2004 Expedition Build Log w/ Ramblings & Write-Ups

[gnar_gnar_binx]

Hey all! Not exactly sure what my ambitions are with this post; maybe just looking to share information and seek feedback on my fool's quest to maintain and modify this platform. I've learned a lot so far and I'm excited to learn more.

I've been lurking as a non-member on these forums since I acquired my Expedition in 2018 (at the expense of my beloved Explorer Sport/5-speed MT). I've had a few years to really ponder a build for these vehicles with a background in fabrication and engineering; it is about time I start posting. While it has remained bone-stock for several years, I have missed having a manual transmission every single time I have sat behind the wheel. After realizing how much the platform overlaps with the F-150, becoming disappointed in Ford's cowardice on releasing the SVT Thunder, and witnessing the ever-increasing price of vehicles my ambitions have developed into wanting to turn my 150k-mile 2004 Expedition into a lifelong behemoth. I have seen these SUVs go for around $4500-6000 in California, making them a great contender for a project vehicle and deserving of a write-up. I've consulted a family-friend/mechanic for my next immediate steps and tune-up. Hopefully this thread can save somebody a headache in the future, I plan on doing a lot to this SUV. With that being said, lets dive into the build log; I will try to include links to the components I end up using.

LOTS of lists incoming

Known Factors

• Vehicle Trim: 2004 Ford Expedition - Eddie Bauer - 5.4L 2V Triton V8 - RWD - No Air Ride Suspension - H6 Axle Code
• No CELs
• 150k+ Miles
• 2003-2004 Expeditions received the 2V version of the 5.4L V8 motor
• 2004-2008 F-150 Front Suspension should be extremely similar/interchangeable
• F-150 & 3rd Gen Expedition Front Clips should interchange w/ minor fab work
• 1st Gen Raptor Rear Axle is 0.5" narrower than stock
• 4.6L, 5.4L, & 6.8L Modular Motors share the same bellhousing pattern
• IRS/IFS... There are currently NO manufactured lift options in this application beyond spacer lifts and Rancho Shocks

Goals

• Make it to 300k+ miles
• Bulletproof drivetrain & suspension
• 450hp
• Pre-Runner Capable
• Make exterior changes look Ford engineered

Installed Mods

• MaxSpeedingRods (Ebay Special) 3.5" Front / 2.5" Rear Strut-Spacer Lift
  • https://www.ebay.com/itm/275946636209
• Treadwright 275/65R20 All-Terrain Tires (20" wheels came with the vehicle when I got it)
  • https://www.treadwright.com/collections/filter/products/at-axiom-275-65r20-10-ply-remold-usa
• Hypertech 42500 - 91 Octane Tune
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WF5JPS?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1
• Flowmaster FlowFX 71229 Muffler (Offset 3" In/Out)
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C9T19YN?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1
• K&N 57-2538 Cold Air Intake
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CODKKG?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1
• Yellow LED Fog Light Bulbs
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D25LHDTS?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2
• LED Headlight Bulbs
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D3HRQDG1?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1
• LED Interior LED Bulbs Upgrade
  • Been too long since I've done this. Just a matter of finding the equivalent bulbs in LEDs.
• Behind-Grille 4" LED Pod Lights
  • $20 - Found the pair at a swap meet
• LED Rock Lights
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IP8W254?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1
  • May require extension wires for better mounting locations
• First-Coat Sandstone Bedliner Roof Paint
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNVBL7M?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title_0_0

Current Issues/Funky Noises

• Driver-side rattle upon acceleration (suspected to be catalytic converter heatshield)
• Ticking from engine at idle (suspected to be exhaust leak at manifold)
• Front tire clipping bumper at full lock
• No AC, heat functional (unknown culprit)
• Roof Rust ("Repaired" with JB Weld and bedliner paint)
• Rock Lights and Pod Lights are installed with separate harnesses

Planned Mods & Maintenance

• JBA 1679SJS Short-Tube Headers
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040Z5GUU?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1
• BBK 1703 75MM Throttle Body
  • https://bbkperformance.com/products...15HRzarFTPLf6jzKI0iK8vR4cK6ofVCmriV2a0RR9PkUJ
  • Found used on Ebay. Cleaned up nice!
• PraDents (Amazon Special) 2-4” Upper Control Arms
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DP29FCX2?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1
• MSD Ford Blaster Coil Packs
  • https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-82428
• NGK Spark Plugs
  • https://www.summitracing.com/parts/NGK-7164
• Finish 2-Tone Bedliner Paint Exterior
  • Same brand as used on the roof. Still debating colors, torn between stock-ish colors or something new (blue).
• 6-Relay Switch Box for consolidating Pod Lights, Rock Lights, & future electrical work
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0876VFWF6?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_4
• Port Matching for Throttle Body & Headers
  
