2003 Expedition Face Lift Begins

Discussion in '2nd Gen - 2003 - 2006' started by Vancouver Bob, Mar 9, 2017.

  1. FRD88

    FRD88 Full Access Members

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    Thanks! I would really like a metal skid plate as well, I have already looked at the local yards with no luck.

    Next is getting the Rancho quicklift's I have installed once I can get some new rubber. It will be a while before I can purchase tires because my father in law invited my wife and I to Key West this August. Once my mom said she would visit and watch the kids so we can go kid free I said lets go. I have never been around the ocean so I am excited and figured the tires can wait.

    Recently I have installed a new radio that I can hook up a rear camera to and swapped all interior lights with LEDs.
     
  2. FRD88

    FRD88 Full Access Members

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    Here are a couple quick pictures I took today to show the green color a little better.

    upload_2018-5-16_14-57-18.png upload_2018-5-16_14-57-29.png
     
  3. Vancouver Bob

    Vancouver Bob Full Access Members

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    That looks good! They did a great job on the bumper... fit's like a glove!
     
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  4. Vancouver Bob

    Vancouver Bob Full Access Members

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    Decided it was time to replace my front calipers (for the third time) and thought I'd replace the hubs at the same time. Going with EBC GD7137 with the orange stuff pads.

    Getting the hubs replaced was easy enough. Had a heck of a time trying to find where I connect the anti-lock brake sensor under the hood. When I disconnected it I simply reached up from under the wheel well, squeezed the connected here and there until it disconnected. But when i went to reconnect it, I couldn't find where I disconnected it from! Couldn't see it from the top with the hood open so finally just started reaching around everywhere I could reach from underneath and finally found it. The mating connector is tucked away underneath the coolant tank.

    While I had the hub off I was examining the inside and thought things looked a little roughed up. Tried to make sense of how the hub actuator hubs worked. So started the engine and put it in 4ALL to see which part moved... made more sense.

    Got the driver side done and will get the passenger side next.

    One thing I noticed when I disconnected the outer tie rod was one or two decent sized metal shavings under the bolt to the ball joint. Noticed this back when I replaced the tie rods as well. Made me wonder if the tie rod end isn't working it's way loose in the knuckle from all the shuddering due to "warpped' rotors I've had over it's life. I'll pull the tie rod end off again and look to see if I can tell where the metal is coming from. I'm still getting a very slight wobble in the front and am thinking this may be where it's coming from. The tire feels tight but perhaps under load it gives just a bit.

    Here are some pictures I managed to grab...

    Backside of the old hub...

    IMG_9803.JPG


    Looking in at the hub actuator (disengaged), looks rather chewed up in there. Should have replaced these while I was at it. Will get a pair on order... can maybe get them here by the weekend when I do the passenger side.

    IMG_9804.JPG

    Hub actuator (engaged)...

    IMG_9812.JPG

    One side completed. Took me a while and a couple of trips to the auto parts store (brake cleaner, grease, loctite). I will replace the brake fluid while I'm at it. The black protective coating will come off once I bed the pads.

    IMG_9817.JPG
     
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  5. Prince_Polaris

    Prince_Polaris Full Access Members

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    Wow... I just read through this entire thread, awesome mods guys! You're all really making me wanna turn my expy into a beast, too....

    This year, the radio, in the future, everything!
     
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  6. Vancouver Bob

    Vancouver Bob Full Access Members

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    Hey, you've got to start somewhere! :)
     
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  7. Vancouver Bob

    Vancouver Bob Full Access Members

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    Received the new hub actuators yesterday and managed to get the one side done. It's like 97 degrees out and I was sweating my [email protected] off! I tried getting the half shaft out without disconnecting anything but that was proving to be impossible so disconnected, pulled the tie rod and upper ball joint. I also needed to support the truck with some jack stands so that I could raise up the knuckle from underneath the lower control arm. With a bit of effort and twisting and pushing I was able to get the end of the half shaft out, replace the hub actuator, and get it all back together. Had to take a break before tackling the passenger side.

    IMG_9819.JPG

    After removing the tie rod I examined the mounting hole at the knuckle to see if I could tell where the metal shavings were coming from. Not super clear, but when I put the tie rod back in, there is a tiny bit of movement. The base of the ball joint on the tie rod has a nice angled mounting surface so I imagine with that snugged up against and in the lower part of the knuckle that there isn't going to be much, if any movement.

    IMG_9823.JPG

    IMG_9824.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2018
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  8. Vancouver Bob

    Vancouver Bob Full Access Members

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    FINALLY got around to finishing up the passenger side. Went a lot easier... this time I immediately disconnected the tie rod and upper control arm from the knuckle.

    IMG_9833.jpg

    Having the freedom to rotate the knuckle around made getting the caliper bracket, hub, and hub actuator off much easier. Got it all back together along with new rotors and brake pads. Started pushing out the old brake fluid but stopped after only flushing the front passenger side. I was a little too eager to take it out for a drive and bed the pads. Brakes feel great! AND no more occasional, yet frequent clicking coming from the front passenger side. I'm guessing the hub actuator must have been the culprit. Either way, the noise is gone, she drives smoother (no rotor pulsation) so I'm a happy camper! Just in time for a road trip up to Seattle for a wedding on Saturday, and then a three day camping trip at the beach (Ft. Stevens) on Sunday. Woo Hoo! Looking forward to taking the week off!
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2018
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  9. scoot0073

    scoot0073 Full Access Members

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    After reading this I wonder the clicking sound I here only when I turn is my CV axles..
    I looked at them all over about 2 months ago when I replaced my upper control arms and look good boots in good condition..

    And now about 2 weeks ago I've developed a clunk sound every time I come to a complete stop. Which could be a failing U Joint.

    And my transfer case is slammed full of tranny fluid so this Friday I'm gonna go buy the input shaft seal on the Transfer Case to fix that problem..


    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
     
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  10. Jb14

    Jb14 Full Access Members

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    You may also want to check your 4 wheel activators, they are vacuum activated and in some cases, the solenoid or vacuum line can be the issue. The solenoid is attached to the firewall on the passenger side and on earlier versions, the solenoid did not have a cover and water could corrode, ford later puts a cover on to lessen issue. If the solenoid or vacuum is not working correctly that could partially keep the 4 wheel activator engaged where the teeth on the activators will tough a bit.
     

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