2003 Expedition Face Lift Begins

[scoot0073]

You may also want to check your 4 wheel activators, they are vacuum activated and in some cases, the solenoid or vacuum line can be the issue. The solenoid is attached to the firewall on the passenger side and on earlier versions, the solenoid did not have a cover and water could corrode, ford later puts a cover on to lessen issue. If the solenoid or vacuum is not working correctly that could partially keep the 4 wheel activator engaged where the teeth on the activators will tough a bit.

My 4x4 works great.
Which issue am I having that I need to check the solenoid or vacuum lines ??
Sorry if I am misunderstanding your reply.
Thx

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[Jb14]

You would want to check both. The vacuum line attaches to the back of the actuator then feeds to the solenoid.

 

[Vancouver Bob]

After reading this I wonder the clicking sound I here only when I turn is my CV axles..
I looked at them all over about 2 months ago when I replaced my upper control arms and look good boots in good condition..

And now about 2 weeks ago I've developed a clunk sound every time I come to a complete stop. Which could be a failing U Joint.

And my transfer case is slammed full of tranny fluid so this Friday I'm gonna go buy the input shaft seal on the Transfer Case to fix that problem..


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Clanks and clunks can be tough to chase down. I had one for the longest time every time I pulled into and down my driveway. Eventually I could make it happen by turning sharply while driving slow. Took her in for a wheel alignment at one point and the guy said he heard a clunk as he was pulling it out of the bay but didn't have time to troubleshoot it because it was closing time. The following weekend I took it back and asked the same guy if he could figure out the clunk. He said one of the control arm bolts was slightly loose... tightened it, clunk was gone. Best part was "No charge"!

I just came back from a camping trip at the beach and while driving on the rutted sand that little clicking sound came back, not as frequent though. I can feel it in the steering wheel when it happens.

I'm also getting a light bounce from the rear when driving 40 mph so I'll have the rear tires checked.

Also have a strange vibration that comes and goes at around 60-70mph. It's usually there but at times it's completely gone. I go over a bump or something and it seems like it comes back. Wondering if it's a U-joint.

 

[Gruz7]

So I see on this thread some of you guys had trouble with the IWE solenoids at the spindles. The IWE will cause snapping/popping/vibrations when it’s failed. It is VERY common for them to fail.
The fix I’ve found for it was by using the F150 forum and talking with a member on there about RCV. They’re a company that makes some of the strongest drivetrain components in the world.
I ordered these “eliminators” for my truck and what they do is delete the IWEs on both sides of the front end of the truck. By deleting them there is no more part there left to fail and the CV axles are constantly spinning. (This does not mean you are in 4wd). Other vehicles on the market today like Ram and Toyota and Jeep, have the front axles/shafts constantly spinning although not locked in 4wd.
By installing the eliminators you are effectively making the 4wd system more efficient. When you put the truck in 4HI/4LO it will automatically Lock the front hubs without having to apply/remove vacuum.
They are pretty pricey but well worth it in my opinion. Deletes one of the worst parts on these trucks which is the IWE system.

I know it says for an F150 but they have the same axles so they work for our truck as well. At least on mine they did.

Food for thought!



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[scoot0073]

Clanks and clunks can be tough to chase down. I had one for the longest time every time I pulled into and down my driveway. Eventually I could make it happen by turning sharply while driving slow. Took her in for a wheel alignment at one point and the guy said he heard a clunk as he was pulling it out of the bay but didn't have time to troubleshoot it because it was closing time. The following weekend I took it back and asked the same guy if he could figure out the clunk. He said one of the control arm bolts was slightly loose... tightened it, clunk was gone. Best part was "No charge"!

I just came back from a camping trip at the beach and while driving on the rutted sand that little clicking sound came back, not as frequent though. I can feel it in the steering wheel when it happens

I'm also getting a light bounce from the rear when driving 40 mph so I'll have the rear tires checked.

Also have a strange vibration that comes and goes at around 60-70mph. It's usually there but at times it's completely gone. I go over a bump or something and it seems like it comes back. Wondering if it's a U-joint.

U might be on to something bc the clunking sound didn't start until like a month after I replaced both front upper control arms.
I'll check that. Thx

I get a bounce mostly in the mornings when it's sat over night but it seems to go away when the tires warm up..

Mine always viberates above 50 probably my tires need balancing
And my steering wheel will rock left to right when doing 50 + I figured it's probably uneven wear on the tires ..