  
• Inspect Catalytic Converters

With the currently planned Mods & Maintenance, I should solve any strange noises from the engine bay. The new upper control arms should at least help to alleviate the additional strain from the lift on the front suspension. The windows roll down fine so AC work can sit on the backburner. The next steps are to focus on reliability down the line and pushing more real power. Given my current list of goals with this vehicle, it is important to note some of the common points of failure on these SUVs as they reach higher mileage.

High-Mileage Hiccups

• Spark Plugs Ejecting
  • Honestly, this issue seems blown out of proportion by the notoriety of the 5.4 3V motors w/ broken plugs. Use OEM parts & torque to spec; you'll probably be okay. I chose NGK plugs, Motorcraft is probably just fine
• Timing Chain
  • Ford has forsaken us with plastic timing chain guides in these motors. Because plastic and oil are mortal enemies, these guides are known to crumble and lead to noise/destructive failure. My understanding from the Ford care guide for these vehicles is to start considering servicing the timing chain around 160k or if needed, sooner. I would prefer to service the entire valvetrain/heads when doing this maintenance
• Transmission
  • While less of a concern for stock commuters, I know several people who have had to replace their transmission on these vehicles. My current transmission is making squeals on hard acceleration which I'm rationalizing as an excuse to manual swap.
• Intake Manifold
  • The OEM plastic manifold on these motors gets the job done, but aluminum manifolds exist and eliminate a potential point of failure for a 21-year-old motor

Knowing these weak spots exist makes me want to fix them before they can become problematic. My next posts will include the next stages I have in mind and some reflections on the build so far. If I can find any pictures of the SUV to use for before/after I will be sure to include those too!

If you made it this far, thank you! Please let me know if I'm on the right path and if there is anything I am overlooking so far.

 

[whtbronco]

I have no info on the MSD Blaster coils, well not the COPS at least. I will say that it's pretty much unanimous from everyone I know that you are far more likely to have issues with aftermarket COPS on these engines. OEM COPS are the way to go if needed. The factory ones often last a long time. At 305k miles all of mine are original.

I plan to do a timing job on mine next month for the first time so with your mileage you may be addressing it early.

There is another member here that did a manual transmission swap. Quite an involved process, but it sure would be nice to have a manual again.

I agree on the intake manifold. The aluminum ones are tough to find and as I recall do take some minor mods to fit. I'd like to get one to hang on to for when I need a replacement.

 

[gnar_gnar_binx]

@whtbronco Thank you for your insight and good luck with the timing maintenance! 305k miles is impressive.
The coil packs were sort of a preemptive effort to prepare the engine for a cam swap/potential boost in the future. Figured I'd do the timing with the cam or heads eventually. My understanding is that the MSD coils could potentially allow for a longer spark duration, but I can't produce a source on this claim. Hoping it helps improve the efficiency a little bit since I am seeing 8-10MPGs on mixed freeway/street driving both before and after installing the tune/intake; assuming the lift and phat tires are why my milage sucks. I haven't seen much information about these COPS in the wild, let alone in this niche, so it should be a fun experiment. If my stock coils prove to be alright, I will probably sell them. If I install them, I'll be sure to post updates.

The transmission swap is my #1 priority to be honest; I've been scavenging the internet for information since I got the Expedition lol. I have seen mixed opinions about the M5R2 transmission behind the 5.4L engine, but it'd be a much cheaper swap. I see mentions of it behind VERY built Thunderbirds with the 4.6L, but the factory 5.4L is already producing the torque rating of the M5R2. A ZF5 swap from a Super Duty seems like the best route to go. A bit pricier but much beefier; lots of documentation on this and other forums the swap. I like the fact that 1st gear is low enough to function as a granny gear since there is no 4wd. I'm currently working on a parts list for this and crying at prices but hellbent on making it happen. Figured I should wait on regearing my rear diff until this swap is done.

I have seen a lot of aluminum intake manifolds on Ebay recently. The HPS Hardball is commanding an insane a price but the Ford Performance/OEM models for PI heads seemed to be pretty available. I spoke to a seller about what might be different, and they stated that the "heater core might be clocked differently". Strong option but not a super pressing matter. Definitely like the idea of keeping one as a backup. I have dabbled with the idea of re-enrolling in a local community college to build one in the metal casting program, but it seems like a pretty far-fetched idea. I have previously worked on building a supercharger manifold for my Explorer in the welding program and know the professor would approve my project; it is doable...

