2004 5.4 misfire after intake swap.

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Crazedhick3

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I have a 2004 EB. I had the dreaded antifreeze leak and I had to install the Dorman. Got everything back together and I added new motorcraft spark plugs and coil packs. Started the car and it ran like a dream for a few minutes. Took it for a drive and after it reached temp it jolted and began running like crap. Not even a mile down the road. Misfire on #1 is the code I am getting. I checked that and all the plugs on that side to make sure I didn’t have one blow out. I swapped coil packs on 1&2 but still have a misfire on 1. What’s my next move? Could it be an injector? How can I test the harness plug that connects to the coil packs?
 
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Crazedhick3

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Update: At first I was getting a chuga chuga steam engine sound under the hood but I held the engine at about 3k rpm and something changed and that went away. Still runs very rough and goes into what I suspect is a limp mode after a few minutes of driving. I used an old plug and manually verified that the coil is firing. I checked the injector ohm reading and compared to others. All ok at 14 ohms. I just pulled the plug again thinking maybe some carbon fell off and is under a valve seat. I sprayed some carb cleaner down there bumped the engine and let the cleaner sit. I blew it out and dried out the cylinder. I bumped the engine and it seems to have compression. I don’t have a tester. Reinstalled everything and nothing has changed. I am stumped. The car is not worth a mechanics visit. I wont put that much money into it but I would like to try and figure it out.
 

whtbronco

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All I can think of is either the intake isn't sealing correctly or, this is a long shot, is the lower o-ring on the #1 injector good? My injector o-rings were pretty hard when I replaced them earlier this year.
 

Dustin Gebhardt

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The connections for my COPs and injectors were all dry rotted on my '07. The rubber rings inside the connectors were cracking, causing a bad connection with the COP or injector. I bought new pigtails for each and soldered the new connectors to the old harness. My misfires went away. If you moved the COP, spark plug, and injector from cyl #1, yet the misfire remains on cyl 1, then it's either compression (bad rings, valves, head, or block), bad intake manifold (and/or gasket), or wiring/connector.
 

whtbronco

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If you find connectors broken or faulty as Dustin Gebhardt suggested you can replace the connector without cutting and soldering. I did the cut, solder and heat shrink a couple times, then found tools that allow you to just pop the wires out of the connector and replace it. So much easier and less time consuming. Some can even be released with a simple t-pin or jewelers screwdriver. The silicone seal inside them can usually be removed and replaced independently. I only replace connectors if I break the retainer off. I grab spares at the salvage yard each time I go.

Something like this set:
 
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Crazedhick3

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Not much of an update but I’m pretty sure the coil pack is good. I pulled it and put in a spare plug and watched it spark when I restarted the engine. I also swapped it with another. Still a Cylinder 1 misfire. I replaced the injector and the pigtail so the o ring is new and there are no leaks. I’m waiting to pull the intake again and see if maybe the seal between the water x pipe and the cylinder is not sealing. Besides maybe having a bent valve that’s the only thing I can think of. Don’t know how I could have bent a valve because it ran perfect after the intake replacement for 30 mins or so.
 
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Crazedhick3

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I pulled the car into the garage this morning. First thing I noticed was the coolant level was low. ☹️. So I’m thinking now since I don’t see any antifreeze under the hood, I’m betting either the gasket between the water and the intake runner of No 1 cylinder is leaking by, which would be unlikely since I should see antifreeze somewhere, or I got a cracked head and moisture is getting into that combustion chamber and causing this issue. Originally my son had run the car very hot which had lead me to finding the original issue. Stay tuned. What’s your thoughts?
 

AWAR

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Please check the compression, at least the misfire and a couple good ones.
 

drankinatty

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I pulled the car into the garage this morning. First thing I noticed was the coolant level was low. ☹️. So I’m thinking now since I don’t see any antifreeze under the hood, I’m betting either the gasket between the water and the intake runner of No 1 cylinder is leaking ... What’s your thoughts?

That sounds the most logical at this point. Antifreeze disappearing without a puddle under the car isn't a good thing. My '05 5.4 has always had drips from the exhaust pipe that caused me concern, but in years it has never lost any coolant - so I just chocked it up to condensation.

You don't say, but which Dorman intake does your motor take? 615268 or 615278 or something else?

You say it ran fine for the first mile or so and then started the chuga-chuga or entered a limp mode. That suggests something moved or changed upsetting the ability to fire all cylinders. The "misfire on cylinder one", obviously points to cylinder one, but generally loss of one cylinder doesn't make the car undriveable. Sure you will be down 1/8 of the power and have a rougher idle, but absent some commanded limp mode, the car should still run and drive.

When you pulled the No. 1 plug, if it wasn't wet and when you turned the engine over with the plug out, there wasn't visible moisture being expelled - that's good. You risk hydraulic-lock if you have too much water leaking into a cylinder (and it doesn't take much). Water is incompressible, and any significant leakage into a cylinder will, on the compression stroke, risk bending a rod.

Do you have any measure of the amount of coolant that was lost (or that you are losing)? When you drained the coolant to do the manifold swap, it's not uncommon to fill the reservoir to the indicated level, start and have it run up to temp, only to find the next morning you need to add another half-quart or so as all air in the system is displaced and fluid is pulled from the reservoir on the fender. I know I had to do that after draining the radiator to remove the upper radiator and heater hose connections to do timing chains and cam phasers.

The other possibility is the gasket on the intake runner failed and you are drawing air directly into the cylinder. (that's why I asked which manifold you have). Looking at the Dorman models, the 615278 seems to have individual gaskets around each runner and the water ports, while the 615268 seems to have one gasket for each bank that would be fitted into a groove on the manifold (which at least appears to have more possibility of shifting on install).

You sound like you are taking all the steps necessary to isolate what is going on. There is no silver bullet. The only other thing you might want to do if you have a code reader that supports "live data" is to hook the analyzer up and look at the what the O2 sensors are reading. If you are leaking air on one bank, you would expect to see that bank reading significantly different from the other.

These are all just spitballed ideas that came to mind reading the post, sorry I've got nothing specific for you. Keep us posted on the progress.
 
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