pin connector (C239) and the 26 pin connector (C241). To unlock the pins, you will have to pry out the white locking tab. It will only come out a little bit, so don't spend a half hour trying to pull the entire thing out like I did LOL. Once the locking tab has been unlocked, all you need to do to remove the pins is pull them with some sort of soft jaw plier. I say soft jawed, because I felt like the needle nose pliers I used could have damaged the wiring inside. So just be mindful. But counter intuitively, you'll need to pull up on the wire with a decent amount of force to pull it out of the connector. Just make sure the locking tab is out in the unlocked position, and it will come out. You can double check that the pins are unlocked by looking from the back where the wires feed in, and seeing the white tab being aligned with the gray casing of the connector.
Now, you can do this next part in any way you want, but this is how I did it. On C239, the 22 pin connector, I pulled ALL of the wiring that had to do with the Electronic 4x4 shift motor or the Torque on Demand relay. Again, I wasn't sure if there would be any unnecessary voltage getting pumped into the GEM, and I didn't want any weird electrical issues to deal with down the road. I did disconnect the shift motor relay underneath the dash, above the radio, but I would rather be safe than sorry. I used two of the wires from the transfer case shift motor for my 4x4 gearshift switch: pins 18 and 19, the orange w/ white stripe and brown w/white stripe. I chose these wires because they run directly to the transfer case shift motor connector, and I could simply cut them off at the connector and splice in my female two pin plug for the gearshift switch. Figured it would be much easier than running new wire to the switch on the transfer case. I pinned the brown w/ white strip wire from pin 19 to pin 3. I set aside the orange w/ white stripe from pin 18 to be spliced into my 4x4 LOW feed to the PCM. You can use whatever wires you like, but I personally would suggest avoiding the ones that feed to the relays. Any of the pins 18 through 21 should be safe to use.
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According to the wiring diagram, the solid orange wire on C239, the 22 pin connector, is supposed to be in pin 14. Mine was in pin 15 and there was a solid white wire in pin 14. I have no idea what the white wire is for, and until my shop manuals and wiring diagrams for 2000 Expedition arrive, I won't know lol but I don't believe it's important. I simply removed the white wire from pin 14, and moved the solid orange wire from pin 15 to pin 14. This solid orange wire is for the electromagnetic clutch in the transfer case, used for Shift on the Fly or Torque on Demand. I am hooking this up hoping that I won't have any annoying blinking 4x4 light as is common with the brown wire mod LOL.
Next, on C241, the 26 pin connector, you will remove the light blue w/ black stripe wire in pin 16, in the same manner as stated before. Now you will cut the pin off of C241-16 (light blue w/black stripe wire) and whatever wire you set aside from C239 (mine was the orange w/white stripe wire from pin 18) and connect the wires together in whatever way you see fit. I buttspliced mine. I then cut the pins off of all of the wiring I removed from the C239 that relates to the electronic 4x4, taped off the ends, and tucked them away. I don't believe they will be getting any power since I disconnected the relay, but I did this as an extra precaution.
That wraps up all of the wiring behind the dash. Install the harnesses into the GEM, bolt everything back together, and move on to the wiring underneath the truck for the gearshift switch and SOTF electromagnetic clutch. You're almost there!
Locate your transfer case shift motor connector. Find the large brown wire, as well as whatever two wires you selected for your gearshift switch (again, I used brown w/white stripe and orange w/ white stripe). On the tailshaft housing of the transfer case is a single brown w/white stripe wire coming out of it. This is your Shift on the Fly electromagnetic clutch wire. This will allow you to shift the truck into 4HI while moving. Connect this wire to the large brown wire from the transfer case shift motor connector however you see fit. I cut off the OEM plug and used male and female spade connectors, in the event the transfer case needs to be removed in the future.
The last thing to do is to wire up the female wiring connector for the gearshift select switch. The manner in which the wiring is hooked up is important, but unfortunately I did not make note of the correct orientation. This switch is what will illuminate the '4x4' and 'Low Range' lights on the instrument cluster. I actually wired it backwards the first time, and what happened was when I shifted into 4HI, the 'Low Range' light illuminated, and when I shifted into 4LOW, then the '4x4' light would illuminate, as well as the 'Low Range' light that was already on. So I would suggest connecting the wires of the female plug to your chosen wires from the shift motor connector temporarily, double checking that the lights on the instrument cluster illuminate correctly (switch the wires if necessary), then finally permanently connect the wires however you see fit. I buttspliced my wires.
And viola! You know have a first generation Expedition with mechanical 4x4, and properly operating indicator lights on the instrument cluster! All in all, the swap isn't terribly expensive, with mine costing around $600. You can definitely save some money by buying brands other than Motorcraft, but that's just me. The transfer case only cost me $260 from eBay with a warranty. If you're someone who is annoyed with the electronic automatic 4WD nonsense, especially if you do a lot of off roading or wheeling, I would HIGHLY suggest this swap. I am beyond happy with it.
I will try to update this thread if anything pops up that I forgot or if anyone has any questions. I hope this helps at least a couple people. I wish I would have had a nice write up like this when I decided to tackle it! LOL
Cheers everyone