Stay tuned for my updates/ideas on future mods because I think they can explain my vision a little better!

 

[whtbronco]

The M5R2 appears to be related to the M5OD which is a Mazda made/designed transmission. My '94 4.0L Ranger had an M5OD and there is no way I even consider putting that it in a full size truck V8 powered truck. That trans could not handle my stock 4.0L, 35" tires. I bought the truck new(special ordered) and in the ~18 months I owned it I broke the 1st/2nd shift fork twice and the output shaft. Even the stock clutch was inadequate, if you nailed the throttle in 1st or 2nd gear the clutch slipped. I put in a Centerforce II clutch to fix that. Of the trans you're looking at I think the ZF is the way to go. Maybe take a look at the NV4500 as well if you haven't. To me that seems like a truly awesome manual for trucks, but it may be cost prohibitive.

It'll be interesting to watch this process you have planned.

 

[gnar_gnar_binx]

@whtbronco My Explorer had the M5OD too! Drove it without a working second gear for many moons after fabbing a lift and having the same specs you mentioned; eventually found a junkyard transmission with the same milage to swap in. It was a easy transmission to drive with but there is no way I'd trust it behind a V8 either. I was considering the ZF5 and a "Stage2" clutch for the initial swap. The NV4500 is so expensive I haven't even really considered it since I'm on more of a college project budget at the moment. Keeping all of the systems as all Ford parts seems like a good way to keep it simple to diagnose/repair in the future in my head.

 

[gnar_gnar_binx]

Sorry I've been lagging on finding pictures of the project so far. I have been slowly building up lists for the next stages. I have an opportunity for a free rear axle and set of 18" bead locks from a 2010 Raptor; if this isn't a sign to swap rear axles, I don't know what else is.
With that being said, it seems like a project to discuss at a later date. Here's the rest of my planned changes for the next year or two. It doesn't need to win any races; I'd just like to shave a few seconds off of the 13 second 0-60.

Planned Stage 2 Mods

• 250W Solar Panel
  • Already purchased at a swap-meet, 40V output
  • Roof-top mounting
• Aux Battery
  • 60V 30Ah LiPo batteries
  • Repurposed from EV use, purchased at a swap-meet
  • Planning to either reconfigure these batteries into modular 12V packs, or purchase AGM cells
• 12V 1200W Inverter
  • Already on-hand; gift from my dad
• ZF5 Manual Swap
  • Strong transmissions
  • 5-speed. Less gears, less problems.
  • Cheaper than the ZF6
  • Does not require body lift for clearance like the ZF6
• Muffler-Back 2.5” Dual Exit Exhaust
  • Not essential, looks cool af. Should’ve been duals from the factory.
• Tow Mirror Swap
  • Not essential, but I like the look and potential for smaller blind-spots
• Front-Clip Swap (McNeil 04-14 to 17 Raptor Off Road One-Piece Conversion)
  • Seems to be pretty much mandatory for SB100 registration goals
• SB100 Registration (California SMOG woes)????
  • I intend to add boost to this engine at some point in the vehicle's life
  • Not sure how a Lightning Swap or Pro Charger install would work under regular registration; California SMOG regulations require same-year or newer parts with the required parts stopping production/certification in 2003
  • SB100 *could* open the door for a rear mount turbo?
• Trick Flow TFS-K51802001 OR COMP Cams 102500 Xtreme Energy 226/230 cams
  • Not much info on either option online
  • Don't think my engine will benefit from a NA build more than forced induction but the RPM range seems suitable for a future, low-boost build to hit my target HP without needing a custom tune in the interim
  • Pretty sure these aren't CARB certified, but I think Trick Flow Heads do have certification

ZF5 Manual Parts Swap Parts List Forecast

*****Please note I have not purchased any components for this swap yet*****
Would love to know what else I might be missing!

