1998 Eddie Bauer with codes...Where do I start??

[Hoseman]

Hey guys, just looking for a little direction or confirmation.
Just put a brand new Ford Crate Motor in my Expy. 5.4 2v completely stock except for a few minor mods. True Duals with 2 high flow cats, Series 77 K&N cold air, JBA 1 5/8" primary ceramic shorty headers, & stock 3.73 gears with 33" tires.

The original motor finally gave up (burned or warped valves on #7 and #8, Loss of compression) with 195K and after sitting in the yard for a couple of years I decided to get it going again. Dropped in a new crate motor, cleaned the EGR ports in the manifold spacer, New EGR tube, New DPFE sensor, New Upstream O2's, New MAF (old one was not dirty), New IAT sensor, New Coils, New Injectors, New Motorcraft plugs, All new intake gaskets, New water pump, belts, hoses, New radiator, replaced several old vacuum hoses that were deteriorated, plus a few other things that needed attention like u-joints, shocks, tires, ect.

Here's my dilemma.. Before the old motor took a dive it was getting around 17 to 18 mpg. No codes, no CEL. This was with the K&N, True Duals but no headers, and 33" tires. After the new motor it started throwing codes P0133, P0401, P1131, P1132 and was getting horrible fuel mileage. Maybe 8 or 9mpg on a good day provided I wasn't driving into the wind. I pulled the manifold spacer and cleaned the EGR ports and cleaned the throttle body, I replaced both upstream O2 sensors, I replaced the DPFE sensor, installed all new Bosch injectors, and all new coils (still don't understand why the shop didn't install new coils and injectors on a brand new crate motor!!). This improved the fuel economy to about 11 or 12 mpg and stopped all the codes. Still seemed to be running rough and wasn't getting near the fuel mileage is was before the new motor so I replaced the MAF and IAT sensor. Running much smoother now but yesterday threw a couple of new codes. P0171 and P0174 which is system lean bank 1 and system lean bank 2. I know this can be a vacuum leak so I started looking for possible locations for a leak but haven't been able to locate anything. Fuel mileage hasn't changed and is still running around 12mpg.

Am I missing something? Is there a sensor that would effect fuel trim that I'm missing? I've seen some threads where a weak fuel pump can cause the P0171 and P0174 codes but would that cause the horrible fuel mileage? STFT and LTFT are all over the place with LTFT running consistently in the =25% range and the STFT ranging between -8 and +14. I have a PDF of live data if that would help.

Just trying to find a place to start and any help would be appreciated. Leaning toward a new fuel pump and filter but would like to have a little input from someone who knows a little more that what I do.

Thanks,

 

[Hamfisted]

Some vacuum leaks are really hard to find. I would recommend a smoke test of the intake system. The lean codes can also come from low fuel pressure but that's less common than the vacuum leak. How's your fuel pressure at the rail schrader valve ? You should see 45-55 psi. It should also hold about 25 psi after engine shutdown to aid in starting.

Mechanics Smoke Test Machine on Amazon

Fuel Pressure Test Kit on Amazon








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[Hoseman]

Haven't tested the fuel pressure yet, planning on doing that this evening. Got a really busy day planned and not sure I'll have time but I'm making an effort. LOL. I'll post those results as soon as I have them.

 

[JVinOlathe]

P0171 and P0174 inidcate one of 4 issues. Defective PCV valve; this an easy and inexpensive fix. A bad MAF sensor, you can clean it using MAF sensor cleaner only; any other cleaner wll ldamage the sensor. There are videos on the internet on how to test the MAF sensor using a voltmeter. The last and most likely is a vacuum leak. There are 3 ways of testin gthis, use a fluied like starting fluid and spray around hoses that could have leaks; if the iddle increase then you found your leak. The problem with this procedure is that you have to aim the fluid very close to the are awhere the leak is and some hoses are very hard to get to. The second method uses propane; it will get to places the fluid will not, but again, if you are not close to the leak it will not detect it. The third method is the smoke test that will ceratinly detect all leaks; many happen around the throtle body. Lsst, be sure to clean the throtle body; sometimes it gunks up and causes issues.

 

[Hoseman]

Thanks for the input guys. I'm finding it hard to find the time to dig into this, but hopefully it will ease up a little this weekend or maybe next week and I'll have a little extra time to really dig into the vacuum leak investigation. LOL. I'm leaning hard in that direction and will probably just replace the PCV valve just to be safe.

 

[Expd830]

I replaced my motor 2 months ago and all of the other parts my mechanic wanted to go new also, and when he was done nothing but perfection from this truck after 21 years!!!

