2003 Expy Transponder key went bad, after a series of things...

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RoadRunner42

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TLDR - Shop killed my physical key with transponder, 9 mo old battery and starter (that was probably failing anyway) that were all working prior. How? The shop said they left the key in it overnight, on ON. 2003 Expy, 280k miles. I never replaced the starter, but purchased at 120k.

A few days ago my truck was a little hard to start. I'm at 280k, and I've never had the starter replaced, so I figured I was due. I did check the normal things, and I did find the battery terminals loose, but after tightening, it was still a slow start. I don't have a mechanic right now. I've been doing my own repairs and oil changes since my regular guy got out of the business and now does Classic Cars only.

I got some recommendations from around town for a shop, who has 230 5-star reviews, and 2 older one-star reviews. So I took the truck into these yahoos. The diagnostic fee should have been the first sign. I dropped off the truck and waited for the determination. I couldn’t make it there by closing because I had to go to my second job. So, they pulled it in their shop overnight. They said they would send the estimate over, and that I could go over it WITH MY HUSBAND that evening. Mind you, my husband didn’t talk to them, they didn’t see him, I made no mention of him, he’s never worked on my truck, and I pay for all my service, myself. He picked me up from the shop, and that was it. I don’t need his approval to spend MY money on MY service.

The quote came in at $760+, charging $400 for just the starter. That’s $300+ too high. It’s a $150 part. I called them in the am to see if there was a typo. They said no typo. But they do have lifetime replacements!! So, I declined service.

I went by to pick up my truck, and when I got there, they were “charging it up.” They said the battery was dead, because someone left the key in it, ON, overnight. I don’t know how that happens. They went back and forth, then came back and said the starter finally failed. It won’t start. They said an oil leak leaked oil on it and killed it. Maybe…I am leaking oil, but not enough to deal with right now.

So I go across the street, to a place I used to go to over 10 years ago, get the number of their tow company, and get it towed literally 500 yards. I Get it in there, and they said the starter is bad, no diagnostic fee, and it will be $400 to fix, plus the tow. They pushed it in to work on it, and they find the 9 month old battery is dead or defective. It needs to be replaced. THEN they said there is some security error about my key. It won't start the truck. They can get one made, for about $100, but not today. It's now 6pm on Friday, I'm grounded for the weekend, and rather ticked off, at shop #1, mostly.

Here is the question - What would make my key go bad in this situation? It's been working fine. My Fob is fine. My PATS is fine. Did the other shop do something? What causes a key to go bad? Or the battery in this circumstance?
 
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whtbronco

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I was gonna suggest a failure of the dang PATS, but apparently not. Do you have a 2nd key to verify it's the key? A strong magnet might be able to cause the chip to fail. I'm certainly interested to hear what others say on that.
 

DieselMonk

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Hm… the immobilzer kicked in? I wonder if you can get the exact code? There is a Immobilzer module, there is a transponder antenna around the ignition lock and finally there is a little transponder hidden in the key. If that lil transponder in the key fell out, the key won’t work. Try your spare key and see if it starts the vehicle. Also check the fuse.
 

whtbronco

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Wait, it just occurred to me you said the battery was dead or defective. These modern vehicles with PATS are very sensitive to voltage and a shorted battery. Make sure the battery is good before going any further. At 9v or lower mine won't even hit the starter relay. If your battery has failed at 9 months you can probably get it replaced for free.
 
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RoadRunner42

RoadRunner42

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Hm… the immobilzer kicked in? I wonder if you can get the exact code? There is a Immobilzer module, there is a transponder antenna around the ignition lock and finally there is a little transponder hidden in the key. If that lil transponder in the key fell out, the key won’t work. Try your spare key and see if it starts the vehicle. Also check the fuse.
They didn't give me a code, only told me that it had a security alert. My key doesn't have the little square slot like the gen 1's keys do. It's solid at the top, so nothing can fall out, to my knowledge. I don't have a spare. I'm having one made tomorrow. It worked before I took it to shop #1, and shop #2 told me it will not start the vehicle. They did check the fuse, and I asked if the PATS was blinking, but they couldn't tell me. I said PATS and they didn't know what I meant, so that worried me a bit. This place is pretty solid though, and works on lots of Fords so they should know...maybe it was just the phone person. However, I have zero idea what shop #1 could have done to kill my key!
 
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RoadRunner42

RoadRunner42

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Yes, the battery was said to be dead. I'll get a warranty replacement on it tomorrow. The shop used one of their batteries to get it to where they could start it, but then there is the newly discovered key issue. The key was fine before shop #1 touched it. And so was the battery, I tested it myself the day before, and I tested the cranking amps to make sure it wasn't my battery having an issue starting - trying to isolate the starter. If the battery was low or the key was left in it ON, overnight, running the battery down could that impact the functionality of the key? Like kill it?
 

DieselMonk

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I have to see yet a key fail one these older cars because the battery went dead. I am rather concerned they tried to charge the flat battery and had the cables reversed and blowing something up that way.
A 9 month old battery shouldn’t be replaced only because it was ran all the way down. It should recharge just fine.
IMO the dead battery should not have forked your passive IMMO, nor the key. I am not sure why you need a new key either. The lock is working, the rest (PATS) is programming, or that little pin isn’t there in the key (then you need a new one and program it. I’ve done so many times. It’s either the programming, a module failure, or wiring / connectors. Would be nice having the codes to see what it is complaining about.
 
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RoadRunner42

RoadRunner42

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I got the truck back, and it's working just fine now. I could not get the exact security error. They didn't write it down. I went to Advanced Auto, they tested my 9 month old battery. They said it was no good. Like someone crossed the cables. That was from shop #1.

So, apparently, on an older ford, when you leave the keys in the ignition, on ON, it drains the battery, then it thinks it's being stolen, and disables the transponder. Hope you have 2 keys so it can be reprogrammed easily and cheaply. I did not, and I never leave the keys in the ignition like some idiot. I paid $275 for a non branded crap key, and the programming - which is too high IMO - I'm going to call the dealer and check on that, but I would have had to have a tow there, so it doesn't matter. Hostage prices are what they are.

Total was $782 with the cost of the tow, the starter, the new key and the programming.

I'm going to try to write an unemotional letter to shop #1 with a demand for payment, because they damaged my junk, and that is their fault. $105 tow for 500 yards, and $275 in keys and programming, and the cost of the battery and I got most of it comped ($230 retail and I paid $148) by Advanced Auto because they know these people and they felt bad for me. Regardless, I expect nothing, but I'm prepared to take it to small claims. I can get a statement from Advanced auto and Shop #2. I won't leave them a terrible review yet, but I will in time. I won't if they pay me back, but that would be a public disservice IMO.
 
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