2009 XLT Project Planning

[thunderthot]

Hi all! I’ve recently come to own an ‘09 with a handful of issues, but it was priced right and most problems seemed to be close to my knowledge and skill level. I’m very new to the Expy platform and 5.4’s in general, and have done some research on common issues but realize there are a ton of nuances and knowledge I might not be picking up through individual research and the search function, so I wanted to post a thread to get advice on things to consider, things to improve quality of life or easy replacements while I work on specific issues. I’d like to order as many parts and tools up front as I can so I can change as much at one time as possible. I’m familiar with working on vehicles and have a small tool setup, but just to be thorough assume that I know nothing and have nothing to work on them with. I’m aiming to turn this into an Overlanding rig that is still functional as a daily driver, but have to get it running reliably first.
It’s at 240k miles, and is in decent condition aside from the following: Its main issues are:
•Misfire and rough idle that varies in intensity. The misfire is enough to wobble the vehicle when cruising at light throttle but reduces under load. Only active code is P0365-00, ignition coil F primary control circuit open. I plan to change all plugs and ignition coils. Due to the year I assume it’s brown boot.

•Metal on metal braking, all brake warning lights, TPMS, and Traction Control lights on dash. I plan to start with pads and rotors and go from there.
•Power steering non functioning. There’s no leaks or whining from the pump. The pulley to the pump still spins, but the belt is shredded because of a stuck AC pulley.

•Myriad of stored electrical codes, I’m thinking likely due to an older battery(SEP2020) or anti theft/ old key, although wonder if the camshaft codes can be related to a low oil condition
Codes are:
~P0012-00-A Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Retarded (Bank 1) - Not Current DTC - Warning Lamp On.
~P0022-00-A Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Retarded (Bank 2) - Pending DTC - Warning Lamp On.
~P0150-00-02 Sensor Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 1) - Not Current DTC.
~P0341-00-Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 or single sensor) - Not Current DTC.
~Р0346-00-Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2) - Not Current DTC.
~P0345-00-Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 2) - Pending DTC.)
~P0480-00-Fan 1 Control Circuit - Not Current DTC.
~P0528-00-Fan Speed Sensor Cirouit No Signal - Not Current DTC.
~P0645-00-A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit - -Not Current DTC.
~B1342- Faulty Control Module (ABS)
~B1318-Low Battery Voltage At Module
~B2097-Compass Module Fail
~U0100-Lost Communication With ECM/PCM
~U2013-Compass Module No Response
~B1600-Passive Anti Theft System (PATS) Ignition Key Transponder Signal Not Received
~B1601-Passive Anti Theft System (PATS) Received Incorrect Key Code Transponder
~B2431-Key (Transponder) Programming Fail
~B2872-Tire Pressure Sensor Fault
~B2266- Left Side Blend Door Circuit Fail

•Wire going to radiator fan is ripped, likely because of shredded belt. Fan still spins so unsure if a fix here is necessary.
•Coolant reservoir is grimey, and rust at the top of the radiator fill, but seems to function. Thermostat doesn’t appear to actively stick as temperature guage moves, no apparent issues with overheating and it doesn’t smell like it’s burning coolant. Id like to flush the coolant and maybe change the radiator, but I don’t know if that would break up anything that would clog up the other parts of the system, so I’m uncertain if I should just change any potential problem parts while I have the system opened up anyway.
•No A/C, the pulley isn’t spinning with the belt and I think caused it to shred. There’s frowning behind the dash which I attributed to the blend door.
•Drivers window motor failure, and other motors move slow. This is likely just replacing the motor but the speed of all four makes me pause in case it’s another issue.
•Front of oil pan is rusted along the gasket at the front of the engine. It still holds oil but I will have to change this eventually and I’m wondering what else I should do while I’m up there.
•Rockers are rusted out. I was just planning on cutting out the pitted parts and maybe welding or fitting something to give a little structure and edge. I’d like to put some step sides/ rock sliders on the frame so I’m not too concerned with structural integrity or looks, but include that here in case that’s a misstep.
•Rattling from drivers side wheel well when going over bumps. I’m thinking a loose tie rod point but will narrow it down after I have a chance to shake it down.
I’ll do my best to update this thread as I make fixes to the car, and will include fixes as best as possible. To anyone replying I thank you for the time you’ve taken to read it and any advice is appreciated!

 

[ExplorerTom]

Wow! That’s a lot of issues.

 

[BigOleFordFan]

•Misfire and rough idle that varies in intensity. The misfire is enough to wobble the vehicle when cruising at light throttle but reduces under load. Only active code is P0365-00, ignition coil F primary control circuit open. I plan to change all plugs and ignition coils. Due to the year I assume it’s brown boot.

•Metal on metal braking, all brake warning lights, TPMS, and Traction Control lights on dash. I plan to start with pads and rotors and go from there.
•Power steering non functioning. There’s no leaks or whining from the pump. The pulley to the pump still spins, but the belt is shredded because of a stuck AC pulley.

Yea that's alot of work needing to be done, but for a fixer-upper then probably worth it

Maybe start with these:

Misfire: Yes you need new coil packs & plugs, especially at 240k....but be sure to verify the boots before buying them, as they are NOT interchangeable with each other (black vs brown). Your best bet would be to use Motorcraft/OEM parts, as that system is very particular about tolerances and specs...

Braking & dash lights: Pad & rotors for sure, and more than likely bushings/bearings & wheel hubs as well...since you're going in there for the pads & rotors, it would only make sense to do all this at the same time...

Power steering/AC: not gonna workie without the belt, period. There could some other damage too, like the water pump, alternator etc that rely on the belt...

 

[thunderthot]

Yea that's alot of work needing to be done, but for a fixer-upper then probably worth it

Maybe start with these:

Misfire: Yes you need new coil packs & plugs, especially at 240k....but be sure to verify the boots before buying them, as they are NOT interchangeable with each other (black vs brown). Your best bet would be to use Motorcraft/OEM parts, as that system is very particular about tolerances and specs...

Braking & dash lights: Pad & rotors for sure, and more than likely bushings/bearings & wheel hubs as well...since you're going in there for the pads & rotors, it would only make sense to do all this at the same time...

Power steering/AC: not gonna workie without the belt, period. There could some other damage too, like the water pump, alternator etc that rely on the belt...

Yeah, there’s still a belt but it’s been compromised, half of it was shredded and it looks like it took some wires with it, the wires themselves look like they are held by a bracket on the radiator fan clutch and im not 100% sure what they go to because there’s a plug in the fan clutch but the radiator fan still runs, so I’m wondering if they run across to the power steering? Would anyone be willing to look at theirs and help point me in the right direction? It appears that everything else on the serpentine belt is still spinning and probably functioning except for the A/C.
I ordered a batch of parts for the tune up, brakes, and oil change that should be arriving throughout the weekend and I plan to tackle that once they’re all there, and once I get that out of the way I’ll assess how much I’ll need to replace off the serpentine belt.

Wow! That’s a lot of issues.

aye aye captain