• ZF5 Transmission
  • Ideally from an F-250 Super Duty, seem to be pretty commonly found in 350-550 trucks/vans with the 6.8L V10
  • Est. cost $1600 on eBay. Est. $3500 for a rebuilt unit post core-charge
  • Won’t be able to afford this until next year most likely
• Flywheel & Clutch Kit
  • STAGE 2 CLUTCH & FLYWHEEL KIT FITS 1999-2010 FORD F-150 F-250 F-350 5.4L TRITON | eBay
  • Supposedly there is a difference between the 6.8L and 5.4L Flywheels?
  • Call it $300
• Clutch Pedal Assembly
  • F3TZ2455A Brake And Clutch Pedal Assembly For 1992-97 Ford Bronco F150/F250/F350 | eBay
  • Should be more or less a bolt-on install, might require match drilling
  • F-250 clutch/pedal seems to be too long to fit based on other threads online
  • Est. $50
• Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder
  • Labwork Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder Assembly For Ford F-150 F-250 CC649014 | eBay
  • Est. $90
• Est Total Parts Cost: $2500-$4500
• Assuming drive shaft will need to be modified
• The Hypertech Tuner mentioned previously has the option to select between Manual and Automatic transmission; hoping this will eliminate the need for ECU modification

 

[Broncoholic]

Installed Mods

• Hypertech 42500 - 91 Octane Tune
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WF5JPS?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1
• Flowmaster FlowFX 71229 Muffler (Offset 3" In/Out)
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C9T19YN?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

Planned Mods & Maintenance

• PraDents (Amazon Special) 2-4” Upper Control Arms
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DP29FCX2?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1
• MSD Ford Blaster Coil Packs
  • https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-82428
• NGK Spark Plugs
  • https://www.summitracing.com/parts/NGK-7164

High-Mileage Hiccups

• Intake Manifold
  • The OEM plastic manifold on these motors gets the job done, but aluminum manifolds exist and eliminate a potential point of failure for a 21-year-old motor

I have the same Hypertech 42500. My primary reason for purchasing was to change the speedo for oversized tires, but I also run the 91 octane tune. I can't notice any difference.

I'm running the FlowFX 72198 dual in single out. It sounds great and doesn't drone in the cab.

I'm very interested in knowing if those control arms fit with the lift. I'm tired of replacing the Moogs under warranty. No good options available.

It's already been stated - Motorcraft coils are the most reliable way to go. Same for the spark plugs. That's all I use now.

If you source an alum Intake and make it work, good job. If you're forced to get a plastic one, so everything you can to get Motorcraft, not Dorman.

 

[gnar_gnar_binx]

@Broncoholic Thanks for replying!
The Hypertech was great for fixing the speedo after my lift too. Wasn't expecting any miracles from the tune, but I feel like some SCT tuning might be in my future. I have got the SCT X4 as a second-hand unit as well. Unfortunately, it came locked and SCT refuses to service California addresses. Eventually lead me to choose the Hypertech.

Gotta say I'm pretty satisfied with the FlowFX muffler I chose for the current config too!
Did you remove the y-pipe to run your dual-inlet muffler? Not sure if it's a California model specific issue, but I only had 1 pipe running to the factory muffler location.

Fitment on the upper control arms has been confirmed by 2 different mechanics now, but I have yet to install them. I know the F-150 and Expedition knuckles are different, but the upper mounting locations for the control arm should be the same. Will definitely post an update on this once my vehicle can afford the downtime.

Will definitely keep the advice about Motorcraft coils/plugs in mind and eventually pick up a set for if/when I run into problems lol.

The only thing keeping me from the Aluminum intake is California emissions. Since it is only available in older years, I think it could cause me to fail the visual inspection. Fortunately, the OEM intake is still in good shape so I can really take my time with that portion of the modification process.

 

[Broncoholic]

Gotta say I'm pretty satisfied with the FlowFX muffler I chose for the current config too!
Did you remove the y-pipe to run your dual-inlet muffler? Not sure if it's a California model specific issue, but I only had 1 pipe running to the factory muffler location.

Mine had the factory Y. I recall the pipes being crimped down in size and it looked restrictive so I wanted to replace it when replacing the muffler. The 2.5" dual in / 3" single out was perfect as a Y and muffler combined. I bought some 3" straight and mandrel bends to finish it out the back with a Flowmaster tip. This all started because my driver's side secondary cat element had come loose and would rattle in the case when the exhaust got hot and expanded. No emissions in FL, so I cut off both secondary cats and put in straight pipe. O2 sensors are before and after the primary cats, so I don't get a check engine light.

 

[gnar_gnar_binx]

Hey all! Just wanted to say this build log is not quite dead yet; I have not had the time or funds to work on the truck due to family responsibilities. Hoping to make some major progress on it in the coming months, stay tuned! Control arms and paint are taking #1 priority moving forwards.