 

[Hoseman]

Ok, so update on finding the issues with the codes. Took it to a mechanic friend who was going to try to track it down for me. Due to Ford limiting access to their programming for the older vehicles we ran into a dead end and he recommended a dealership who he trusted. That dealer went through it and found several problems. Found out the dealer who did the engine swap (Bud Shell Ford in Dexter, MO) reused the intake gaskets and one was leaking at the very back between the upper and lower intake. Also had a purge valve hose that had a vacuum leak that needed replaced. Smoke tested the entire system and found no other leaks so I thought I had it beat. So far I've replaced the MAF, IAT, IAC, DPFE sensor, New intake gaskets, and the thermostat assembly (Dealer reused the old thermostat when replacing the motor!!) After driving a few miles I popped the same three codes that I had narrowed it down to before taking it to a new dealer. P1401, P0171, & P0174. Due to the '98 OBDII being so primitive, he said there wasn't any definitive answer to what was wrong. Spent about 4 hours in Diag and he basically told me it was a rat's nest in the EVAP system. After some serious discussion, we decided we didn't want to jump into it for fear of chasing their tail and costing me an arm and a leg trying to find the sensor, solenoid, or valve that was causing the issue. Instead, I'll be tackling it myself and just working through the system until I find the problem. He said to start with the EGR and work from there to find the problem and I would just have to start replacing stuff until I found it. Talked to a local tuner and he told me the same thing. Truck is running great and performs like it should with a new motor except the fuel mileage. IT SUCKS!!! Replacing the EGR Valve and EGR Solenoid first and working my way back through the EVAP system until I can find the issue. Will probably end up replacing it all including the charcoal canister, purge solenoid, & fuel pump. In to deep to quit now, but sure looks like it's going to be hunt and peck until I find that elusive sensor that's causing all the problems. LOL.

 

[tekrsq]

Ok, so update on finding the issues with the codes. Took it to a mechanic friend who was going to try to track it down for me. Due to Ford limiting access to their programming for the older vehicles we ran into a dead end and he recommended a dealership who he trusted. That dealer went through it and found several problems. Found out the dealer who did the engine swap (Bud Shell Ford in Dexter, MO) reused the intake gaskets and one was leaking at the very back between the upper and lower intake. Also had a purge valve hose that had a vacuum leak that needed replaced. Smoke tested the entire system and found no other leaks so I thought I had it beat. So far I've replaced the MAF, IAT, IAC, DPFE sensor, New intake gaskets, and the thermostat assembly (Dealer reused the old thermostat when replacing the motor!!) After driving a few miles I popped the same three codes that I had narrowed it down to before taking it to a new dealer. P1401, P0171, & P0174. Due to the '98 OBDII being so primitive, he said there wasn't any definitive answer to what was wrong. Spent about 4 hours in Diag and he basically told me it was a rat's nest in the EVAP system. After some serious discussion, we decided we didn't want to jump into it for fear of chasing their tail and costing me an arm and a leg trying to find the sensor, solenoid, or valve that was causing the issue. Instead, I'll be tackling it myself and just working through the system until I find the problem. He said to start with the EGR and work from there to find the problem and I would just have to start replacing stuff until I found it. Talked to a local tuner and he told me the same thing. Truck is running great and performs like it should with a new motor except the fuel mileage. IT SUCKS!!! Replacing the EGR Valve and EGR Solenoid first and working my way back through the EVAP system until I can find the issue. Will probably end up replacing it all including the charcoal canister, purge solenoid, & fuel pump. In to deep to quit now, but sure looks like it's going to be hunt and peck until I find that elusive sensor that's causing all the problems. LOL.

Did you ever figure out the issue ??

 

[Hoseman]

Still working on it. I picked up a ForScan adapter and have been researching endlessly on what the problems might be. It did indicate I've got a small vacuum leak somewhere in the EVAP system but I haven't been able to track it down even with a smoke test. I haven't had a lot of time to work on it, but I picked up a new charcoal canister and canister vent solenoid last week to install as soon as I get a chance. Next step is going to be to drop the tank and replace everything on top of it. Might as well put everything in new condition that I can while I've got it out. It runs great, just gets crappy fuel mileage so I've been driving it hoping it will throw a code that will give away the problem. But that doesn't seem to be working, so now that it's cooled off and I'm not working in 110 degree temperatures I'll spend a little more time on it. Ordering an electric fan conversion to get rid of the behemoth that it came with as well as improve AC performance, and as soon as I get my EVAP problem solved it's getting a tune from 5Star Tuning. Even thought about putting a supercharger on it once I get everything straightened out, but haven't decided for sure yet. I don't want to try to make a Lightning out of it, just improve towing performance and everyday driveability.

 

[MesaGuy]

@Hoseman I hate to be the voice of pessimism on your fuel milage. (The EVAP,, good luck, that's solvable if you stay on it.) But 12MPG for the 97-2001 2V engines is in the window. (Mine has always gotten terrible milage, since brand new.) About 11.5 city, and 13.5-14.5 freeway. I have the 4x4 model '99, which is in constant AWD mode always.) Years that have the 2WD switch option do a little better, usually +1 MPG.

I hear people that have gotten what you used to get e.g. 17-18MPG, that is at the VERY high end of the scale, whereas 10-11 is the bottom. Common is GOOD is 13MPG city, and 15MPG freeway. Mine has always done worse. No codes, did have to replace the roller followers on the left (drivers) bank2 block, but basically stock. Its always just been a gas hog. Mine is also, to some extent expected to be on the low side, as I have the tow package...

That is the small tires, the limited slip diff, and the lowest gear ratio. That provided for maximum tow dead-start torque (by Ford), but it costs gas mileage. People getting 13MPG city, and 15-16MPG freeway usually have slightly larger tires, and a higher gear ratio, and most of them have 2WD only models.