2000 Expedition 5.4 4x4 P0171 & P0174

[MikeA]

Mr67Stang,
If i read everything correctly, everything was fine with the 98 transmission and when you installed the 2000 transmission back in and hooked sensor back up, you started having all these problems, my question to you is,


Did you clear pcm after trans swap so the computor can learn the new settings for the trans?

 

[Mr67Stang]

Yes, I cleared the codes. In fact, right now there are no codes. But, I can see the idle run up to 2200 rpm at start up and see the LTFT go to 25% after getting to closed loop running. So, the codes will come back given enough time.

I checked the EGR valve today. I removed it and applied vacuum to it and it worked as designed.

I am removing the intake manifold tomorrow.

 

[grantpa]

What is the best replacement manifold to buy??? I've read differing opinions on the Dorman manifold. Is there an aluminum replacement-perhaps a performance-type-that will LAST and work??? I've got an '00 EB with the 4.6 and 177K with no issues-YET! But I'm trying to prepare myself for when the SHTFordPlasticManiflod. Suggestions?

 

[Gumbyalso]

I'm not sure, but I doubt it. Rock Auto shows two different Dorman part numbers - one for the plastic entire 2000 manifold (DORMAN 615188) and a different one for the aluminum lower intake manifold for the 1998 (DORMAN 615285). I got mine from Ford. I priced it online and then got my local dealer's part department to (begrudgingly) match that priced. (They have never done that since.) Possibly Dorman makes them for Ford. You may want to pay Ford an hour to diagnose first. Of course, that hour will cost you about as much as the Dorman intake manifold from Rock Auto. Diagnosing by replacing can be expensive sometimes, but I'm probably more guilty of that than most. I do get lucky on the first try more often than not.

I just read that you were removing the manifold. Saved yourself the diagnostic hour with Ford. I'd go with the Dorman. It's not too expensive.

 

[Mr67Stang]

I'm not sure, but I doubt it. Rock Auto shows two different Dorman part numbers - one for the plastic entire 2000 manifold (DORMAN 615188) and a different one for the aluminum lower intake manifold for the 1998 (DORMAN 615285). I got mine from Ford. I priced it online and then got my local dealer's part department to (begrudgingly) match that priced. (They have never done that since.) Possibly Dorman makes them for Ford. You may want to pay Ford an hour to diagnose first. Of course, that hour will cost you about as much as the Dorman intake manifold from Rock Auto. Diagnosing by replacing can be expensive sometimes, but I'm probably more guilty of that than most. I do get lucky on the first try more often than not.

I just read that you were removing the manifold. Saved yourself the diagnostic hour with Ford. I'd go with the Dorman. It's not too expensive.

Yes, I cant stand that I cant see the manifold well enough to be certain that it is not the problem. Once removed, I will thoroughly clean it and inspect it for cracks. I was not impressed with the condition of the upper gasket. the amount of dirt on top of the gasket where you would expect it to be clean by being compressed and sealed, was not. I am not stopping there. the whole intake is coming off. It may just need new gaskets.

 

[Mr67Stang]

For anyone following, I will let you know the problem appears to be solved. After removing the intake manifold and inspection revealed NO cracks but the gaskets appeared that they could allow undeterred air in, I replaced the gaskets and put it all back together. Just for good measure, I soaked the fuel injectors in marval mystery oil then hooked each one up to a 9 volt battery and shot carb cleaner through them and then re soaked them in the marval mystery oil. I also changed all 8 spark plugs while the manifold was off as it would never be easier to do then while the manifold was off. I fired it up and it no longer shoots up to 2200 rpm. It sounded good. I warmed it all the way up to get into closed loop running and my fuel trim numbers, both STFT and LTFT where bouncing around + or - 3%... PERFECT! Before, The LTFT was pegged at +25% and the STFT was about +15% to +19% at idle in closed loop. I still have to test drive it, but the numbers are where they should be.

Edit:// I put a little over 40 miles on it today and all is good. No more CEL/MIL on my dash. Thanks to everyone who helped.