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[Vancouver Bob]

So I see on this thread some of you guys had trouble with the IWE solenoids at the spindles. The IWE will cause snapping/popping/vibrations when it’s failed. It is VERY common for them to fail.
The fix I’ve found for it was by using the F150 forum and talking with a member on there about RCV. They’re a company that makes some of the strongest drivetrain components in the world.
I ordered these “eliminators” for my truck and what they do is delete the IWEs on both sides of the front end of the truck. By deleting them there is no more part there left to fail and the CV axles are constantly spinning. (This does not mean you are in 4wd). Other vehicles on the market today like Ram and Toyota and Jeep, have the front axles/shafts constantly spinning although not locked in 4wd.
By installing the eliminators you are effectively making the 4wd system more efficient. When you put the truck in 4HI/4LO it will automatically Lock the front hubs without having to apply/remove vacuum.
They are pretty pricey but well worth it in my opinion. Deletes one of the worst parts on these trucks which is the IWE system.

I know it says for an F150 but they have the same axles so they work for our truck as well. At least on mine they did.

Food for thought!

Thanks, Gruz! Great find!

 

[Vancouver Bob]

Had the tires rotated and rebalanced the other day. They ride much better, way less shake. But interesting thing is that the guy said they were still at "zero" from previous balance. As if to say he didn't have to adjust weights. Could I have just been low on air or something? The shake I had was weird in that there were times when it was completely gone... which I would think would indicate it isn't tires. But it's pretty much gone now. Well see how long it stays gone.

Really happy with the new rotor/pad combo. Gong to change out the rear "yellow stuff" pads to "orange stuff" like I have in the front when I get a chance.

 

[Gruz7]

Had the tires rotated and rebalanced the other day. They ride much better, way less shake. But interesting thing is that the guy said they were still at "zero" from previous balance. As if to say he didn't have to adjust weights. Could I have just been low on air or something? The shake I had was weird in that there were times when it was completely gone... which I would think would indicate it isn't tires. But it's pretty much gone now. Well see how long it stays gone.

Really happy with the new rotor/pad combo. Gong to change out the rear "yellow stuff" pads to "orange stuff" like I have in the front when I get a chance.

Funny you are posting this as I have the same exact thing. A shake that comes and goes. I thought it was the tires but I have 12oz of counteract beads in each tire and they are sometimes perfect with no shaking but sometimes the shake is wild around 40-50mph leading me to think it wasn’t my tires and must be something else I’m unaware of as everything is tight and relatively new. Was just doing it today (shaking) and then tonight, nothing.


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[Vancouver Bob]

Funny you are posting this as I have the same exact thing. A shake that comes and goes. I thought it was the tires but I have 12oz of counteract beads in each tire and they are sometimes perfect with no shaking but sometimes the shake is wild around 40-50mph leading me to think it wasn’t my tires and must be something else I’m unaware of as everything is tight and relatively new. Was just doing it today (shaking) and then tonight, nothing.


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Yea, I don't get it. Will say it's been relatively smooth ever since the rebalance/rotation, although the guy claimed he didn't need to adjust anything. I do know that with these tires, when I hit a pot hole or something, there's a pretty hard hit... so makes me wonder if I'm throwing weights. But that wouldn't explain the coming and going. Back when I was having my bumper welded up the shake was pretty bad, almost violent. A rebalance cured that for a while. I wonder if it's just the larger, heavier tires. Springs and shocks aren't setup for the extra weight so there's a bit of a bounce or resonate frequency thing going on. There may be temperature dependency... when colder things stiffen up a bit. A lot of people mention flat spots on the tire after sitting a while. I can see that. Then it goes away over time. If you ever figure it out, let me know and I'll do the same.

 

[Gruz7]

Yea, I don't get it. Will say it's been relatively smooth ever since the rebalance/rotation, although the guy claimed he didn't need to adjust anything. I do know that with these tires, when I hit a pot hole or something, there's a pretty hard hit... so makes me wonder if I'm throwing weights. But that wouldn't explain the coming and going. Back when I was having my bumper welded up the shake was pretty bad, almost violent. A rebalance cured that for a while. I wonder if it's just the larger, heavier tires. Springs and shocks aren't setup for the extra weight so there's a bit of a bounce or resonate frequency thing going on. There may be temperature dependency... when colder things stiffen up a bit. A lot of people mention flat spots on the tire after sitting a while. I can see that. Then it goes away over time. If you ever figure it out, let me know and I'll do the same.

Yeah I will for sure, going to leave the tires how they are on my truck, and I completely redo the front end with the F150 lift I’ll see if I still have the shakes. If I do then I’ll blame the tires.


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