DelMad
New Member
2013 won't start in park or neutral
- Thread starter DelMad
- Start date
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DelMad
New Member
My problems started a few weeks ago. First the Passive anti theft system said it had been activated. After three visits to one garage and one dealership, they replaced the transponder ad reprogrammed the keys and said thr the problem was fixed. $1,000 spent.
The next week it wouldn't start in park. Had it towed to dealership again. It started for them and the couldn't duplicate the problemm. Two days later, same thing. It wouldn't start in park or neutral. Took it to my garage and asked for them to replace the park neutral safety switch. Their technician couldn't duplicate my problem and said it started 100 times in 4 days. Took it home and now 2 days later same problem.
I don't know what to do. It's totally unreliable. Any suggestions?
The next week it wouldn't start in park. Had it towed to dealership again. It started for them and the couldn't duplicate the problemm. Two days later, same thing. It wouldn't start in park or neutral. Took it to my garage and asked for them to replace the park neutral safety switch. Their technician couldn't duplicate my problem and said it started 100 times in 4 days. Took it home and now 2 days later same problem.
I don't know what to do. It's totally unreliable. Any suggestions?
DelMad
New Member
It wouldn't start again this morning but this afternoon it started right up. I can't figure out what is wrong. Any suggestions?
BlackBetty
Full Access Members
Is it possible to have the mobile mechanic come look at it? That way when it doesn’t start the truck isn’t moved, bumped, and jostled back into working condition before being diagnosed.
At your attempt to start it STOP the very moment you notice it’s displaying the typical no-start characteristics you’ve observed over time. That way HOPEFULLY you don’t cycle through the entire issue characteristics of its failed condition. Which hopefully can be observed by a trained technician.
Okay, so what I would also do in the meantime if that’s not an option is look for one of the missing components of what’s needed to start. You’ve got to have sufficient power from the battery to make things do the mechanical and electrical functions. I.e., power to turn starter, power to get fuel flowing, power to fire up the coils, etc.
Once this doesn’t work at the turn of the key try checking for power at a few of the aforementioned places. Try wiggle some wires around. Even if it doesn’t start start I’d still wiggle wires around to see if it disturbs anything as it’s running.
Have you also looked for possible damage to wires from unwanted guests in the engine compartment?
Also, if you have access to a scanner, like Forscan perhaps, you could monitor live feedback to see if there are abnormal high/ low spikes before/ during operation. Let us know what you come up with.
At your attempt to start it STOP the very moment you notice it’s displaying the typical no-start characteristics you’ve observed over time. That way HOPEFULLY you don’t cycle through the entire issue characteristics of its failed condition. Which hopefully can be observed by a trained technician.
Okay, so what I would also do in the meantime if that’s not an option is look for one of the missing components of what’s needed to start. You’ve got to have sufficient power from the battery to make things do the mechanical and electrical functions. I.e., power to turn starter, power to get fuel flowing, power to fire up the coils, etc.
Once this doesn’t work at the turn of the key try checking for power at a few of the aforementioned places. Try wiggle some wires around. Even if it doesn’t start start I’d still wiggle wires around to see if it disturbs anything as it’s running.
Have you also looked for possible damage to wires from unwanted guests in the engine compartment?
Also, if you have access to a scanner, like Forscan perhaps, you could monitor live feedback to see if there are abnormal high/ low spikes before/ during operation. Let us know what you come up with.
Tom Doniphon
New Member
I have a 2010, 95k. About a year ago, the issue I had was it would just crank and not start. It had a faster, higher pitched cranking noise than the usual noise when it starts OK. If I drove 5 miles and then tried to start it up within 10 min or so; it would just crank and not start. BUT if I let it sit for 15 min, it would then start up! I suspected it was a fuel issue. The fuel pump was fairly new, I was going to replace the relay but then the issue went away. It came back a couple of months later and after a week, it went away again. Since I knew how to start the car when this happens, just wait 15 min. The problem always happened when the engine was hot, never in the morning when it was cold. I decided to live with it until it became a hard issue. Hasn't happened for 3 months now.
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JamaicaJoe
Full Access Members
I think you have to press the brake pedal to crank, regardless of park and neutral. Maybe your brake switch is bad? There are two or more brake switches that measure the brake fluid pressure as well as pedal depressed. Are your brake lights working properly? If you spent $1000 at a dealership they owe you a better diagnosis.
JamaicaJoe
Full Access Members
Do you have more than 1 ignition key on the ring? Sometimes PATS gets fooled if you have multiple keys hear the ignition lock.
tommyddsr
Full Access Members
You have neutral safety switch and sometimes when they go bad it gives this same symptom. I would check that first.
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