2004 Navigator Fuel Relay/Pump Voltage Issues Crank No Start

[whtbronco]

Yes I did remove the driveshaft. It's not too bad to remove really. It's much easier to jack up the rear end and have a helper hold the brakes to remove 2 bolts. The put the trans in Neutral, rotate the driveshaft, hold the brakes again and remove the other 2 bolts. 12mm 12 sided bolts. It just slides out of the transfer case or transmission. I pull the bolts out and then use a small crow bar as a punch against the pry area, along with a hammer to tap it off the diff. Put a paint mark on the driveshaft and diff flanges to line them up on reinstall.

Yeah none of it easy per se, but the vent hose is a royal PITA to disconnect. I took the spare tire out and with the tank lowered like 3-4" I was finally able to wrestle it apart. Putting it back was worse. Some of my issue is my hands are in bad shape.

Yes I have replaced the front seal on the rear diff. In fact I replaced it 3 or 4 times, and it always leaked a little again in just a few months. Until I replaced the u-joints with Spicer SPL series, had the driveshaft straightened and re-balanced. No more front seal leak. The same process on the front driveshaft resolved that leak as well. Neither leaked much, just enough to cover some of the diff with oil and dirt. That said just replacing the seal and putting everything back together without a new crush sleeve is not the approved process, but it is commonly done. You will need a way to hold the pinion flange still to remove and reinstall the pinion nut.

I'm not sure off hand what the grease near the fuel filter might have been.

 

[tedallen]

Thanks @whtbronco I actually have the Expy supported on 4 jack stands with all 4 wheels off of the ground, floor jack on one side as an extra safety and a transmission jack under the tank. The odd trail of grease was actually on the fuel filler tube going to where you would fill the tank.

It was very cold here yesterday and snowed last night and was very cold again today and tonight. I don’t know if I will get to work on it again on Thursday afternoon or not.

You mentioned replacing the crush sleeve when replacing the pinion seal on the rear diff. I don’t recall that being mentioned in the service manual. It looks like it would go between the two pinion bearings on the shaft. Is it removable after removing the pinion seal and bearing on the driveshaft end of the shaft without further disassembly of the differential? Did you replace the cover gasket (I think the OEM ones were supposed to be reusable and made of metal and a silicone or rbber material and aftermarket ones are not)? Did you use Motorcraft differential fluid in it?

Did you find a machine or specialty shop to straighten and balance the driveshaft? Where did you purchase the replacement U-joints?

Thanks for all your assistance.

 

[whtbronco]

Hmm, you're right the suggested process for the 9.75 inch axle does not suggest replacing the crush sleeve. That's unusual to me. Anyway, the good news it is too much work any and requires differential disassembly. I have not replaced the the cover gasket on the rear diff, that is a fair amount of work since the cover is the mount as well. I have never even looked into the rear diff cover gasket on the Expedition.

I use Amsoil fluids, 100% synthetic, in everything except for Prestone coolant and brake fluid. For the rear diff I use 75W-140 gear oil and since I have a limited slip diff I also use a tube of Amsoil friction modifier. You should not use anything but synthetic gear oil in it.

I got the u-joints from RockAuto, not cheap, but these are arguably the best u-joints available. The single kit replaces all 4 u-joints and comes with several different sizes of spring clips and I needed them to get the perfect fit.

More Information for DANA SPL1007FK

This tool works pretty well for removal and install of the u-joints. It's certainly better than a large C clamp or hammer which can easily bend the flange.

The local heavy equipment repair shop also does driveshaft straightening and balancing in house. It was $300 for the rear, $200 for the front. I could have done them cheaper with "cheap" aftermarket replacements, but no thanks I'll keep the original parts instead.