2007 ford expedition: intake manifold runner control stuck

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truckguy

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Wife was driving on the highway and the car lost power suddenly. She was fortunate to be able to pull over to the side safely. I got there and when I tried to restart it, it was running rough. Not knowing what the issue was, we had it towed to the shop. They looked at it a few days later and told me that they could drive it just fine. However, they did read a code (sorry I forgot to ask what the code really was) and that code plus their diagnosis showed that the intake manifold runner control got stuck. Their hypothesis was that somehow that threw the engine into limp mode and turned off the throttle is what happened on the highway. I was quoted for about $930 to replace the intake manifold runner control.

I thought it was quite expensive and will try to do it myself as I've done some repairs in the past. I googled but was not able to find exact instructions on how to do this. Maybe you guys can give me some pointers on this. Any help will be much appreciated!
 
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truckguy

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hey guys,

I just started on this job. I've drained the coolant and took off the ducts. Attached here is what I see now. I was looking at youtube videos of people doing similar job on f150 or other models and it looked different from mine. I'm thinking next I'll need to:
  • take out the thing sitting on top of the intake manifold (marked with green)
  • remove the alternator (blue oval) and the bracket (white line)
  • remove the fuel rail
  • then remove the bolts that holds the intake manifold in place (this will not be easy probably)
Screen Shot 2020-12-05 at 3.23.00 PM.pngAnything I'm missing here? What else should I be careful about?View attachment 39165
 
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truckguy

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Progressing some more now. Got a few questions that I hope to get some help on:

1. Unscrewed most of the bolts of the fuel rail and took out 5 ignition coils. Then I wondered if I needed to keep the order of these coils. If I switch one with another, would that be a problem?

2. In order to remove the alternator, I'll have to remove the serpentine belt. Mine is quite warn and cracked. So looking to replace it. Looking at this video:
It is easy to do if you don't have the radiator fan in the way. It should be doable to remove the belt without removing the fan. However, I don't know how hard it is to put on a new belt later without removing the radiator fan.

3. Once I remove the fuel rails, then I can unscrew all the intake manifold bolts. What I'm not sure about is whether there is anything in the back of the manifold like bolts that was there for a pre-2007 model:

Image from iOS (16).jpg
 
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07navi

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You can put the coils on in any sequence.

You can put the belt on without removing anything, you can do it if stranded. I always carry an extra one. Carry a 1/2" breaker bar also.

Get little mirror with a handle and look behind the intake. You will need it elsewhere also.
 
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truckguy

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I'm back to work on this thing again. Finally took out the intake manifold! Took out the old IMRC valve, then went to install the new one. On the part it actually says that "DO NOT ROTATE BY HAND". As you can see from the picture showing both the new and the old, without me manually rotating it, the natural position that the right arm goes to is the one marked "L". So I put that on and then the left arm to the one marked "R". However, this does not look correct to me. I wonder if I should have rotated the arm and put the left arm on "L" and right arm on "R". That would definitely require me to rotate the new part by quite a lot though. Should I rotate it by hand and put left arm on L and right arm on R?
imrc_valve.jpg Screen Shot 2020-12-19 at 12.53.38 PM.png
 
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truckguy

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never mind, my bad. I just switched the arms to match left with L and right with R and everything looks good.
 
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truckguy

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never mind, my bad. I just switched the arms to match left with L and right with R and everything looks good.
 
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